Excellent, thanks for the PDF therock88 and confirmation there is no coding Rob, just going to do this right now

 

Just to confirm. This was a doddle, took me maybe 15 minutes and as already said it does not need coding to the vehicle.

 

so i have this exact problem, will the switch replacement fix this? Starter sounds fine, new battery last year, clutch switch replaced a few years back
Just trying to diagnose before i spend the 200 bucks
thanks

 

It's usually one of 4 things:

1, Clutch switch - easy to test, pull the wires and jumper together
2. Ignition Switch - turn and nothing
3. Starter - sometimes fires up sometimes not or nothing
4. Wiring/battery - though the battery should be easy to verify and wiring is less of an issue on the 997's

There may be other things that I don't know about. In my case it was wiring related (trigger wire not secured to starter), but I did the clutch switch test and replaced the ignition switch before digging under the car for the starter. Since a refurb starter and ignition switch are about the same cost I had a 505/50 shot and lost!

Ed

 

Thanks Ed for your reply.


My symptom is if I turn the key once, nothing. Turn the key twice and it starts right up. Clutch pedal to the floor the entire time.


Is this more likely the ignition switch vs starter?
Greg

 

In my case, my estimation it was 50/50 and since the costs were about the same I chose the cleaner of the two, although in retrospect the starter was easier.

So I don't want to lead you one way or the other since the solenoid on the starter could be quirky as well as the electronics of the switch.

Depends if you like working under a car better than under a dash for which way you might want to lean.

Every time I deal with the dash in a car, I'm like, "How hard can that be?" until I'm twisted upside down with the rocker panel pushing my spine in directions it wasn't meant to go.

Ed

 

new battery and new starter and I still get the occasional....turn key and dead car.....turn the key back and try again and she starts right up (at which point my throttle adaptations seem to disappear). I didn't know the switch could be replaced so easily.

 

Bought a new Switch and remove the old pretty easily but how the hell does one get the new switch up and in. More specifically, how do you get it o stay in place while you screw the ring on it? there's hardly any room to get your arm up and behind the the dash to hold the switch in place. Any help would be helpful!

 

I replaced mine a few months back.... it took a bit of wrangling, but I was able to do it. I’m 6’2” and don’t have small hands. It’s a bit tedious, but it is doable. It totally fixed my intermittent starting issue. Good luck!

 

From my thread on doing this work:

"BTW, the space available is quite tight, I had to unhook the brake switch wire in order to get just enough room to do the R&R. I wish the kick panel was 2 piece like my Audi, would have been a breeze if I could have pulled that panel, but looking at what was involved, I decided against trying that."

I remember tying a string to the wiring (I think) to let me reattach it (again I think, it's been a while) but I could not find a write up like I normally do on projects. All I do remember is thinking, next time the seat comes out (and it did when I R&R'd the clutch master and spring).

Ed

 

I got my 8yr old to get it up in there. Best assistant ever!

 

After seeing the components of the switch opened up, I wondered why no one tried spraying some contact cleaner in there. Duh! My ignition switch works again.

 

Mines been doing the same thing for about 2 years intermittently. One shop said, "it's your battery", which was only 1 year old. They said it had a bad cell or two and replaced it with a new one. Problem was gone for a few months and returned. Somewhere else I read these cars need to be on the trickle all the time if not daily driven so I began plugging mine in, that did not solve it. I disconnected the positive and negative terminals and had them contact the body of the car for about 10-15 min. When I did that the problem went away for at least 1 month. Another shop told me to run a test on the clutch pedal next time it happens to rule out the clutch switch so I did and it ruled it out. Based on all the above posts it sounds like it's the ignition switch or starter. The records on the car from the original owner show where a cable/ground wire or similar was replaced by the dealer during his ownership. Car is at 53k miles and is a .1 6 speed with the .2 rear tail light conversion.

 

hey everyone, mine just went bad. won't release the key when I turn off the car. eBay has it for 125 USD. question - should it come with 2 metal key cutouts to replace the old in the key fobs? trying to understand how this works. thanks!

 

the key part is separate from the switch (electronic) part that gets switched out.