Yes, its full OEM AWD, only tip modified.

 

very nice! i was planning on running the same wheels as you, can you tell me what the specs are for you wheels??

 

What did you do with the engine to install the rods? Was it done without splitting the case, unbolt the mains and pull the stockers and replace? Or did you do a full disassembly?

 

front 19x8,5 ET 60
rear 19x11 ET 40

 

It was full disassbmling.

 

Guys, i am begining new build for 2014 season. I need your thoughts and advices, help me plz to do the best. Next i will post what i want to do:


1. I want to remove all intake system, only filters on turbos, it will gain faster response and less IAT, now all sucked air from stock airbox goes through 3" intake pipes to turbos and it heated by engine. It still working good, even in 30C but i want to reduce IAT.

2. IPD Push trough Y-Pipe instead of my Switzer intake, any thoughts? Any power gains for me?

3. Turbos. Hard decision, i want to go HTA3786 0.82 AR or PTE6466, target is 1200whp-1300whp on superflow (now 1000whp with gtx3582 0.63AR)

4. Engine. I have decided not to do 4.1ltr, because its not cheap and there is no real street or strip performance numbers, only paper numbers (exept ESmotor cars, but even they not racing much). I will do 3.8ltr with Mahle sleeves and Mahle pistons plus raceware head studs on stock gaskets. Heads will be ported by HeadGames.
Main question is o-ring or not o-ring

5. Fuel. Now i got 2 stock pumps and 1 bosch 044 in tank, they are good up to 1100whp.
I want to change 2 stock for Walbro 400 because they same sizes and will fit stock places plus bosch 044 will be changed to same Walbro 400, new setup will support up to 1500whp. I am doing right with fueling?

6. Exterior. I need to reduce weight, so i need CF roof, CF doors, CF fenders, CF hood. Where to buy? It should be good quality and not overpriced.

7. Interior. There will be roll cage installed, RSS is good? Or GMG? Also car will be stripped, a lot of CF parts inside. All bare metal i will cover by alcantara

 

I am always a big fan of FP over PTE. Call Forced Performance (they designed the HTA compressor wheels) and ask for Robert. If your brave tell him I told you to call . Tell him what you are trying to do, and he'll tell you more than you ever wanted to know about the HTA product line. They have a few interesting options.

 

I would suggest you to wait 20 days more... Ryan will be back to Greece in 20 days. If you want you are more than welcome to come to dyno too..
3.8 to 4.1 is a big difference in cc... I plan to go 2.2-2.3 bar..

 

Love your car, looks impressive! Congratulations!

 

My advice to do evomis head studs , they were much better than raceware , i used them both !!! As fas the gasket i prefer the oring setup with stock oem gaskets !!! Hold boost fine !!! good luck with your build

 

Share my thoughts

My only "concern" with just filters would be the turbos location. Because the turbos are less than 6 inches the ground, you're going to have to be very careful to avoid driving through standing water or damaged filters allowing rocks into the turbo.

Not sure what the diameter of your Switzer piping is, but obviously any reasonable increase in airflow will yield an increase in power.

Ball bearing, billet wheel turbo. The PTE 6466 & HTA 3786/3794 are both great turbos and relatively the same price. I'd recommend speaking with your tuner and seeing what they think is a better pairing in regards to the turbos' spool/reliability/performance and their tuning strategy.

Are you sending the motor back to the states or just the heads? If you're going to do a full build, you could easily send it to Protomotive or BBi since both are more than capable of building the motor to your specs (increased displacement, raised redline, upgraded internals, heads, cams, springs, etc. etc).

Def stay in tank (vs. surge tank). I'm not sure how you're planning on setting everything up and if you're going to stick with traditional Race Gas or E85/E98, but I really like the fuel kit that Undercover Performance recently shared on the forum (https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-released.html). Their Stage 2 fuel kit includes twin Bosch 044s, modified fuel rails, billet fuel pump hat and a variety of injector options. The setup is rated for 1800 WHP on Traditional Gas/1200 WHP on E85, and includes everything you'd need. While it was designed to be used with the ProEFI EMS & 996 Turbo, I'm sure it could be easily modified to your Syvecs/997.

Chances are you're going to have to buy lightweight panels from a race shop, vs. a more appearance focused vendor like Vorsteiner. A quick google gave me this place (https://www.gt-racing.com/products-page/997-parts/), they've got lightweight Fenders, Doors, Hoods, etc.

GMG, OEM RSS, BBi --- Whoever you're going with I'd just make sure they have some racing experience. If you're talking a complete cage, I would just be careful about the bar placement along the headliner. If the metal piping is completely exposed in the interior, it could actually be more dangerous if you were to get in an accident while not wearing a helmet.

 

The problem of your intake is the aluminum tubes, specially the ones in the engine bay

 

Combined with the fat coolers!

 

Thank you very much! any spacers??

 

would you go with 360km/h if you had spacers?! It is way too risky...