Had a couple of times (once at the dealer for inspection) where the key turn would not result in any cranking. After a few tries (giving the appearance of a possible clutch switch issue) it would start. In the middle of this I replaced the battery as it was tired.

Happened 3X total, with the third time being the last. Luckily it's a MT, so a couple of Zam drivers helped me push start it and got me home without a tow.

Reading about the issue, I have seen 5 things:

1. Starter
2. Starter wire
3. Clutch Switch
4. Battery
5. Ignition switch component

The battery is brand new and everything fires up & the cranking was fast and normal prior to it not turning at all. I will check voltage, but I am not expecting any surprises there since 2 of the 3 no starts were on the old battery.

I have pulled the clutch switch wires and jumped them together with no change in the problem (confirmed they were jumped by un-jumping them and seeing the Engage Clutch message on the dash).

I am about to test the starter wire (looking for a bit more detail on that test) since I have seen reports of issues with that wiring harness and the connection points becoming corroded. Engine "looks" clean, so I am not suspecting that, but you know the way things work sometimes.

If I show current to that wire, then I am ordering a starter, unless anyone has any suggestions for me.

Thanks,

Ed

 

Quick update:

For all turbo owners, the starter is NOT on the top of the engine. Almost all of the research I did (including a call to my SM - the tech was tied up) said top middle, but when I got the Y-Pipe and the air box out of the way, I could tell something wasn't right.

A couple of helpful posts by Kevin and 07silverturbo on Rennlist got me pointed in the right direction, and based on Kevin's reference to other models, I was able to find a doc from some official Porsche manual (boy, finding Porsche repair info is infinitely harder than Audi) that detailed the 997 TT starter location and R&R instructions.

During that call to the dealer, they felt it was Clutch Switch, but I went back and used my jumper wire rig and confirmed the Depress Clutch message would appear and then go away when I jumpered the microswitch's wires. I am not sold it is the starter yet, and the tech (he was available today and apologized for the dealer leading me down the wrong path - they are really good guys) said both the starter and the alternator - starter wire are not usual problems on this car.

There are two other places to look:

1. Wire from battery to a electrical component block near the firewall inside the car
2. Ignition switch - however since all the lights and dash stuff works, including cutting off the air when turned to start - they felt that might not be the issue

So at this point, who knows, but I will follow a step by step run through to check each item along the way:

1. Make sure I am getting voltage at the starter and there is no voltage drop.
2. If no voltage, check the wiring from the battery to the component block as well as a couple of fuses that are there
3. If voltage and no drop, R&R the starter
4. If no voltage and the wiring/component block check out, R&R the ignition switch

Hopefully one of the above gets me back on the road. I am open to any other suggestions and I will update once this is resolved.

Ed

 

Now I have a challenge, went to move the car over to the other garage to get it in the air, and for kicks & giggles I tried to start it. It did. Cranked right up nice & strong.

So, I will check what I can, but until the problem appears again, I will not get a chance to troubleshoot, so it may be a bit before I have an answer.

I would much rather have it not starting at all.

Ed

 

I had this same issue with my 996, I switched out the ignition switch and problem solved.

Probably the quickest ​​​​​​and easiest item to replace in the entire starting system.

 

Replace the starter that’s your problem

 

Yep, both of those are on my list, question is to do which one first. The 997 ignition doesn't have that extra plastic electronics piece like the 996 (and my '95 Audi S6), so it's about the same cost as the starter (rebuilt).

Question to both:

Mptolomey: When the switch was having trouble - did the dash lights, A/C and other stuff come on like normal with the only abnormal thing being turn the key and nothing? Then sometimes the switch would work as normal?

y996t: Did the starter sometimes work and then not work?

Thanks,

Ed

 

I had the same symptoms, random non start, usually at the most inconvenient times.

I manually activated the starter to eliminate that which pointed me right to the switch.

Yes, the dash lights and accessories worked, just the start function didn't.

Hope this helps.

 

I have had a similar issue my car (07 turbo) it has not started twice this week and is currently at the dealer. I put the key in and all the lights come on has power etc just no noise or crank anything. and yes the clutch switch has been replaced. I have seen a random "steering wheel lock malfunction" code a hand full of times but has always started. And of course both the times it gets to the dealer and has been sitting for a couple days it cranks right up and they cant find anything wrong very frustrating. I had a new pioneer head unit installed a month ago. I assume its not that since a new head unit is a pretty basic install. They have plugged it in to see if any codes pop up and of course there is nadda. Any ideas? thanks!!

 

A new clutch switch may not fix the problem if the switch bracket or clutch pedal arm is out of position -- due to being bent or from some wear -- and not fully pushing the clutch pedal switch plunger down far enough.

When this was suspected in my Boxster the tech would work the clutch pedal furiously a few times then start the engine. In every case the engine started. After this I had him replace the ignition switch.

If the clutch switch is not suspected, you can try to cause the symptom by with the ignition key removed from the ignition inserting the key then turning the key to the on position then to the start position while concurrently wiggling the key.

The idea is to give the ignition switch a chance to not make good contact. Nothing you can do at the switch should affect the function of the key to cause it to fail to make all necessary electrical contacts.

If the symptom is occurring then try the same technique. If you find you are able to get the engine to crank/start this strongly suggests the problem lies with the ignition switch.

If you can get the car to start with this technique the odds are the igntion switch is bad.

Last but not least, the "steering wheel lock malfunction" code is of course a pretty strong clue, at least in the case of your car, there's something amiss with the ignition lock.

 

Good to know I will have the tech try that tomorrow since he had to drive the car home tonight and try to duplicate the issue :/. The steering wheel malfunction code wasn't on at all this time. I have seen that come and go a handful of times, strange. I hate to throwing parts at wheel lock and its not the issue and turns out to be the ignition switch. Cant wait too see if that key trick works tomorrow, hate these kind of issues wish the car would give me a code so I can pin point it would be nice thanks for info!

 

Any up date on the starting problem

 

Car continued to start every time I wanted to drive it (round trips with no shutting down) while I waited for my Ignition Switch to arrive. During one trip I had to get gas and automatically turned it off, and to my horror, it wouldn't start. I had a slight slope to the rear, and as I pondered roll starting it to the rear, gave it one more try and it started.

I have a couple of car related things to do on two other vehicles (snow tires & oil changes) and then the 911 will roll over to the other garage to get the ignition switch replaced. Once that happens, the wait to see if it happens again begins (with my stops on hills with the nose pointed down)!

I will update when that happens.

Ed

 

Oh ok I have the same problem know too I am going change the starter and see if it solve the no cranking problem, the only thing that I thinks it’s my starter because I am hearing the clicking noise and I keep Cycling lucky that it starts I will keep you posted

 

Those problems that can't be recreated every single time are a pain in the butt. I would thing it is some sort of short, but with starting issues, who knows.
I have had to replace the battery in my car 3 times thus far...not too bad I guess for a car that is almost 11 years old...lol.

 

Update: I installed a switch as the first step in solving this issue, and so far after 4 starts/stops the vehicle has started each time. Obviously I need more attempts to confirm this, but the last go around prior to replacing the switch, the car would no re-start almost every time after a 20 - 30 minute drive.

Fingers crossed. Will update again if it fails and I move to R&R the starter.

BTW, the space available is quite tight, I had to unhook the brake switch wire in order to get just enough room to do the R&R. I wish the kick panel was 2 piece like my Audi, would have been a breeze if I could have pulled that panel, but looking at what was involved, I decided against trying that.

Ed