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GT2 Failure Codes P0011, P0016

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Old May 19, 2015 | 02:38 AM
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GT2 Failure Codes P0011, P0016

On a Gt2 a friend got the following error codes:

<table border="1" width="100%"><tbody><tr> <td>DME T​OP (D​ME CA​N)</td> <td>1</td> <td>P0011</td> <td>ACTIV​E</td> <td>Verst​ellun​g Ein​lassn​ocken​welle​ Bank​ 1 (S​ignal​ unpl​ausib​el)</td></tr> <tr> <td>DME T​OP (D​ME CA​N)</td> <td>1</td> <td>P0016</td> <td>PASSI​VE</td> <td>Stell​ung K​urbel​welle​ zu E​inlas​snock​enwel​le Ba​nk 1 ​(kein​ Sign​al)</td></tr></tbody></table>
It is not possible to clear those codes.

Is there a diy on how to replace the sensor or can anybode tell me what else we can do?
 
Old May 19, 2015 | 07:35 AM
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The errors you indicate here are the camshaft position errors. The variocam actuator could be faulty, or the camshaft could have spun in the sleeve (that one is not good).

The camshaft spinning in the sleeve is an unfortunate fault with some of these engines and is a big deal. Before I would go the route of replacing and/or pinning them (~$8000 +), I would consider making sure you are running the correct oil, oil level is correct, and/or changing the oil and/or the variocam actuator on that bank.

Search on here and I put some pictures of that process somewhere.

P0016 - Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A)
P0011 - "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)

Good luck!
DC


 

Last edited by therock88; May 19, 2015 at 07:39 AM.
Old May 20, 2015 | 02:21 AM
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Thanks very much for your help.

The car got last year (from the preowner) a new service at a dealership with i think 0w/40.

Should i try 5w/50 or 10w/60?

The car is a summer weekend car, so it will never see cold temperatures.

As you did a lot of diy, can you tell me how bad it is to replace that sensor?

In germany an expert said get of the y-pipe, shield of the coils away, and lower the engine to get access to the sensor.

Can i test in piwis if the sensor is faulty?
 
Old May 20, 2015 | 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by atomicfan
Thanks very much for your help.

The car got last year (from the preowner) a new service at a dealership with i think 0w/40.

Should i try 5w/50 or 10w/60?

The car is a summer weekend car, so it will never see cold temperatures.

As you did a lot of diy, can you tell me how bad it is to replace that sensor?

In germany an expert said get of the y-pipe, shield of the coils away, and lower the engine to get access to the sensor.

Can i test in piwis if the sensor is faulty?
No Problem.

On the oil...0W/40 Mobil 1 (or other high grade) Synthetic is the correct oil.
Make sure you have it filled properly so it is not low on oil.

On the Variocam actuator, you can use my Spark Plug DIY and it will get you good access to them. There is one on each side/bank. You can swap them to test and see if the code changes to the other side. You can also remove and clean them and try that.

I am not familiar with the actual PIWIS / PSTII software, but you test by using real-time monitoring/logging and watch the camshaft angle readings.
As you run the car and fluctuate the throttle you will watch the cam angles on bank 1 and 2 and they should move similarly.

To test the actual actuator, you can simply apply voltage to it while it is out and you should here it click and open up (just a solenoid).

Hope that helps.
DC
 
Old May 20, 2015 | 07:19 AM
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Thanks.

So it is not neccessary to lower the engine?

I can swap the sensor with your diy on the spark plugs?
 
Old May 20, 2015 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by atomicfan
Thanks.

So it is not neccessary to lower the engine?

I can swap the sensor with your diy on the spark plugs?

Lowering the motor a little makes it easier, but not required. It is very easy to do, though and covered in my DIY, but do what you feel comfortable with.


And yes, with the DIY it gets you all the way down to the plugs...once there, you just pull out the actuators ...not the plugs. Also included a picture above of what it looks like and how they come out. Basically two Torx each side and pull them out. You will have a little oil dripping when removed, but not much, and nothing to worry about.


DC
 
Old May 20, 2015 | 09:24 AM
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Thanks very much for your help.

I will change the oil and then buy a new sensor and hopefully it is only the sensor.
 
Old May 21, 2015 | 03:01 AM
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Hi,

could you please tell me what i should order as the dealer has different proposals:

Pos. 19 Hallgeber 92,21 Euro
Pos. 22 Stellelement Nockenwelle 252,13 Euro
Pos. 26 Stellelement Ventil 184,52 Euro
 
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Old May 21, 2015 | 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by atomicfan
Hi,

could you please tell me what i should order as the dealer has different proposals:

Pos. 19 Hallgeber 92,21 Euro
Pos. 22 Stellelement Nockenwelle 252,13 Euro
Pos. 26 Stellelement Ventil 184,52 Euro
The Variocam Actuator/Solenoid is #26 in your diagram.

DC
 
Old May 22, 2015 | 08:21 AM
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Hi,

today i wen to the dealer as i bought some goodies for the oil change.

There the dealer spoke to me and asked regarding this problem that i should change the nr. 19 on the diagramm, as a mechanic thought this would cause the problem.

What do you think and is this maybe easier to change?

When i watch the camshaft in piwis, how many degrees are ok?
 
Old May 24, 2015 | 04:00 AM
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Yesterday after starting the engine we could clear the errors.

After that (or maybe only because of the time elapsed) the car was not so loud.

We made a log and got these datas:



Can anybody help me what this means?
 
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Old May 24, 2015 | 07:00 AM
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The angle will vary as your rpms etc. fluctuate. What you would look for is that Bank1 and Bank2 are relatively in sync. That is, if Bank 1 angle is X, you would expect Bank 2
to be close to X.

From your PIWIS pic (I cannot understand German) the angles look way off, so definitely one cam is adjusting very differently.

On you previous question #19 is the "Hall Sender" 997 606 106 01 and should be about $75 US. If the dealer suggests changing it, then you may want to follwo their direction.

DC
 
Old May 24, 2015 | 11:25 AM
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Thank you.

Do you know how i can change the Hall Sender? - is it possible to do it with your diy on the spark plugs?
 
Old May 24, 2015 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by atomicfan
Thank you.

Do you know how i can change the Hall Sender? - is it possible to do it with your diy on the spark plugs?
Not sure. Never changed that part. The DIY gets you to the plug/actuator area
and you can just go from there I imagine.

DC
 
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