Rear wing Hydrolic failure DIY?
Sorting through options on this myself right now.
Does anyone know how to get the intake shrouds off the engine lid? It just looks like plastic push pins, but they sure are on there tight, and they are smaller than my usual tool for pulling such fasteners.
I just figured out that the 997 pump (part # 997-512-111-03 ~$2500) is amazingly way more expensive than the 996 part (~ $900). This makes not just buying a new one an even more obvious choice.
I'm still trying to sort out what state I'm in exactly. Mine is stuck in the up position, though possibly not all the way up (but close) and completely symmetric. No signs of leaks. Pump runs when the switch is pushed.
Pulling the limit switches didn't change anything, and they look/feel good. Still need to continuity test them.
Does anyone know how to get the intake shrouds off the engine lid? It just looks like plastic push pins, but they sure are on there tight, and they are smaller than my usual tool for pulling such fasteners.
I just figured out that the 997 pump (part # 997-512-111-03 ~$2500) is amazingly way more expensive than the 996 part (~ $900). This makes not just buying a new one an even more obvious choice.
I'm still trying to sort out what state I'm in exactly. Mine is stuck in the up position, though possibly not all the way up (but close) and completely symmetric. No signs of leaks. Pump runs when the switch is pushed.
Pulling the limit switches didn't change anything, and they look/feel good. Still need to continuity test them.
To answer my own question, they are plastic push in fasteners with a center pin that spreads them. My center bits were sheared level with the outside. Fun.
Edit:
They can actually be left in place, prying the other side out by bending the entire duct a little allows them to be pivoted out of the way. This allows the pump to be pulled out. In my case I just unplugged the ground so it would not run anymore. This means that I can drive my car without worrying about creating a leak through over-pressure while I figure out what to do.
My hands were covered in ground up rubber after this. At least now I know what's happened to the tread that's no longer on my tires.
Edit:
They can actually be left in place, prying the other side out by bending the entire duct a little allows them to be pivoted out of the way. This allows the pump to be pulled out. In my case I just unplugged the ground so it would not run anymore. This means that I can drive my car without worrying about creating a leak through over-pressure while I figure out what to do.
My hands were covered in ground up rubber after this. At least now I know what's happened to the tread that's no longer on my tires.
Last edited by MadScience; Aug 18, 2016 at 09:28 PM.
Actually, the OEM prices aren't as bad as I made it out to be, 997-512-111-03 is the entire drive unit, both rams, the pump, plumbing, switches with harness and their cover. Individually the 997 pump seems to be around $1k and the rams $870.
I fixed the leaks once under warranty. Started leaking again out of warranty. I had a shop set program the spoiler to the up position at all times.
No more up and down.
Cost was just the time to reprogram. Could not be happier.
No more up and down.
Cost was just the time to reprogram. Could not be happier.
Do you have part numbers on the separate units?
Here's the breakdown:
http://www.gaudinporscheparts.com/au...t/spoiler-scat
FWIW, their prices seem better than Pelican at the moment.
http://www.gaudinporscheparts.com/au...t/spoiler-scat
FWIW, their prices seem better than Pelican at the moment.
That said, I'm coming around the the eram kit as the long term solution. I should probably look and see what the 996 folks that have had them for a longer time say, but offhand I can't find anything but positive feedback.
I'm still not sure what state mine is actually in, but will probably order the erams rather than get any replacement OEM parts, if I can't get mine going again with a bit of fiddling. Actually, I have enough going on right now that I might even forgo the fiddling and jump directly to a final solution.
I'm still not sure what state mine is actually in, but will probably order the erams rather than get any replacement OEM parts, if I can't get mine going again with a bit of fiddling. Actually, I have enough going on right now that I might even forgo the fiddling and jump directly to a final solution.
Thanks au2bahn. Lots of info here: http://rennkit.com/why-factory-set-fails/
Full story here: http://rennlist.com/forums/996-turbo...iler-rams.html (which proudly is #13 on the list of most views)
Sent you a PM MadScience.
Full story here: http://rennlist.com/forums/996-turbo...iler-rams.html (which proudly is #13 on the list of most views)
Sent you a PM MadScience.
Thank you DaveCarrera4S!
I have a remaining bit of curiosity, which is more academic that anything:
Am I adding or subtracting value by going with the eram? For a driver quality car it seems like an obvious plus. I suppose the answer is that these just aren't rare enough that anything but a time-capsule example will ever be anything but a driver...
I have a remaining bit of curiosity, which is more academic that anything:
Am I adding or subtracting value by going with the eram? For a driver quality car it seems like an obvious plus. I suppose the answer is that these just aren't rare enough that anything but a time-capsule example will ever be anything but a driver...
I love this question MadScience. Seems to me that the follow on owner will be more thrilled with a well thought out upgrade to the system and a working wing, especially if it is the higher extension kit. Remember, wing down it looks exactly the same. I also recommend owners bag up (in a spill-proof container) the old system and store it in the corner of the garage. Offer it to the next owner - in case he wants to screw around and install it and try to get it working. Seems that when valuable cars sell, if there are a few OEM parts in the trunk, that helps quell any fear that the next owner is not getting exactly what rolled off the assembly line. Whether they reinstall the stuff or not. Sometimes it doesn't matter - my last car, a Carrera 4S, had an aftermarket front bumper, carbon fiber mirror protectors and was lowered with 997 Turbo II wheels. Guess what - I sold it at the top end of the price range. Perhaps the best example - if you were in the market for a 996 Carrera (like my friend is) - would you want it without the IMS bearing upgrade? I wouldn't. I doubt anyone would squeal "but that isn't OEM". Sorry but OEM was a poor design...
Thank you DaveCarrera4S!
I have a remaining bit of curiosity, which is more academic that anything:
Am I adding or subtracting value by going with the eram? For a driver quality car it seems like an obvious plus. I suppose the answer is that these just aren't rare enough that anything but a time-capsule example will ever be anything but a driver...
I have a remaining bit of curiosity, which is more academic that anything:
Am I adding or subtracting value by going with the eram? For a driver quality car it seems like an obvious plus. I suppose the answer is that these just aren't rare enough that anything but a time-capsule example will ever be anything but a driver...
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