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How big is that? were there other smaller bits too?
Its not small, about 3/4 of an inch.
No other parts/pieces found, so if there are any they may still be in there.
As for sort shifting - I don’t do that. Have never dropped it down and over rev’ed. I have hit the limiter before but only in first. The thing throws down a lot of power! But that alone shouldn’t be the cause. Think it’s just wear and tear from a LOT of spirited driving. Ya know?
My first step will be a compression and leak down test.
I think that’s a given now.
Think that’s the start and should give me a good idea of next steps.
How long (how many hours) should that take, trying to gauge costs? What’s involved - I’m not that familiar with the work. Does the engine come out?
And is there risk of the tests coming back OK and while in fact the problem persists and builds?
You have to access the spark plugs for compression/leakdown tests so I think it's a handful of hours labour? If you know for sure the engine is coming down then maybe it makes sense to wait till then to do the compression/leakdown while planning on what you are going to do as far as build. I guess if it's the tensioner then at the least the engine will need to come down and the tensioner inspected/replaced? You need to decide if you will send the whole car or just the engine for any work if done in the US....
The only way you are going to address the tensioner is to drop the engine, so you might be able to combine some of the time it would take to get at the sparks with the engine drop, however it will be much more expensive to drop the engine than access the spark plugs.
Since you really must deal with the tensioners, I do not think you have a choice about dropping the engine and to do the leak down without the drop would just be adding cost, although not a huge amount by Porsche standards.
Once it is down you will be able to check the numbers off the cylinders and see if you have valve or piston issues, or possibly something else. The oil consumption seems high, and there are only a few areas which would account for it, but I am surprised you have seen no evidence of the source, namely some smoke somewhere. If it's valves or guides, you might only see that with some negative pressure that would be created if you stayed in gear and coasted down a hill then got on the throttle. Any oil sucked in would be pushed out and burn in a puff. If it was rings, I would expect you would be smoking all the time, but I have never had that kind of failure so I don't know for sure.
Wow good luck i'm in the middle of an unplanned 3.8 rebuild myself ,it's never good timing but like you said at least you caught it before she exploded on you.
I don't think this needs to be a whole crazy expensive build if you don't want it to be. It should only take a few hours to test the compression. If you've got good cylinders and your chains check out you could be good to go for minimal parts costs + labor by just changing the chain guides and cleaning up the plastic. There is a Mezger 996 with K16 billets that has over 500,000 miles on it out there. Your car should last just fine. https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...0-miles-on-it/
Wow good luck i'm in the middle of an unplanned 3.8 rebuild myself ,it's never good timing but like you said at least you caught it before she exploded on you.
Question for the Canadians, do any of you have experience in shipping the car, or the engine to the states?
I’ve heard good and bad stories with duties and agents.
Ive made a choice to go with a 3.8L rebuild. I’ve come to terms with a 30K to 40K bill
My first choice would be to work with Sam and John. But that means the added complexity of cross border shipment - this may require a lot of research to figure out the best way to do this, hence my question.
Im communicating with a few shops locally too.
My Indy says he will only work with FVD parts - he’s a vendor for them and swears by their quality.
Would highly recommend Sam and John Bray. That's who did my 3.8 build and shipped it to them in CA. Good luck with the build, I know you'll enjoy it once it's done.
Question for the Canadians, do any of you have experience in shipping the car, or the engine to the states?
I’ve heard good and bad stories with duties and agents.
Ive made a choice to go with a 3.8L rebuild. I’ve come to terms with a 30K to 40K bill
My first choice would be to work with Sam and John. But that means the added complexity of cross border shipment - this may require a lot of research to figure out the best way to do this, hence my question.
Im communicating with a few shops locally too.
My Indy says he will only work with FVD parts - he’s a vendor for them and swears by their quality.
I’d ship the car... it’s possible you can trailer it across the boarder yourself and hand it off to a shipping company. Do your homework but domestic shipping is much cheaper. No customs issues as it’s still your car.
The benefit comes from when you bring it back since you also won’t have to worry too much about customs. Plus the car will be drivable. So make a trip of it!
Atleast you get an early warning! But it does suck I agree ...
Good news is you don’t really need an all-out $40K build, mine was an unplanned build too and I ended with 6K in parts and about 5K in labour, key is control as it can get very expensive very quickly ...
Extra stuff you don’t really need: Head porting, upgraded cams, valvetrain, any intake or header mod. Thats a saving of around $12K. Stock heads and cams are good to mid 900’s.
Rods, studs and pinned cams is all you need, drop in pistons if your engine has high milage. Rest is consumables like bearings/gaskets/chains and guides ect and labour ....
^^^^ that's what I was thinking. 40k should get you a car with well over 1000hp I would think. A basic build with rods and new consumable parts shouldn't cost anywhere near that much. If you're looking to compete with Prodigy and Rix and others then you have to pony up the $$$. Pure, I'm not sure what your goal is but I'm sure you realize that along the path to more hp you will find more bottlenecks...i.e. the clutch, the axles, the exhaust, the intercoolers. My personal opinion, and my plan if I need to do a build would be to get stronger rods, pin the cams, and try to leave everything else like clutch and exhaust alone. I know you're limited to the same pump gas as I am so it doesn't make a lot of sense to me to see you spend the big $$. Having briefly experienced 23-24psi I sort of envy you getting the build done!
You have to access the spark plugs for compression/leakdown tests so I think it's a handful of hours labour? If you know for sure the engine is coming down then maybe it makes sense to wait till then to do the compression/leakdown while planning on what you are going to do as far as build. I guess if it's the tensioner then at the least the engine will need to come down and the tensioner inspected/replaced? You need to decide if you will send the whole car or just the engine for any work if done in the US....
I just suggested that incase he was thinking of doing a repair instead of a build. Sounds like he wants to build it so no sense in testing in that case.
So here's the latest...
Labour day weekend update after a few glasses of wine
Get ready for a diatribe
After quite a bit of investigation, contemplating, I decided not to ship the car or engine to the states (many reasons).
Additionally I'm opting (for now) to stick with a 3.6, standard engine rebuild. The main reason for this is that there's no ethanol up north in Canada, so going 3.8L would garner only about 30 - 40 additional HP with my build. The cost just does not justify it.
Last week we fitted new tires (I got a flat and replaced all fours with Pilot Cup 2s) and started to address suspension mods/fixes.
Part of this is dealing with a failed bilstein drop link mount (not the drop link itself - as I'm using Tarett drop links for mine - actually the bilstein mount failed).
Ok, let me catch everyone up. They say things happen in 3's...
Well, in one weekend, I got a screw in a tire (1) and then had a suspension failure (2).
Sunday night, that weekend, I ordered a new set of Cup 2's and booked my car in to the mechanic for the suspension...
Then on the monday, when I took the car in for the suspension check, we decided to do an oil change and found the piece of plastic in the oil... thats #3!
Here's the pain... Bilstein shock mount failing. Yes, the shocks are better than stock (for performance), but their mounts, for their drop links, are the weak point - they are S**T!!! --- DO NOT BUY BILSTEIN AFTERMARKET SHOCKS!!! --- Unless you're like me and are a sucker for punishment.
More on the suspension...
Had issues with my aftermarket bilstein struts multiple times. If you do a search here, you will find I had two catastrophic failures and this is the third. Bilstein shocks are plain JUNK.
Ignore everything you have read online - there's one cult worshiper on this forum ... ignore his posts. They are not worth the hassle. I'm sticking with them and spending way too much $$$$$ to get that system right. Main reason is I'm also leveraging DSC management system (which is the "bees knees") and hence need damptronic struts. BTW my springs are custom - custom manufactured rear and front. Threw away the bilstein crap springs. All other suspension components have been replaced with RSS and Tarett components which are fantastic.
Further on the suspension, I'm working with Tarett to completely replace the flawed Bilstein drop link mounts and changing the front geometry entirely with Tarett's extended drop link kit. Pretty cool stuff if you guys are after perfect geometry. Tarett is a TOP NOTCH OPERATION.
Ira, who is my contact there, is outstanding. Working with him has been such a pleasure. Definitely one of the top recommended tuner suppliers for our vehicles.
Totally recommend Tarett Engineering and will say that Ira is a LEGEND!!!
Here's the groovy Tarett extension pieces that IRA has produced for me, that fit the bilsteins I'm running...
OK, Back to the engine...
I'm working with a top tier tuner here in Vancouver (SCAN Automotive) and of course Sam from By Design.
...what a pleasure working with them both!
My mechanic is actually juggling my car and a CGT at the same time. Very custom shop in Vancouver and meticulous.
Next week, the shop has scheduled leak down tests to determine the oil consumption issue I've been having, before they tear the engine apart.
This looks like it may be a month operation or potentially longer. Quite a bit depends on getting the engine open and a full investigation. Also getting time with the machiners if anything needs to be sent to them.
Of course I'm still open to hardening the engine up and maybe (only if it makes financial sense) potential 3.8 build. But it depends on what we find in the engine once its open. Right now staying with the 3.6 is the way to go.
Second to that, Sam and I have a plan for an additional ~100 hp (roughly estimated). Which, by my estimates, if everything goes to plan, should conservatively put me at the 850+ HP crank range with regular 91 Octane gas.
This is the HAIL MARY given the lack of ethanol in Canada...
#boostJuice #snowPerformance
Keep you guys posted.
Last edited by pureporsche; 09-01-2019 at 03:03 PM.
08-14-2019, 06:14 PM
