More problems-997.1 turbo pink fluid leaking and loud whining sound
#31
01-06-2018, 03:43 PM
Thanks for the excellent reply. Notice the center of my tensioner pulley has threads but no bolt in the center of it. Is this normal? Thanks for tip on power steering pulley.
No, only the center pulley is tension, the others are idler pulleys. Any of the three can be making noise. The tension is released by rotating the 24mm bolt at the center of the tensioner pulley clockwise. Idler and tensioner pulleys can definitely generate noise, but so can any rotating part of the serpentine system. PS pump is far right silver wheel. Center black is the AC Compressor.
When you loosen the tensioner pulley you will need to make sure you know where the belt is routed BEFORE you do this. If you are going to remove the belt, mark it with an arrow in the direction it spins so you replace it the same way it came off.
The fitment is pretty tight, so it is unlikely it will come off the crank pulley unintentionally. In some of the write ups I have seen, people will loosen the bolts on the PS pump before loosening the tension and then remove that pulley once the belt tension is removed to make R&R'ing the belt easier.
In most write ups the order of placing the belt back on starts from bottom left to the right and ends on the top left with the alternator second to last and the idler below it last.
IT may be a little fiddly to spin the various pieces with the belt still hanging loose on the car. I have only done that test to confirm I have no issues with the belt completely out, but my guess is that you should be able to move the belt a bit at each spot to spin each pulley and listen for noise or feel for any untoward movement. The alternator will have a bit of end play but should not be growling or squealing as you spin it.
I am not sure about cranking the car now, but I would normally do that check with my stethoscope before pulling everything apart. Maybe someone else can comment on that.
Ed
When you loosen the tensioner pulley you will need to make sure you know where the belt is routed BEFORE you do this. If you are going to remove the belt, mark it with an arrow in the direction it spins so you replace it the same way it came off.
The fitment is pretty tight, so it is unlikely it will come off the crank pulley unintentionally. In some of the write ups I have seen, people will loosen the bolts on the PS pump before loosening the tension and then remove that pulley once the belt tension is removed to make R&R'ing the belt easier.
In most write ups the order of placing the belt back on starts from bottom left to the right and ends on the top left with the alternator second to last and the idler below it last.
IT may be a little fiddly to spin the various pieces with the belt still hanging loose on the car. I have only done that test to confirm I have no issues with the belt completely out, but my guess is that you should be able to move the belt a bit at each spot to spin each pulley and listen for noise or feel for any untoward movement. The alternator will have a bit of end play but should not be growling or squealing as you spin it.
I am not sure about cranking the car now, but I would normally do that check with my stethoscope before pulling everything apart. Maybe someone else can comment on that.
Ed
#33
01-06-2018, 04:36 PM
Got the belt loose and out of way. When I mention pushing back and forth I mean pushing/pulling on pulley (not spinning it)
2 idler pulleys spin but don’t exactly free spin but they have absolutely no play in them and make absolutely no audible noises when pushed back and forth.
The Tensioner pulley spins almost as good as the idlers but has a little play in it when you push it back and forth and makes and audible bumping noise when pushed back and forth.
The alternator has no play and free spins very good. It makes a very very very very light noise but I feel like this is the magnets and the windings.
The power steering free spins great but has some play when pushed back and forth and makes and audible bumping sound when pushed back and forth.
The AC Compressor free spins great and has a very very tiny amount of play when pushed back and forth but makes no audible sound when you push it back and forth (feels like the play is by design)
2 idler pulleys spin but don’t exactly free spin but they have absolutely no play in them and make absolutely no audible noises when pushed back and forth.
The Tensioner pulley spins almost as good as the idlers but has a little play in it when you push it back and forth and makes and audible bumping noise when pushed back and forth.
The alternator has no play and free spins very good. It makes a very very very very light noise but I feel like this is the magnets and the windings.
The power steering free spins great but has some play when pushed back and forth and makes and audible bumping sound when pushed back and forth.
The AC Compressor free spins great and has a very very tiny amount of play when pushed back and forth but makes no audible sound when you push it back and forth (feels like the play is by design)
#35
01-06-2018, 08:34 PM
OK, well so much for the easy diagnostic work.
As I said earlier, when I have a noise like that I try and track it down using my stethoscope. My son had these wheezing noise (sometimes) in his Audi A4, and by running the engine and using the steth, I tracked it down to a PCV valve that was whining and buzzing alternately.
I always try to avoid just replacing things before having some direction from diagnostic work. Just to re-check, you have spun every pulley in the loop (save the crankshaft pulley) and none of them squeals when you spin it, correct? You have 2 idler pulleys that don't spin as freely, but they are not growling or squealing when you manually spin them. Both the alternator, AC compressor and PS pump spin freely without noise.
Looking back, did you try and spin the water pump? I know you said it was replaced but it wouldn't the first time a replaced item had an issue.
Other than that, if you do not want to just start ordering pulleys, you may have no choice but to get the y pipe back on with the MAF's connected and run the engine to listen to the various pulleys and pinpoint the noise. A mechanic's stethoscope is very inexpensive and may be helpful in your diagnostic work.
Ed
As I said earlier, when I have a noise like that I try and track it down using my stethoscope. My son had these wheezing noise (sometimes) in his Audi A4, and by running the engine and using the steth, I tracked it down to a PCV valve that was whining and buzzing alternately.
I always try to avoid just replacing things before having some direction from diagnostic work. Just to re-check, you have spun every pulley in the loop (save the crankshaft pulley) and none of them squeals when you spin it, correct? You have 2 idler pulleys that don't spin as freely, but they are not growling or squealing when you manually spin them. Both the alternator, AC compressor and PS pump spin freely without noise.
Looking back, did you try and spin the water pump? I know you said it was replaced but it wouldn't the first time a replaced item had an issue.
Other than that, if you do not want to just start ordering pulleys, you may have no choice but to get the y pipe back on with the MAF's connected and run the engine to listen to the various pulleys and pinpoint the noise. A mechanic's stethoscope is very inexpensive and may be helpful in your diagnostic work.
Ed
#38
01-13-2018, 05:13 PM
Got car back together
I put the car back together today and went and drove the **** out of it. I put some WD40 on all the bearings but that didn’t help any. In fact now the sound is a high pitchesd whining sound and more noticeable. The coolant did NOT leak down anymore while driving it today. I bought the stethoscope today and will try to pinpoint it but I think it’s the power steering. Isn’t there something else that could go wrong with power steering and cause the whining sound other than the whole pump?
#39
01-13-2018, 06:14 PM
I put the car back together today and went and drove the **** out of it. I put some WD40 on all the bearings but that didn’t help any. In fact now the sound is a high pitchesd whining sound and more noticeable. The coolant did NOT leak down anymore while driving it today. I bought the stethoscope today and will try to pinpoint it but I think it’s the power steering. Isn’t there something else that could go wrong with power steering and cause the whining sound other than the whole pump?
I put a DIY on this forum as well that will walk you through it. (LINK HERE)
Good luck
DC
#40
01-14-2018, 07:24 PM
Does it sound like a meowing sound that increases and decreases in pitch along with the RPM?
My only experience with PS pumps failing is with the pump itself and not the pulley, but that doesn't mean anything for you.
I think I asked if you checked the Water pump for noise, but I can't remember if you replied to that.
Ed
My only experience with PS pumps failing is with the pump itself and not the pulley, but that doesn't mean anything for you.
I think I asked if you checked the Water pump for noise, but I can't remember if you replied to that.
Ed
#41
01-15-2018, 10:58 AM
Does it sound like a meowing sound that increases and decreases in pitch along with the RPM?
My only experience with PS pumps failing is with the pump itself and not the pulley, but that doesn't mean anything for you.
I think I asked if you checked the Water pump for noise, but I can't remember if you replied to that.
Ed
My only experience with PS pumps failing is with the pump itself and not the pulley, but that doesn't mean anything for you.
I think I asked if you checked the Water pump for noise, but I can't remember if you replied to that.
Ed
The water pump looks new, and was supposedly replaced before the car was shipped to me. I have not however put the stethoscope on it because it won’t reach with the airbox and y pipe on (MAFsensors in airbox and y pipe) The sound, It does change with RPMs. It’s doesnt seem to be affected by turning the steering wheel, just RPMs. If you rev motor the sound goes along with the RPMs.Ed thanks for stopping by and giving your input this entire time. I appreciate it.
#42
01-15-2018, 01:26 PM
In IT, whenever something stops working we ask the question, "What changed?"
Now this doesn't always apply, but it is a good rule of thumb to use.
When I R&R'd the PS pump on my older Audi, it was "meowing" as the RPM's went up and down, but not making noise when I turned left/right on the steering wheel. This noise was not a squealing or thunking noise you might hear when a bearing starts to go, but almost like someone zippering up two metal gears up and down. I know that description is weak and an Audi PS pump may not be similar sounding to a Porsche PS pump.
You should be able to get to the PS Pump with your steth easily. The WP may only be accessible from below the car, and depending on what you have available to get the car off the ground, that may be easier said than done. Someone else might have better suggestions for listening to the WP.
I have my car in the air for a low note horn and some custom (me) grill inserts to protect the radiators from stones & debris. I will take a look underneath and tell you what I think about being able to listen from there.
Ed
Now this doesn't always apply, but it is a good rule of thumb to use.
When I R&R'd the PS pump on my older Audi, it was "meowing" as the RPM's went up and down, but not making noise when I turned left/right on the steering wheel. This noise was not a squealing or thunking noise you might hear when a bearing starts to go, but almost like someone zippering up two metal gears up and down. I know that description is weak and an Audi PS pump may not be similar sounding to a Porsche PS pump.
You should be able to get to the PS Pump with your steth easily. The WP may only be accessible from below the car, and depending on what you have available to get the car off the ground, that may be easier said than done. Someone else might have better suggestions for listening to the WP.
I have my car in the air for a low note horn and some custom (me) grill inserts to protect the radiators from stones & debris. I will take a look underneath and tell you what I think about being able to listen from there.
Ed
#43
01-16-2018, 04:01 PM
Idler and tensioner
so the Porsche dealership informed it was the tensioner pulley and the idler pulley closest to the power steering pump. Is this an easy DIY? Should I also replace the 2nd idler under the Ac Compressor?
#44
01-16-2018, 04:29 PM
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#45
01-16-2018, 08:05 PM
No, only the center pulley is tension, the others are idler pulleys. Any of the three can be making noise. The tension is released by rotating the 24mm bolt at the center of the tensioner pulley clockwise. Idler and tensioner pulleys can definitely generate noise, but so can any rotating part of the serpentine system. PS pump is far right silver wheel. Center black is the AC Compressor.
When you loosen the tensioner pulley you will need to make sure you know where the belt is routed BEFORE you do this. If you are going to remove the belt, mark it with an arrow in the direction it spins so you replace it the same way it came off.
The fitment is pretty tight, so it is unlikely it will come off the crank pulley unintentionally. In some of the write ups I have seen, people will loosen the bolts on the PS pump before loosening the tension and then remove that pulley once the belt tension is removed to make R&R'ing the belt easier.
In most write ups the order of placing the belt back on starts from bottom left to the right and ends on the top left with the alternator second to last and the idler below it last.
IT may be a little fiddly to spin the various pieces with the belt still hanging loose on the car. I have only done that test to confirm I have no issues with the belt completely out, but my guess is that you should be able to move the belt a bit at each spot to spin each pulley and listen for noise or feel for any untoward movement. The alternator will have a bit of end play but should not be growling or squealing as you spin it.
I am not sure about cranking the car now, but I would normally do that check with my stethoscope before pulling everything apart. Maybe someone else can comment on that.
Ed
When you loosen the tensioner pulley you will need to make sure you know where the belt is routed BEFORE you do this. If you are going to remove the belt, mark it with an arrow in the direction it spins so you replace it the same way it came off.
The fitment is pretty tight, so it is unlikely it will come off the crank pulley unintentionally. In some of the write ups I have seen, people will loosen the bolts on the PS pump before loosening the tension and then remove that pulley once the belt tension is removed to make R&R'ing the belt easier.
In most write ups the order of placing the belt back on starts from bottom left to the right and ends on the top left with the alternator second to last and the idler below it last.
IT may be a little fiddly to spin the various pieces with the belt still hanging loose on the car. I have only done that test to confirm I have no issues with the belt completely out, but my guess is that you should be able to move the belt a bit at each spot to spin each pulley and listen for noise or feel for any untoward movement. The alternator will have a bit of end play but should not be growling or squealing as you spin it.
I am not sure about cranking the car now, but I would normally do that check with my stethoscope before pulling everything apart. Maybe someone else can comment on that.
Ed
Ed only discrepancy I saw is you don’t release the tensioner with the 24mm. You release it with the much smaller bolt on the tensioner arm. Was this the correct way? Wouldn’t releasing the 24mm put all the tension on the thru bold holding the tensioner pulley possibly bending it if the belt was still in place.
