Upgraded gaskets and studs.
Thank you. Which brand of studs.
I had my eye on the EVOMS Hellfire gaskets and 10mm studs. But looking for alternatives.
I believe that the 12mm stud needs a "drill and tap" procedure. I think SRM may have made an alignment device to aid on this.
I guess the real question is, does the 10 mm stud truly need re-torquing after their first heat cycle and/ or does the 12mm solve it? Also, what pressure levels will the 10mm withstand and has anyone experienced failure with this diameter?
Thinking "outside the box" here? Is it the diameter of the stud, or is it the actual material used to create it the limiting factor regards to heat strength. Their are different grades of alloys and heat treatment cycles that can enhance the stud strength.
I couldn't find much on Cometic Gasket for Porsche. Krazy, do you have link?
In the end to my post, I know where your heading Nick, and I look forward to it!
I guess the real question is, does the 10 mm stud truly need re-torquing after their first heat cycle and/ or does the 12mm solve it? Also, what pressure levels will the 10mm withstand and has anyone experienced failure with this diameter?
Thinking "outside the box" here? Is it the diameter of the stud, or is it the actual material used to create it the limiting factor regards to heat strength. Their are different grades of alloys and heat treatment cycles that can enhance the stud strength.
I couldn't find much on Cometic Gasket for Porsche. Krazy, do you have link?
In the end to my post, I know where your heading Nick, and I look forward to it!
SRM, You recommend the Cosmetic (still unknown) and,
http://www.evoms.com/High_Performanc...p/evhsk-10.htm
or
http://www.evoms.com/Porsche_Turbo_H...enghg996tt.htm
http://www.evoms.com/High_Performanc...p/evhsk-10.htm
or
http://www.evoms.com/Porsche_Turbo_H...enghg996tt.htm
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I don't disagree with you. But I do like to do my research and I do like to know why certain parts are chosen etc etc. I don't like to just be told use this part it's the best end of. I like to know why is it used instead of xyz etc etc
GTRNICK - Just remember to take opinions and hear-say with a grain of salt, as most of the replies you are getting come with zero first hand experience. You have a list of reputable shops with track records to ask, some of which were already mentioned,
EVOMS
BBI
SRM
PROTOMOTIV
ES MOTOR
EVOMS
BBI
SRM
PROTOMOTIV
ES MOTOR
yeah I remember Cometic from my Honda days....15yrs ago
I believe that the 12mm stud needs a "drill and tap" procedure. I think SRM may have made an alignment device to aid on this.
I guess the real question is, does the 10 mm stud truly need re-torquing after their first heat cycle and/ or does the 12mm solve it? Also, what pressure levels will the 10mm withstand and has anyone experienced failure with this diameter?
Thinking "outside the box" here? Is it the diameter of the stud, or is it the actual material used to create it the limiting factor regards to heat strength. Their are different grades of alloys and heat treatment cycles that can enhance the stud strength.
I couldn't find much on Cometic Gasket for Porsche. Krazy, do you have link?
In the end to my post, I know where your heading Nick, and I look forward to it!
I guess the real question is, does the 10 mm stud truly need re-torquing after their first heat cycle and/ or does the 12mm solve it? Also, what pressure levels will the 10mm withstand and has anyone experienced failure with this diameter?
Thinking "outside the box" here? Is it the diameter of the stud, or is it the actual material used to create it the limiting factor regards to heat strength. Their are different grades of alloys and heat treatment cycles that can enhance the stud strength.
I couldn't find much on Cometic Gasket for Porsche. Krazy, do you have link?
In the end to my post, I know where your heading Nick, and I look forward to it!
Hearsay? I am assuming this is directed at me so I'll direct this at you. You built a handful of them and had dahlen's pulled how many times now and that's after you had 'experience' on yours? Explain what's really wrong with OEM headgaskets and racewear studs, or at least try what I said first, and I'll tell you why you shouldn't use extreme hardness material studs here that can damage the cylinder head as they virtually have zero stretch at all. Check what the heads look like after some longer mileage. I've been around diesels for 25 years seeing them make cylinder pressures you'll never see on this motor. I've first hand seen studs that 'held' those heads in place. If there are any studs I'd overtorque it'd be the Racewear ones to 85ft-lbs and I'd stay with the OEM headgasket as there's absolutely nothing wrong with using it and they're plenty strong. If your tune is garbage or you detonate due to some other issue engine builders tend to pick on things like this to save their *** for poor workmanship. Oh! You used the OEM gasket and not Cometic? Oh! You used 10mm studs? You should've gone 12mm! Meanwhile this hardware is least to blame in most cases by far.
tim941nyc only uses 10mm . how he does what he does is a secret he chooses not to divulge. that being said theres enough 10mm studs lifting to make someone think twice before using them
as for darrins build no matter how many times the motor was pulled not a single time was it for a stud lifting or pulling the cylinder threads. in fact evoms lays claim that they havent lost a single motor due to the studs lifting since they went to 12mm.
ask your engine builder if this method is so great why are they letting the heads sit overnight? due to settling? then why overtorque and not use the stud manufacture spec'd torque? because they loosen up thats why. your builder is way overtorquing the studs in hopes that when they back out they will still be within spec
Last edited by 32krazy!; Oct 5, 2016 at 01:29 PM.
This is good info thanks 32Krazy.
ill chime in here. i contacted racewear directly and never did they ever recommend 865 ft/lbs on their 10mm studs. in fact they will only recommend a second retorque as part of their procedure. 60 ft/lbs max. this was only after numerous studs let go at the original 45 ft/lbs they used to want the studs torqued to. i have layinbacks motor with 10mm racewear studs and BOTH sides were lifted after less than 10k miles and 800 rwhp. he chose not to do a retorque. as for head gaskets strock is fine. i went 3.8 and chose the cometics based on evoms history with them and 12mm studs. at 90 ft/lbs theres no retorque needed so the cost is offset by not having to pull the motor twice and replace gaskets for the retorque.
tim941nyc only uses 10mm . how he does what he does is a secret he chooses not to divulge. that being said theres enough 10mm studs lifting to make someone think twice before using them
as for darrins build no matter how many times the motor was pulled not a single time was it for a stud lifting or pulling the cylinder threads. in fact evoms lays claim that they havent lost a single motor due to the studs lifting since they went to 12mm.
ask your engine builder if this method is so great why are they letting the heads sit overnight? due to settling? then why overtorque and not use the stud manufacture spec'd torque? because they loosen up thats why. your builder is way overtorquing the studs in hopes that when they back out they will still be within spec
tim941nyc only uses 10mm . how he does what he does is a secret he chooses not to divulge. that being said theres enough 10mm studs lifting to make someone think twice before using them
as for darrins build no matter how many times the motor was pulled not a single time was it for a stud lifting or pulling the cylinder threads. in fact evoms lays claim that they havent lost a single motor due to the studs lifting since they went to 12mm.
ask your engine builder if this method is so great why are they letting the heads sit overnight? due to settling? then why overtorque and not use the stud manufacture spec'd torque? because they loosen up thats why. your builder is way overtorquing the studs in hopes that when they back out they will still be within spec
the thing to look at is quality of the products and how the engine builder is using the product. call john bray at evoms. dont think many on here will put doubt in his ability as an engine builder. call racewear and ask them what they want for a proper install. call todd at protomotive. ask him.one of the best engine builders in the country if not the world. in the end you have to put your faith in the person you choose to build the motor. i saw firsthand what happens when the heads lift. imo i didnt want to risk that agin after spending 20k$ on building the motor. looking at yumerivicks build vr6tee blackhorseturbo and others and the materials sean used in his motor darrins motor and a host of other motors he has built led me to choose the products he recommended. i had 10mm sitting on the shelf. i chose to wait close to 3 months for a set of 12mm studs from evoms because i felt the cost benefits and the simple size difference was worth it. made sense to me that increased thread count and circumference of the stud would handle anything i threw at it.look at supra motors. capable of 2000+ hp and they run 12mm. regardless of who makes the stud if the thread count is a fixed amount and the bolt is built to stretch then overtorqueing it by almost double the initial specs isnt a reasonable answer to fixing a problem.
Here is my install:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-thread-6.html
Def check out the bit I wrote on angle torqing. For the stock studs the manual calls for 20 ft lb torque plus 90 degrees, so there is presidence for it.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-thread-6.html
Def check out the bit I wrote on angle torqing. For the stock studs the manual calls for 20 ft lb torque plus 90 degrees, so there is presidence for it.
Last edited by brnrdtns; Oct 5, 2016 at 05:37 PM.




