Which HPDE Brakes?
Pagid RS29 ( Yellow ) for best balance in performance and rotor life. When your rotors need to be replaced ( sooner than you will image or want!!! ) try Girodisc, I've been very pleased with set up. Don't forget to upgrade your brake fluid and bleed frequently. Good luck with your tracking...it's addictive and so much fun.
Your stock brakes with upgraded fluid will be more than adequate. Once you get to the point of turning off the PSM which will save your rear pads (and which isn't recommended until you have adequate experience) and then you begin to experience fade, that will be the time to upgrade. It's quite likely that will never happen in a DE environment (although that depends quite a bit on the track)......which, btw, is the good news. Porsche brakes on the TT rock!! There's lot's of other stuff you can spend you $$ on with far greater effect.
Best,
Best,
PFC01 = anchor being thrown out of your car. Absolutely ridiculous stopping power.
PFC06 = really good stopping power, better longevity, probably better value for DEs.
Get the 01s if you are out to win sprint races... they are nuts
Even in a DE once you're just a little bit past novice phase I don't know how you could get by on stock pads. At our main track here in FL you would probably cook your stock pads after just two laps -- if that.
PFC06 = really good stopping power, better longevity, probably better value for DEs.
Get the 01s if you are out to win sprint races... they are nuts

Even in a DE once you're just a little bit past novice phase I don't know how you could get by on stock pads. At our main track here in FL you would probably cook your stock pads after just two laps -- if that.
Last edited by djben; Aug 9, 2011 at 09:11 PM.
+1. Doing a DE without Synthetic brake fluid a decent wheel alignment defies logic. Although you'll only get 1 deg neg or a touch more it will sharpen the car up and help save the tires a bit. Why some of you guys bother using your street tires, stock alignments and stock fluids for de's is crazy
. R spec tires make such a difference....unless it's raining....plus you don't slaughter your street tires. With 4 de's in front of you invest in a second set of w/t's and save your street w/tires for the street.
. R spec tires make such a difference....unless it's raining....plus you don't slaughter your street tires. With 4 de's in front of you invest in a second set of w/t's and save your street w/tires for the street.
Trending Topics
+1. Doing a DE without Synthetic brake fluid a decent wheel alignment defies logic. Although you'll only get 1 deg neg or a touch more it will sharpen the car up and help save the tires a bit. Why some of you guys bother using your street tires, stock alignments and stock fluids for de's is crazy
. R spec tires make such a difference....unless it's raining....plus you don't slaughter your street tires. With 4 de's in front of you invest in a second set of w/t's and save your street w/tires for the street.
. R spec tires make such a difference....unless it's raining....plus you don't slaughter your street tires. With 4 de's in front of you invest in a second set of w/t's and save your street w/tires for the street.
the physical brake setup of the car is plenty adequate. The limiting factors are the brake fluid boiling over - fix with good fluid like Motul RBF 600/660 or GS610 or Castrol SRF (don't waste your money on ATE Super Blue), lack of tire grip - fix with R compounds, lack of braking technique - fix with experience and coaching. The knee-jerk reaction is always that the car is inadequate, which usually is wrong.
I respectfully disagree with all that say the stock brake pad setup is ok for someone doing DE events. In 1 event my buddies turbo brake fade was extreme and the pads pretty much started to break apart (particles in rim, took off car and inspected and confirmed).
He upgraded to pagid yellows front and rear, stock rotors (not really worth the big jump in price for gyro or brembo, IMHO), RSS steel brake hoses and motul 600 fluid. The car stops 1million % better, and absolutely no brake fade. The new pads do squeek for daily driving but it is something that I guess is based on your preferences. He doesnt really mind the squeaking because the brakes are that much better.
He upgraded to pagid yellows front and rear, stock rotors (not really worth the big jump in price for gyro or brembo, IMHO), RSS steel brake hoses and motul 600 fluid. The car stops 1million % better, and absolutely no brake fade. The new pads do squeek for daily driving but it is something that I guess is based on your preferences. He doesnt really mind the squeaking because the brakes are that much better.
Last edited by dinorocz; Aug 10, 2011 at 08:27 AM.
I respectfully disagree with all that say the stock brake pad setup is ok for someone doing DE events. In 1 event my buddies turbo brake fade was extreme and the pads pretty much started to break apart (particles in rim, took off car and inspected and confirmed).
He upgraded to pagid yellows front and rear, stock rotors (not really worth the big jump in price for gyro or brembo, IMHO), RSS steel brake hoses and motul 600 fluid. The car stops 1million % better, and absolutely no brake fade. The new pads do squeek for daily driving but it is something that I guess is based on your preferences. He doesnt really mind the squeaking because the brakes are that much better.
He upgraded to pagid yellows front and rear, stock rotors (not really worth the big jump in price for gyro or brembo, IMHO), RSS steel brake hoses and motul 600 fluid. The car stops 1million % better, and absolutely no brake fade. The new pads do squeek for daily driving but it is something that I guess is based on your preferences. He doesnt really mind the squeaking because the brakes are that much better.
My whole philosophy used to be "keep modding the car to become faster at the track." I got a wake-up call after taking a few laps with Cass who is the chief driving instructor for the Porsche Driving School at Barber. I chased him for a few laps at one of my home tracks in a 700hp turbo with R6 Hoosiers vs his BONE STOCK 2009 Carrera with street tires, stock alignment, stock pads, 56 psi air pressure! I could barely keep up and was experiencing brake fade, etc.
I jumped out of my car into his passenger seat (no cooldown at all) and noticed his braking technique was completely different than mine. He braked very early and deliberately, then was back on the throttle at corner entry - when I would still be braking. I was probably braking 100% more time than he was. He did this for lap after lap with me and others riding shotgun and never experienced any fade. I had an epiphany at that point - it's not the car!!
ECLU: Agree, with Cass being a fantastic driver and certainly great way to learn riding with him ( he really demonstrates the fine line between "smooth" and what almost feels violent while braking but always keeping the car well balanced and ready to apply power). I would like to know why he was running 56 psi ( hot I assume ) in his tires? Also, IMHO a novice driver should not be running R Comp tires ( and probably not even intermediate drivers ). Street tires will give much more feedback to drivers as they approach their limits and will certainly give much more life.
vpmick the PDS instructors don't bleed off any air in their tires while on the road courses. They drive the cars in the condition you would see right off the showroom. There is no additional "track prep" - that is what Cass and Daniel swore.
I agree that the stock brakes with high temp fluid is good enough for starting out in HPDEs. If you have a very busy DE schedule coming up and the tracks are known to be hard on the brakes then stepping up to a "track" pad would be a good idea. After the first full brake flush with a high temp fluid I like to freshen up the calipers before every event and do a full bleed 1-2 times a year depending on how many events I do.
+1
the physical brake setup of the car is plenty adequate. The limiting factors are the brake fluid boiling over - fix with good fluid like Motul RBF 600/660 or GS610 or Castrol SRF (don't waste your money on ATE Super Blue), lack of tire grip - fix with R compounds, lack of braking technique - fix with experience and coaching. The knee-jerk reaction is always that the car is inadequate, which usually is wrong.
the physical brake setup of the car is plenty adequate. The limiting factors are the brake fluid boiling over - fix with good fluid like Motul RBF 600/660 or GS610 or Castrol SRF (don't waste your money on ATE Super Blue), lack of tire grip - fix with R compounds, lack of braking technique - fix with experience and coaching. The knee-jerk reaction is always that the car is inadequate, which usually is wrong.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ModBargains
McLaren Vendor Classifieds
1
Oct 13, 2015 03:41 PM
ModBargains
Other British Vendor Classifieds
1
Oct 13, 2015 03:40 PM
ECS Tuning - VW
VW Vendor Classifieds
0
Sep 2, 2015 09:03 AM







