997 Turbo / GT2 2006–2012 Turbo discussion on the 997 model Porsche 911 Twin Turbo.
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2007 997.1 No start - No crank

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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 01:39 PM
  #16  
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So...... cleaned the car up very nice yesterday, drove it around a bit, no issues. Took it out today to ref a couple of games at different rinks, stopped to get gas, get home, turn it off. No start.

So I am sourcing a starter and will do that job next. I will add my old switch to my good used parts pile.

I also have to deal with the clutch slave (disappearing PS fluid) and would like to do both at the same time, but I am not sure which way I want to go, GT2 conversion or just pull the coupler and replace the slave. Decisions, decisions.

Ed
 
Old Feb 10, 2018 | 11:32 AM
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Update:

2 things:

1. When I went to pull the starter, I undid the 13mm nut and pulled the 3 large wires and off came the trigger wire from the smaller post. It had no nut on it.

2. When I started to install the reman starter, it was a different size (the windings/motor section was longer), so I checked and it is for a '90 - '98 3.6, not the 997 series

So, 2 more things:

1. I think the starter is OK and I would like to know who pays so little attention to detail they don't secure connections to a part (my guess is the part was replaced unless the 9mm nut tends to come off - which would be a first on any car I have owned)

2. I have to send the improper starter back and depending on what I decide on #1, maybe not re-order the correct one

A non existent nut on the solenoid trigger falls well into the possible explanations for an intermittent and random starter failure. Unfortunately, I should have gone for the dirty job (R&R the starter) before doing the cleaner one (R&R the ignition switch) and saved myself $180 and 2 hours of time. Of course if I choose to re-install the original starter with a nut on the trigger wire, I still may have a problem, but my gut tells me I have found the issue.

My guess is that this will be a first for any 997 owners out there and is a perfect example of why I like to do as much of my own work as possible.

Ed

PS: No sign of PS fluid on the transmission - maybe steering rack is leaking? Have to check there next.
 
Old Feb 10, 2018 | 12:32 PM
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Good job. Sometimes you just hv to take things apart to figure it out.
 
Old Aug 18, 2018 | 12:19 PM
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Ed,

I too am having starter issues on my 997 TT. I also did the whole remove the intake plenum/etc and stopped when there was no way a starter was back there. I can't find ANYTHING after searching for hours for help on where the 997 turbo starter is and how to replace. Do you have any pics and/or info you can share on the topic?

Mike
 
Old Aug 18, 2018 | 01:02 PM
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It is under the car, passenger side above the rear axle. I have attached a doc that I used to help with the removal. Start with the actual work on page 5 for the manual transmission (if that is what you have). Pay attention the routing of the wires to the starter. I was able to wiggle it out and in without too much trouble.

I have another one that shows similar information, so let me know if this one is not enough.

Ed
 
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
WM 276019 R&I starter Turbo.pdf (1.01 MB, 139 views)
Old Aug 18, 2018 | 01:39 PM
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Thank you Ed. This information is impossible to find so I really appreciate it. I have tried to download some manuals at emanualonline but they done cover this stuff. I think this will give me what I need. Seems so much easier than the 997 carrera models.

Mike
 
Old Aug 18, 2018 | 04:12 PM
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Yep, unlike my Audis, where there is a ton of information either in FAQ's on forums or through Bentley for manuals, not so much for the Porsche.

Ed
 
Old Sep 1, 2018 | 12:10 PM
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any luck with your issue? I m running into the same problem. based on my research, I m thinking its the alternator-starter-battery harness on my 997.1 which is to blame. would like your input on this too.





yellow one
 
Old Sep 1, 2018 | 12:26 PM
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My issue was a non existent nut on the trigger wire on the starter.

Unless you have obvious corrosion or some other sign of damage, my research says the wiring on the 997 is not normally suspect.

My order of work was:

1. Ignition switch
2. Starter

If either of those didn't solve the problem I would look at the wiring.

I did the ignition switch because I thought it would be easier and cleaner. It was fiddly and time consuming, but it was cleaner than dealing with the starter. based on cost it is a 50/50 proposition.

If I were to do it again, I would start with the starter since it is relatively easy to get to.

What are youre symptoms?

Ed
 
Old Sep 1, 2018 | 12:46 PM
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let me give you some background, I replaced my started couple of years ago (used OEM Bosch one). also use the battery tender when car is not in use for a few weeks. my car battery looks in good shape. light intensity is good in the interior.
1. month ago, I turned the key, and car didn't start. did it a few more time and started.
2. couple weeks ago, while I was not at home, car refused to start (no depress clutch message on the dash). I was stuck in car for almost 10 minutes before it started again.
3. yesterday after work, car didn't start. even giving it a jump but no luck. I would have to get the car towed now. didn't push start the car as I didn't have the help. interior lights look bright - which makes me think battery isn't to blame.

starter is easier than the ignition switch? in my opinion it was a huge pain in the @ss when last time it was replaced. but in all honesty, the guy I used didn't know about Porsche which I learnt later on.
 

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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 08:21 PM
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In your case, assuming the starter is good, go for the ignition switch, again, unless you see some signs of problems with the wire (what portions you can see).

Alternatively there are ways to test the wiring using resistance, which I have never attempted to do, if you want to rule that out first. I do not remember how much the wiring harness costs.

Ed
 
Old Sep 5, 2018 | 06:33 PM
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yeah I might have to look into ignition switch now.
I shorted the clutch switch wire. car still didn't start. also depress clutch message on the dash was gone while the clutch was not pressed - which makes me believe that short did work.
by the way, if I connect tender to my batter all the time, does it mean my battery can't be the culprit?
 

Last edited by mzsaad; Sep 5, 2018 at 06:34 PM. Reason: wrong words
Old Sep 5, 2018 | 06:44 PM
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by the way, the pdf that you posted, would it work for non turbo? I believe you have a turbo. I have a standard 4s.
 
Old Sep 6, 2018 | 10:51 AM
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I do not know. That was information specific to the 997.1 TT. Your starter could be up on top the engine behind the throttle body.

As far as the clutch switch, unless there is a problem with your display, if it does not show the message with the switch hooked up normally, that is most likely not your issue. However, it is easy to jump the switch to test as you have done.

Again, unless you got a bad starter, my inclination would be the ignition switch, however with things like this, unless you know absolutely the starter is good, that can also be the problem.

My normal approach is based on a combination of cost and labor pain, and as I have said the cost of both items is about the same (rebuilt starter with core charge vs. ignition switch) but looking back, for me at least, replacing the starter was easier since reaching behind the dash to deal with the ignition switch while laying upside down and half hanging out of the car wasn't much fun.

Your situation could wind up being the exact opposite of mine (stupid starter issue - missing nut vs. bad ignition switch). I do not know of any way to test the ignition switch, though there are write-ups on testing the starter when off the car.

Ed
 
Old Sep 10, 2018 | 01:27 PM
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Ed, want to provide you an update.
I took my car to my indy on a flat bed. while there, the car started every time.
my indy checked that the battery was charging while car was turned on. also battery had enough juice.
he had a quick visual of the starter and he didn't see any rust.

however he mentioned that with the key just half inserted, the key would turn in the ignition switch (even though car didn't start).

now the problem is not presenting itself while its with the indy but I m starting to think that switch is to blame? your opinion?
 


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