are you going to do Oring upgrades to the sleeves ??? to avoide head gaskets issues ???


good luck

 

I honestly don't plan to make more than 800-850whp, I am pretty sure they are okay at that level.

 

Trust me bro , i went with diffrent engine builds ,
Oring the sleeves is way way way better !!
No head gaskets leaking ever , i tried commetic head gaskets , they were bad , 2 times leaking water , issues etc etc !!! When i did Oring my sleeves ! I never had an issue ! 2.0bar all the way !!


Anyway good luck buddy

 

+1 o-ring is the way to go...

 

I have had commetics go bad on anything I have ever put them on. I refuse to use them on anything. Usually stock works the best!

 

Correct Tim also recommends and uses stock, and his car pushes 1250 whp

 

From what I have learned in the 10+ years I have been messing with cars is, unless there is a flaw in the design and is widely known, the factory usually has a better r&d budget than most of the small aftermarket companies. On the supras we run everything stock minutes the studs and they hold up to everything we throw at them without an issue. From my research and it very well may be wrong, but the rods and the head studs are the first weak links to these motors, and they live fine at 800whp while ramping in the boost slowly. I am doing the rods and the head studs because I want to ramp in the boost hard. Make a kit that spool like a mother ****er! 800-850whp max turn it down to 600 and go have fun at a road course. If I really wanted to the kit can fit bigger turbos for more power, and I already have done the main failure points of our engines.

 

Ok try it, but if you fail dont blame us... head gaskets are the major problem in these engines..

 

heads lifting are the problem, stock gaskets with better head studs work great up to a certain point. after that gaskets have trouble.

in the past motors were built with arp's the heads lifted and the gasket failed. so they rebuild the motor with orings thinking that solved the problem only to find out that the heads lifted again with arps.

so then other companies were involved, A1 which evoms uses, Raceware and a few other companies. to keep the heads down.

Arps have worked on some motors but it required machine work and Pinning the arps and retorqueing them to keep the heads down.

dont believe any of that was the head gaskets fault. but a relationship between the stud, the torque values used and the block threads its grabbing

 

head gaskets are NOT the major problems , like OS said, its heads lifting..

 

From what I have seen these motors live fine at 800whp stock, just using a larger turbo to stop the initial "hit" down low shocking and eventually twisting the rods. I want the most power under the curve I can get, thus why I am doing the rods and head studs. I am NOT going to use the ARP's now that I have read up more on them.

 

Good choice man, and your right with the heads held in place these motors live great in those conditions and a decent rod your golden.

 

Nice car!

 

Thank you! Haven't been able to work on it at all the last week between work and trying to get my tenant back in the house that was destroyed before xmas and me driving to NY this friday car might have to sit till early Jan then head first into it!

 

My engine has 1013whp (32psi)on super flow dyno, its like 1150-1200whp on dynojet.
Mods only carrillo rods and apr head studs, not cheap one for 150$
Rest is stock, stock gaskets, stock pistons, stock sleeves etc... Its works perfect, without any issues.

Not so long ago i was at Crete racing on airfield, so we was pushing 38 psi all the way, trought every gear. And one run was on 43.5 psi, but its usseles, turbos was maxed out.

My opinion: If you are going to go for less than 1000whp dont use o-rings, 12mm head studs, 3,8ltr and other not cheap stuff. But if your target is more than 1000whp, go for it.