Ok but it's the same thing as bad gas or accidentally putting in 89. The car has knock sensors for a reason and it will adjust for it the second it starts. Usually it retards the timing. All fvd is saying is theirs does the same thing.
Just like dropping in 100 isn't gonna cook your cat's before your ecu has a chance to save it.

 

They absolutely have knock sensors for a reason, that doesn't mean we should blow off a good tune. If the ECU was capable of self tuning, everyone would just set max timing and boost and let the car figure it out from there. Unfortunately that's not how it works.

And I have no idea what you're talking about when you mention 100 cooking cats. Regardless, the condition of the cats is the least of my worries.

 

I did not mean to imply that you were doubting anyone's honesty...apologies if my response came across that way. I fully agree with you, baseline + modded figures on as close to same dyno, same day is the way to go.

 

Thanks SpecG. Interesting, I didn't need to upgrade my boost sensors. There were numerous questions after FVD announced their Valentine's Day special about the need to upgrade spark plugs, sensors etc for their tune and Rhonda mentioned that no additional upgrades were necessary.

Maybe Rhonda can chime in regarding your level 2 FVD tune and why upgraded boost sensors were necessary, I'm curious now myself. I'm also curious about what figures your car would generate on a dyno as we both have level 2 FVD tunes...it would be an interesting exercise!

Regarding FVDs programming and sensors, I won't claim to know exactly how it works but I suspect the FVD engineers know the optimal operating range for various engine metrics (e.g., AFR, engine temps, timing etc) and their software constantly monitors these metrics. When the software detects measures approaching unsafe operating levels, it likely compensates by pulling back on boost/timing etc! As a result the engine never fails due to anything FVD re-calibrated. The engine could always fail for numerous other reasons unrelated to the FVD tune though!

 

Catalytic converters melt when you are too hot or rich.
I know how it works you don't seem to. Fvd seems to have this solved and yet you don't seem to think so. You are the one saying pass on fvd because there are others Or take a look at other ones. Ok fine. But don't act like fvd doesn't have a clue because they do. ;D

 

At what PSI did you run?

 

Lol. Just asking for a simple explanation on how the Porsche tuning world works this magic, but others don't seem to. Still haven't gotten one other than a baseless smart *** response from you. We'll agree to disagree.

You may want to read up on how fuel works, especially before writing a retarded response. 100 will make the car run neither hotter nor richer; it's just a waste of money if you aren't tuned to take advantage of it. Leaded gas on the other hand will ruin your cats eventually, but the octane has nothing to do with that.

I'm sure you're just trying to help, but I'd like to hear an educated response from someone else who has a clue how this works.

EDIT: And I never once said "pass on FVD because there are others", or anything else remotely close to that.

 

Is it safe to assume the results would be similar on my S car? FVD tune, EP exhaust with 100 cell cats.

 

I would expect the resulting performance to be almost identical, its the same base car, same tuner, same tune and same exhaust. The only difference is that I have the IPD plenum. You should see very similar gains.

 

fighting those mustang dynos sucks. my stock 997.1TT only made 390/390 on the Undercover Mustang. my 996TT made 1013 there and that took a lot of time and money. dont get hung up on numbers and enjoy your car.

 

To be fair my 501/536 was uncorrected at 69 deg F. Applying the correction factor the wheel HP dropped to something like 485. It was on 91 octane.


It was done at Cobb's SoCal Mustang AWD dyno. Mine was the first 997.2 Turbo S to dyno there. The dyno operator said they dyno'd a lot of GTR's and Subaru's but of course not a lot of Porsche's. Just for reference, the dyno operator said a new GTR would dyno there at 430-450 wheel HP (and has a higher crank hp rating)...so obviously Porsche is very conservative with stock HP rating.


In the end the dyno is just a tool to review a before/after based on changes on mods. If I went back and made 650 wheel with my current mods it wouldn't mean anything to me because in the end, the only thing that matters is how my car compares to another car running head to head in the same conditions.

 

lol really... because I did that to my blown
BMW... the car wasn't tuned for that and I Melted my cats. Yeah a combination of a tune for one gas and I tried to run another higher octane. Keep in mind we are talking modified cars not a stock car. Don't know why it did it but the only thing we did was add 100 Sunoco and in about 5 min I Melted my cats

Please educate me and the ALMS mechanic that built my car...thank good for people like you that know enough to look stupid.

No you came in an fvd thread to mention other tuners

 

Great advice, I plan on doing just that! How are you enjoying the EPL tune?

Agree completely! That said, I bought a Turbo S for the performance (if I were going for looks I would have gone with an '08 F430 or '13 R8 V10). The very thought that something unbeknownst to me (there's no CEL indicating anything is off) might be robbing my car of power was about to drive me nuts! Afterall, I'm the guy who got an ECU tune because I couldn't live with the stock ECU limiting torque output above 4,500 rpm after my plenum install!

Responses from 6Speed members has been great, with the consensus being that all's fine, go out and enjoy the car, which I will!...(I'm looking into the Vbox sport with the iphone app though, if I don't log at least a 2.8 secs 0-60mph time...it's off to the dealer ). Stay tuned...

 

[QUOTE=Squat;4112545] the only thing we did was add 100 Sunoco and in about 5 min I Melted my cats
/QUOTE]

I'm not a mechanic but it sounds like your ECU code had a bug where based on the knock sensor it kept on advancing timing way beyond normal range. Or the mixture went extremely lean. I have never heard of higher octane fuel by itself causing damage of any kind, unless of course it's leaded fuel in a cat-equipped car.

 

[QUOTE=campbellcj;4112731]Actually I was too rich. It was when I tried to fix it I went the other way and blew the motor.
Unburned fuel will light in the cat because of the heat and it melts. If you arent set up for the fuel you are using you can melt your cats
What happened was it couldn't adjust fast enough like you said because of the tune. Obviously a stock motor has more forgiveness built in for gas and the trade off is less power. When you tune you run into issues of bad gas or something the car isn't tuned for causing a catastrophic failure.
That's why ill never get a tune at the ragged edge of power. I'll take a few hp hit to save me the $$ down the road.