Hi,

I spent some time today replacing front brake pads and also painting calipers, everything was simple enough except of one big problem - on right side front caliper both damper pads got one of those inserts completely stuck inside of the pistons. all others came out with no issues - but that right front caliper apparently is not OK. I also had some issues some time before when car had tendency to steer to the left during braking, so, I was thinking to replace everything on that caliper but could not get those damper pads out at all - when I tried to pull `em out applying some reasonable force to that pad - it started separating from that round part what sits inside of the piston, so I gave up and simply put new pads into it. Funny thing is - on left pad lower thing got stuck, on right one - upper part. Looking at old brake pads I got from that caliper I noticed that one of them has more wear on top side than on lower side, other pad has equal wear on both sides.

So, practical question number one is - how the heck to extract those damping pads when they are seem to be permanently stuck in the piston? I really do not want to take off caliper completely and without taking it off if I tear it apart and will leave something inside of the piston - it seems like a major PITA job.

Second question - does non equal wear on brake pad mean that caliper itself is a goner? How could it be happening and why? Does it mean one of pistons does not retract properly? But why would it? Both pads from left caliper were ideally equally wear on top and bottom. Pressing on brakes and pushing pistons inside by hands does not seem to indicate any sighs of any obstruction there, everything seems to be OK. So, what gives?

 

I've never heard of the damping devices being stuck. As I remember, the part that goes in the piston is also metal, so there is no plastic to melt and stick to the inner piston surface. The first time I installed track pads I removed those things and never put them back.

Some taper in pad wear is not unusual. If extreme, it could mean the caliper has spread slightly, and should be replaced. That can be determined quickly by the dealer.

 

I've had the damper pistons stick in piston cups also. No big deal. I put a squirt of PB Blaster on it, wiped up excess, put it back together. Next time I swapped pads for the track, a week or 2 later, the previously stuck dampers came out easily.

 

Second question - does non equal wear on brake pad mean that caliper itself is a goner? How could it be happening and why? Does it mean one of pistons does not retract properly? But why would it? Both pads from left caliper were ideally equally wear on top and bottom. Pressing on brakes and pushing pistons inside by hands does not seem to indicate any sighs of any obstruction there, everything seems to be OK. So, what gives?[/quote]

It is very common for pad wear to be uneven - both for a single pad to wear unevenly and for the inner pad to wear differently than the outer pads - not a problem.

I often find significant difference in wear of inner and outer track pads. When really noticable I have swapped the inner and outer pads (not recommending this, just saying I've tried it). When I swappped the pads had all kinds of noise for first few sessions, then they quietted down. Despite the increased noise, braking did not seem adversely effected and the thicker pad started getting worn down more quickly once swapped.

 

thanks for this info, I will try to do the same, hopefully it will work.

 

Another thing you can do if you care to is just use a right angle Phillips screw driver to undo the screw that holds the damper plate to the damper piston and install your new plate on your old stuck piston. I tried removing the screw as part of trying to get the stuck damper out before I went to PB Blaster as described earlier. I found the screws were not stuck even though the piston was.

I don't bother changing the dampers - for street I just reuse them - for track I take them out (if not stuck) to make it easier to get the fat track pads in.

 

Once I took mine out for track use I never put them back in and haven't regretted it. My wear sensors also are zip tied back and have some electrical tape over the ends.

If I had the OPs issues, I would get my brakes looked at by a real mechanic, not a pad changer like me.

 

Not only can you use a right angle phillps head screw driver, after you get the screw out, you can take a longer screw and screw it in and straight through. The other end of the dampener piston is open. You can keep turning the longer screw till it breaks free the damper piston. The longer screw will push the damper piston out. Be sure and let it soak with some PB Blaster.

The same thing happened to me on both front calipers. I was able to get the stuck one on the left front caliper out but, the left front, the screw became stripped. Fortunatly it was covered under the factory warranty and the caliper was replaced.

I examined the dampener piston I removed and it had seized due to rust. Probably due to all the car washing I do and being put up wet. Maybe it's better to drive some after car washes to make sure the dampener in the piston is dry.

I put some anti-seize on the new dampener pistons when they where replaced. I probably am going to start swapping pads for track events so I may do away with the dampeners all together. That was one pain in the *** that I do not want to go though again.

I hope this helps. Feel free to pm or post here if I can be anymore help.

 

+1 on the anti-seize,very thin coat.

Longer screw is good idea I did not try - didn't realize could get a longer one in without removing caliper (lazy) but probably could have switched to a hex head and used an open end wrench instead of the right angle Phillips which I didn't think would fit with a longer bolt. PB Blaster and a little heat from braking for a few days and it slipped right out - of course I had to pull wheel twice so longer screw trick while wheel is off is a labor saver if you don't switch pads regularly for the track - just be gentle and don't strip the threads.