997 Turbo / GT2 2006–2012 Turbo discussion on the 997 model Porsche 911 Twin Turbo.
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Exhaust install, any ideas for dealing with the turbo side corroded nuts?

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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 09:45 AM
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Just the airbox and intake tubes.

You have to remove the airbox to get to the intake tubes and the O2 sensor connectors.

You have to loosen the clamps on the intake tubes in order to remove the intercoolers.
 
Old Mar 28, 2014 | 09:57 AM
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exhaust nuts

I'm surprised that copper nuts hold up to the torque spec without stripping. I would think high grade stainless steel nuts would be a better option. For penetrating oil I use a 50-50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. An independent lad did a test and this mixture beat all of the major brands. Good luck , Dale
 
Old Mar 28, 2014 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Squat
What did you need to take off on the top? I didnt think you needed to access anything at the top to install an exhaust
He may have removed the airbox to give better access to the O2 sensor lines.
 

Last edited by Domer911; Mar 28, 2014 at 10:48 AM.
Old Mar 28, 2014 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by roybotnik
Silly question but what size are the nuts? I went through a similar problem when I removed my stock exhaust, ended up paying $800+ for a shop to finally get it off. I have new porsche studs and nuts on the car but I would like to switch to nuts that aren't going to weld themselves to the car. Getting a different exhaust pretty soon. Those copper nuts look like a good idea.
The nuts are normal M8 nuts, the bmw copper ones are also "locking" but not in the porsche-welded-stuck way
 
Old Mar 28, 2014 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Domer911
He may have removed the airbox to give better access to the O2 sensor lines.
The airbox and y-pipe removal is simple and gives access to the O2 connectors.

I dont think one have to remove them but it is 100% easier to do so.
 
Old Mar 28, 2014 | 12:14 PM
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Only 26ft lbs of torque so no worries with the copper although I did go stainless
 
Old Mar 28, 2014 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 93ls1rx7
Only 26ft lbs of torque so no worries with the copper although I did go stainless
I replaced the Kline supplied nuts and bolts with stainless, only used the special copper ones for the turbo house.
 
Old Apr 2, 2014 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 93ls1rx7
Only 26ft lbs of torque so no worries with the copper although I did go stainless
Can you give us details of the stainless nuts? Are they self locking like OEM and will they be easier to remove compared to stock?
 
Old Apr 2, 2014 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnny DB
Can you give us details of the stainless nuts? Are they self locking like OEM and will they be easier to remove compared to stock?
Stainless won't rust like regular steel and the rust is a lot of what makes the nut removal difficult. They aren't locking nuts. I also used a liberal amount of anti seize as well. If you are worried about them backing out you can always use a thin lock washer.
 
Old Apr 2, 2014 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 93ls1rx7
Stainless won't rust like regular steel and the rust is a lot of what makes the nut removal difficult. They aren't locking nuts. I also used a liberal amount of anti seize as well. If you are worried about them backing out you can always use a thin lock washer.
Does anti size act as a lubricant and if so did you reduce the torque value?

Any idea why Porsche uses regular steel and not stainless or copper?
 
Old Apr 2, 2014 | 12:36 PM
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They do reduce the required torque value by about 20% from what I understand. I still torqued to 26ft lbs which equates to about 31ft lbs unlubricated so I felt comfortable.

As to why Porsche uses what they use.....not sure. Cost? They don't think it requires anything different?
 
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