I have recently come around with a Porsche 911 Turbo S manufactured of 2010. I am deep serious to go ahead and make the purchase, however I have some doubts.

The thing is the car has just gone 200 km since it left the factory and mainly was stored in a closed parking lot. What kind of problems should I expect in this particular situation?

The second issue is I am curious what kind of problems usually a 911 Turbo S (2010) have? What should I take into account? What are the most vulnerable parts within the car?

I would be extremely glad if you help me out. Would be happy for any additional tips.

I believe you'll have more luck in the 997 Turbo forum.

Hi Z. Interesting. Depends where it was stored and the climate I guess. It will definitely need to be gone through. I would have a dealership give it attention if the seller agrees.

Good luck and let me know if you need some connections in AZ

Did Porsche make a 2010 Turbo S? 2010 Turbo, yes. I thought they didn't come out until 2011.

He is in Azerbaijan not Arizona......

These cars are bullet proof reliable but I'd be sketch buying a car that hasn't been driven for years unless it was towed to a dealer and then they went through a factory procedure to change all fluids and stuff like that.

Turbo S came out in 2011

Thanks, thought so. I also did some research and discovered they were released in May 2010. Perhaps as a 2011.

These cars do not like to sit unused. Seals and such shrink and leaks happen. For instance (my experience after buying a low miles 2003 996 Turbo in 2009): transmission selector shaft seal; RMS; water pump; front diff axle flange seals; spoiler hydraulics; radiator leaks; and the rear view mirror. (Bought a new one and 25.5 months later the replacement mirror is leaking. Sigh.)

The transmission selector shaft seal leak was covered by CPO warranty and a new transmission was installed.

The other leaks I had to have fixed out of my pocket. These leaks all occurred *after* the 2 year 100K mile warranty expired on time and after I had added around 40K miles to the car's initial 10K miles.

The RMS, water pump, and so on all appeared after 100K miles. The radiator leaks appeared at 130K miles.

If you buy the car you have to be prepared to deal with these.

Besides the possible leaks the car is still new and because it (I assume) doens't have any warranty you will be responsible for any new car problems.

Again in the case of my Turbo, from when I bought it to when the warranty expired the car needed a new shifter (the factory shifter broke); the aforementioned transmission selector shaft leak; new clutch accumulator/slave cylinder (a common failure for this model of car); new radiator fan motor -- the shaft snapped! -- and a new radiator (damaged from when the shaft snapped and the fan hit the back of the radiator); new idler/roller tensioner bearings.

Not every new Turbo will manifest the above but you need to be aware of what might happen.

Last if you pay a premium for the low miles expect this premium to evaporate as you drive the car.

While I'm not necessarily against a low miles car one needs to consider the bad with the good. The problem is the seller is going to assume low miles means big premium in price although this doesn't always happen. I bought the used Turbo at around $5K under the dealer's asking price and paid less than half the car's new price of $119K with just 10K miles on the car and a 2 year 100K CPO warranty included.

All you can do is give the car a thorough used car check out.

My recommendation is you visit the car cold and after verifying all the warning lights come on with the key on verify they all go out after the engine fires and begins to run.

Let the cold engine idle as you walk around the car looking the body panel fit and finish. Check the tires, and the date code. If original the tires are due to be replaced on time. If the tires are original I'd be a little leery of a test drive for fear of a tire failure or a loss of control due tires no longer able to manfest the necesary level of grip.

After letting the engine idle a while -- minutes -- and hearing no scary sounds then have the seller take you on a test drive. The route should be around 15 miles or so and chosen to allow the driver to demo the car as you intend to drive the car. A mix of city stop/go, boulevard and highway driving with once the engine is up to temp a couple of hard accelerations.

After the test ride back at the starting place switch seats then drive the car over the same route and the same way.

You must experience the car in its natural state: engine running and the car on the road.

After your test ride/drive then give the car a thorough used car check out.

Assume nothing works until you confirmed it does. From lights to spoiler. From moon roof to the front and rear lid latches.

If the seller can't produce paper work showing the oil was changed yearly, the brake fluid was flushed/bled every 2 years, if the tires are past their change by date, all of those are negatives. Up to you but if you get the car get the price adjusted for these services and then have them done.

lol sorry I didn't catch that! I have some colleagues in the Middle East as well that we work with, let me know if I can help.