I will have to find out the name of the lube, porsche have their own especially for that job so they tell me. I'm going over to their ws on monday for something unrelated but will ask if you need to know but check them first bc they can cause issues and stuttering etc. I checked mine just this week gone by and they are very free to push against the springs so did not need lube. Don't forget with that EP2 and a tune you should be making more power than a stock clutch can really cope with. That would be something high on my list of priorities to address.... How about the coil packs and plug gaps, are these checked and all connected properly? Maybe something there..

 

One of the actuator rods from the VTG is swinging free and not connected. I'll figure out who to blame later, but will try to reconnect. Anyone know how? Space looks tight.

 

It just pops on, both ends.

I know.... "German Engineering".

 

Ok good you chased it down. Check for what made it pop off. They don't come off for no reason. Chances are you have a tight rod so you may need that lube.

 

There was a recall on on the VTG actuator rods. The had to be lubed, or else they'd bind up with the dirt and dust getting in there. You should be able to move them freely and they should move back to the original position. Make sure you check that.

Also, this may be a dumb question, but I was pretty sure that once you updated the software you could not go back to the actual stock tune unless the dealer unlocked the CPU? Anyone know anything about that or am I on crack again?

 

Yes, there was a tsb and recall in 08, they should honor that for you. Yes, there is a special porsche lube that they use as well.

 

Problem Solved


I had my plugs changed at a high end indie. When I picked up the car after the install I immediately noticed a change in the exhaust sound from prior. Power felt different too. After I re-attached the actuator, exhaust went back to the “normal” sound I was accustomed to as well the power (via datalog) went back to stock normal. And no CEL. All my facts and findings seem to point that the indie didn’t re-attach the actuator.


Thanks to the forum for helping me get this sorted!

Pic 1 shows hanging DS actuator arm. Pic 2 w/ arrow shows access to the actuator after pulling off the DS wheel liner. Pic 3 shows a breaker bar pushing the ball end to be joined slightly down, so that the arm can be re-attached. When the ball end is unloaded, the actuator arm is not long enough to reach. When the ball end and the arm were positioned together, I used a long open wrench to apply some sideways leverage to pop the actuator arm back on to the ball end. For those that noticed, the red wire in pic3 is the wire supplied with the EP. I didn’t know what lube to use for the ball/actuator, so I used the ceramic grease provided with the EP. I hope it works ok. Cheers

 

Glad you were able to solve the problem!