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Is the noise only when the engine is warm? What happens if you rev the engine a bit? Can you post a video of the noise from the bottom of the car from left to right?
ticking happens regardless of engine temperature. It is speed dependent and present with accessory belt being disconnected. I just received the stethoscope I ordered....going to do some probing tonight after work. I am also going to swap out oil filter and cut open the used one to see if anything is in there.
Man it really does have a lifter sound to it, but with the chains right there, there's a lot of parts moving. And since I cannot find a video or sound clip of the IMS making noise I have nothing to compare it to. Also a lot of stuff rotates in these engines in addition to the valve train and crank shaft.
Did you isolate it to one side with the steth?
Have you been able to do a compression check? (I know these cars don't make that easy to do, but maybe you can get at least the first couple of cylinders on each bank checked without too much drama).
Man it really does have a lifter sound to it, but with the chains right there, there's a lot of parts moving. And since I cannot find a video or sound clip of the IMS making noise I have nothing to compare it to. Also a lot of stuff rotates in these engines in addition to the valve train and crank shaft.
Did you isolate it to one side with the steth?
Have you been able to do a compression check? (I know these cars don't make that easy to do, but maybe you can get at least the first couple of cylinders on each bank checked without too much drama).
Ed
Yeah it is isolated to the passenger side...or better yet center to passenger side on the face of the engine with the crank pulley. I am going to count my blessings and be happy that whatever it is....isn't worse (stuff in oil filter). I am going to leave it in the hands of professionals from here on out. It has been my daily driver for the last 5yrs....and I was keen on getting a new 2 me car in January...so I have to decide what I want as I can only afford one thing. AMG GT S and GT R have really been catching my eye (and depreciating within reach) as of late as have the 991.1 GT3 and Turbo S. This camry rental I am moping around in is def reminding me why I can't just drive a regular car.
Regarding my build, I'm in Vancouver Canada and using SCAN Automotive for the actual work. James @SCAN is incredibly attentive and literally hyper focused on getting everything right. His taking pictures of all the work (as I'm pretty busy and can't make it down to the shop as much as I'd like). He has a fantastic reputation, great to work with and rebuilt a few of these engines (together with some classics too).
I've actually pulled the trigger on a 3.8L build too. So John Bray is helping me out on all the parts. He's just finalizing all the machining this week. Should be ready to ship over to James next week.
I have Sam Ahdoot (By Design) finishing off the custom Water-Meth kit too and that's looking to be all ready to ship next week.
He'll be supporting a new custom tune when everything is put back together.
The engine build is not cheap. It's approximately 100 hrs of labour plus parts and taxes.
Regarding your issues, I'm no expert, but its very rare that you will have an IMS issue on a mezger engine. My advice is to flat bed it to a good mechanic.
I found very quickly that until you get an expert to look into it, all you'll spend up doing is worrying and still not have much confidence in a solution.
PS. my advice is to drain the oil and look at that, as opposed to just the oil filter. In my case we didn't find anything in the filter but the plastic chunk did come out in the oil itself.
Regarding my build, I'm in Vancouver Canada and using SCAN Automotive for the actual work. James @SCAN is incredibly attentive and literally hyper focused on getting everything right. His taking pictures of all the work (as I'm pretty busy and can't make it down to the shop as much as I'd like). He has a fantastic reputation, great to work with and rebuilt a few of these engines (together with some classics too).
I've actually pulled the trigger on a 3.8L build too. So John Bray is helping me out on all the parts. He's just finalizing all the machining this week. Should be ready to ship over to James next week.
I have Sam Ahdoot (By Design) finishing off the custom Water-Meth kit too and that's looking to be all ready to ship next week.
He'll be supporting a new custom tune when everything is put back together.
The engine build is not cheap. It's approximately 100 hrs of labour plus parts and taxes.
Regarding your issues, I'm no expert, but its very rare that you will have an IMS issue on a mezger engine. My advice is to flat bed it to a good mechanic.
I found very quickly that until you get an expert to look into it, all you'll spend up doing is worrying and still not have much confidence in a solution.
PS. my advice is to drain the oil and look at that, as opposed to just the oil filter. In my case we didn't find anything in the filter but the plastic chunk did come out in the oil itself.
Thanks.....will perform an oil change this coming weekend.
Pureporsche sorry to hear about the engine, we all know these unexpected repairs can be hard on the wallet and stressful but I hope it turns out great in the end for you (and it will with your team). Also wanted to commend you on the nice GT2 conversion, I have always thought about do it to mine one day.
Sounds like its going 3.8L, doing anything to the heads, cams, etc. Not to pile on to the cash burning ...but good time to think about doing bigger turbos (Bogg has a nice setup for example). Could always do them after of course, just easier now that the engine is out. Interested to see the custom methanol setup as well. Looking forward to the results of your project.
Everything got replaced. Actually I went for a custom blueprinted 3.8L build from John Bray.
No backfire, but did have quite a bit of smoke on startup and down shift.
Still not back on the road. The car is complete, it's been broken in. But we had inconsistent spray from the water-meth kit, so those parts needed to be sent back for replacement. She's just about done. Should be getting her back in a matter of days, if not this weekend.
PS. I took the New GT2RS for a spin this week in Vegas, and it actually felt much slower than my car (bottom and top end). Actually the handling was comparable to my setup (I've done a lot of work) so that surprised me. But yeah that car felt slow
Can't imagine what my new 3.8L (+meth water) beast will feel like.
Last edited by pureporsche; Feb 20, 2020 at 07:43 AM.
Bumping this because I have the same issue and wanted some advice.
New to me 997TT manual with 80k miles on it has plastic pieces showing up in the oil filter. This is the 2nd oil change I've done under my ownership and the previous oil change didn't have any debris in the filter. About 1000 miles and 6 months between the two changes. The car drives fine and there's no CELs or strange noises/behavior, it pulls strong.
I've received mixed advice over how I should proceed forward. Should I be taking a wait and see approach by continuing to drive carefully and changing the oil in 500 miles or so to check debris in the filter again or do I bite the bullet and take it in to replace the chain guides?
In my experience, if an engine is giving you information about a potential problem, you ignore it at your own risk. Since chain guides/tensioners help keep the chains taught and the upper and lower halves of the engine in synch, if they fail catastrophically, you have a poorly running engine at best, a bunch of bent valves or a destroyed engine at worst.
If this is a .1 and you haven't had the cams or the coolant pipes pinned, the plastic elbows replaced or any of the rubber coolant hoses replaced, you can handle all of those items while the engine is down to help make the work more worthwhile. If you're like me, you can also add the GT2 clutch slave to the list and possibly a new clutch setup if the clutch has not been changed in a while.
Either way, for me, I am not a wait-and-see kind of guy, so this would be handled sooner rather than later.
In my experience, if an engine is giving you information about a potential problem, you ignore it at your own risk. Since chain guides/tensioners help keep the chains taught and the upper and lower halves of the engine in synch, if they fail catastrophically, you have a poorly running engine at best, a bunch of bent valves or a destroyed engine at worst.
If this is a .1 and you haven't had the cams or the coolant pipes pinned, the plastic elbows replaced or any of the rubber coolant hoses replaced, you can handle all of those items while the engine is down to help make the work more worthwhile. If you're like me, you can also add the GT2 clutch slave to the list and possibly a new clutch setup if the clutch has not been changed in a while.
Either way, for me, I am not a wait-and-see kind of guy, so this would be handled sooner rather than later.
Ed
As per lliejk note above.
I didn't want to risk it, and undertook a full engine rebuild - and added some more goodies while there.
It was a very, very expensive exercise, and months of work at my local specialty shop. The result is an incredibly rewarding car to drive. If I had the choice, I would do it the same way again.
It's a difficult decision, but these cars are appreciating in value.
Looking after them and their engines is the way to go, IMO.
Keep all the receipts and if done at a reputable shop, it will help with residual value of the car.
...but good time to think about doing bigger turbos (Bogg has a nice setup for example). Could always do them after of course, just easier now that the engine is out. Interested to see the custom methanol setup as well. Looking forward to the results of your project.
