Ok I'm an another victim of blown motor!
PS, Looks like that head was lifting at some point if the picture is not playing games on me. Also given the amount of white on those valves there must have been an oil leak for a while there.
Do as Elite says, log at the track to see how things look when heat soaked under load. Pay special attention to ignition retard on all the cylinders. With a good conservative tune will have prodominatly 0 retard on all the cylinders with just a few -1,-2s, -3s. If you start seeing anything more than that, your tune is too aggressive and you are giving up your margins if something goes slightly awry like some bad fuel, a drop in fuel pressure, etc. Best of luck...
Ok I'm an another victim of blown motor!
Choi again I'm sorry to hear about your situation. It's amazing how personal we take it when our 911 is not healthy. I had my mill out of my car of the last 9 days and it's all consuming. I worked on it in all of my free time and thought about it every moment in between. It sounds that there is a silver lining, the new power plant will be very fresh.
Although Sam has gone over the mill prior to departure from LA, I would still perform a compression test, leak down test, and send the oil out for a spectral analysis.
Do you have plans to pin the coolant lines and replace the oil cooler elbows? I would also put a longer vacuum hose on the FPR and extend the hose onto the hard plastic line an inch or so and zip tie it there also.
Do you have any photos of the spark plugs? Also how were the rods on either side of the firing order of the broken rod?
Again very sorry to hear about your situation.
I'm running the very same set up you were as we speak, very similar components and same map from Sam. I've only got 30 miles on it but it's feeling strong. From the primitive logs everything is looking very good, if anything very rich.
Sam is the man an asset to this community.
Although Sam has gone over the mill prior to departure from LA, I would still perform a compression test, leak down test, and send the oil out for a spectral analysis.
Do you have plans to pin the coolant lines and replace the oil cooler elbows? I would also put a longer vacuum hose on the FPR and extend the hose onto the hard plastic line an inch or so and zip tie it there also.
Do you have any photos of the spark plugs? Also how were the rods on either side of the firing order of the broken rod?
Again very sorry to hear about your situation.
I'm running the very same set up you were as we speak, very similar components and same map from Sam. I've only got 30 miles on it but it's feeling strong. From the primitive logs everything is looking very good, if anything very rich.
Sam is the man an asset to this community.
Cheers guys. I have been speaking with Choi and I can tell the support here has helped him along!
I agree looking from the outside can only tell so much. Do as much checking as you can.
The tune had zero knock ever on the pump map. Even so we stopped for dyno verification and to tune from there. On E85 same deal. Crazy conservative and could even run on pump (with fuel calibrations to compensate from E85 to pump 93) with that timing and boost. Logs were nice at fat with zero knock the night before. Timing when the turbo's ramp was well below stock. I think it comes down to that Cylinder having long term issues and it gave out. That would explain the previous vibrations.
We will analyze the plugs that were in there after the new set up and also have Choi send the injectors out for testing. Man I wish I could see the old plugs and injectors from when the issue started before the latest upgrades.
Hang in there Choi!
I agree looking from the outside can only tell so much. Do as much checking as you can.
The tune had zero knock ever on the pump map. Even so we stopped for dyno verification and to tune from there. On E85 same deal. Crazy conservative and could even run on pump (with fuel calibrations to compensate from E85 to pump 93) with that timing and boost. Logs were nice at fat with zero knock the night before. Timing when the turbo's ramp was well below stock. I think it comes down to that Cylinder having long term issues and it gave out. That would explain the previous vibrations.
We will analyze the plugs that were in there after the new set up and also have Choi send the injectors out for testing. Man I wish I could see the old plugs and injectors from when the issue started before the latest upgrades.
Hang in there Choi!
Last edited by SamboTT@ByDesign; Jul 23, 2015 at 01:19 PM.
Don't mean to hijack...but if you haven't plopped down the cash on that motor yet, I've got a 2008 TT motor sitting in my shop for sale from a customer's car. 17k miles, still runs fine (car was totalled in a front-end crash), probably save you a few grand, and you can keep your blown motor for parts.
The white residue is likely due to all the oil that cylinder was using for some time before the rod finally let go. When lots of oil gets burned in a cylinder, it leaves behind a good amount of soot and ash that gets deposited in the cylinder in the coolest locations... which are the intake valves mostly. Those deposits are also not good for the combustion cycle. They tend to be hot spots and lead to pre-ignition. Also, a decent amount of oil in the combustion chamber substantially lowers the available octane as well. Issues obviously started well before the new turbos went on.
Look forward to seeing her back on the road!
Look forward to seeing her back on the road!
Last edited by A418t81; Jul 23, 2015 at 03:06 PM.
Hey Choi, my advice to you is to stick with Sam. I'm sure everything will be just fine. Like most of the guys said high miles must have effected the blown engine. Hope all will go ok. The white smoke was an early sign but things happen and we learn .
Exactly ! Its another thing doing a pull on the highway and onether thing going eot for a couple of min.
What's up choi...hope you get everything running soon... Would not know how to act if this happened to me....btw I known you've tracked this car before but how many total miles were on that motor...
True , there are supercars out there that doesnt sell with more than 30k miles . But thats doesnt mean 65K isnt high . 65K mile on a high torque engine is a lot . You buy a 65K mile turbo car only because its cheap and you want to rebuild it
This is simply not true. Plain and simple.





