The customarily slow, anemic start is a driver fault. So stop blaming the car. Tiptronic has a better take off than the 6sp, but you need to know how to use it.

The steering-wheel has 2 tip buttons, one each side and both has the same function, to upshift and downshift. Next time press - in any tip button and apply some brake boost before take off.

 

Thanks John for the reading tip. My car is NOT starting out in 2nd. I have sports chrono and sport is on. I either drive in manual (so I'm in first) or I put in manual then flip to auto after take off (so 1st then 2nd). If you go past 3500 rpm in auto, the car will then shift aggressively and then start in 1st gear after that. This is all turbo tiptronic 101 and we all know it. My problem (if YOU read the title of the thread you responded to) is that 1st gear sucks. Doesn't matter if you're in manual and run through the gears via the buttons on the steering wheel or throw it into auto, you get off the line slow even in 1st gear. Brake boosting is nice but tough to time and effs up the transmission after a while. My question was if anything can solve the problem of the slow-off-the-line start? Got my answers--ECU tune and new torque converter.

What I have noticed that seems to work, for all you tip owners (and maybe it's just me) that rather than going full pedal down off 1st, if you go 3/4 of the way down on the pedal, you'll get off the line faster, then go floor down afterwards. It seems you'll get a better jump. My 2 cents...

 

Seems that's the cure. Thanks Doc GTO and Salerno!

 

Funny I get off the line fast. Sport mode on. Car in automode. Come to a stop if the car doesn't shift to first, I hit paddle shifter to put the car in first. Hit the gas off the line and the car upshifts quick at Redline. Keep in mind the car is still in auto mode. Its nice to click down a few gears to get up the revs when coming into hard turns so you have lot of power to exit the turns. I don't have my car in full manual that often. The car dose have tune and cargraphic exhaust.

 

MK23... sounds like you got lots of information now. One suggestion I have is some track time. I know you're concerned about the transmission, wear and tear, etc...but it's the best/safest place to get to know your car. Many, if not all, vendors who sell software have tested these cars at the track countless times. Ask them what the threshholds are for multiple trips down the track, etc...Once you learn the optimal launch pattern you'll understand you already have a rocketship, even without a tune...(I like to compare it to a jet taking of a carrier...try and take off without boost and it's likely to fall right off the edge...must get the boost up...that's simply how these are designed.

You may know this already also, when you launch out of 1st, watch for the overboost arrow to appear. You get 10 second intervals of overboost. Soon as the arrow appears release the brake and you're gone. It's tough to do when looking at lights, other cars, etc...which is again why you should go to the track.

 

Thanks PSTT07. Trust me, I'd love to brake boost all the time, I've just been afraid of breaking the transmission. You have a good point though about the track. Have you ever had any problems with transmission or any thing else failing from launching the car like that? How often do you do it? Thanks

 

You're welcome. You car could always have an issue such as a leaking vacuum hose causing the VTG function to work improperly.

I'd pursue all the other avenues before hopping into the higher stall TC. I have 14yrs experience with high stall converters on turbo cars and while awesome for the drag strip, IMO it's an annoyance on a daily driven vehicle. It's one of those catch 22 mods as drive-ability goes down (IMO). Throttle response is considerably worse and it feels just like a slipping clutch as that's pretty much what's happening. Brake boosting will become a necessity for a good launch with a higher stalled TC. The harm brake boosting creates is excess heat. A higher stall TC will noticeable increase tranny temps without brake boosting due to the increased slipping under load. If you control the fluid temps with an ATF cooler and monitor your ATF temps with a temp gauge to know when to allow your tranny to cool, you're good to go. 220+F is bad.

John H

 

Wanted to throw one more thought in that I don't think has been mentioned. You may also want to try a launch with PASM off. This will prevent the computer from stepping, e.g. activating the traction control, on a hard take off.

 

I came across this while doing a google search on brake torquing:

http://press.porsche.com/news/release.php?id=297

Looks like Porsche designed our 997tt's to be launched with brake torquing in mind. I guess a poor-man's launch control With that in mind, it might be safe to assume that you can brake torque your car occasionally. Thoughts anyone??

 

Very occasionally, imagine on M5-M6 clutch fails after a few launches with the factory launch control

 

First gear just plain SUCKS...auto or manual.
Too short...useless.

 

Gear ratio are the same on all 911 NA and Turbo charged?

 

anybody knows or have the same problem? i've 997tt
tuned for around 700hp.have tip upgrade and reflashed tcu module.
on the 98octan fuel runs good
on the vp102 fuel runs good too.
but when running on vp ms109fuel on sport mode the car becomes jumping between 4000-5000rpm .
anybody knows what it is?why this is so?

 

Artem evo - you did 1 too many launches my friend, the clutch packs inside the transmission seem to be fried which is causing slippage. This happened to me at 30k miles with my 700 kit on it (lots of abuse). Is there any Trans fluid leaking? If not its possible your tcu can not be tuned properly.

 

Thanks for your info who sells the Torque Converters and how much?