View Poll Results: best intake option for Carrera S
keep stock intake



16
28.07%
replace with BMC filter



17
29.82%
Fabspeed cold intake with BMC filter



6
10.53%
Fabspeed Maxflo Comp air intake



3
5.26%
EVOMS V-flow intake



15
26.32%
Voters: 57. You may not vote on this poll
intake options
intake options
looking to possibly change the intake of my 07 997 CS2.
i've read countless threads.. and PMed few members here trying to pick their brains..
but still need some inputs from members here.
i initially bought BMC filter to replace the factory one.. but havent installed it, yet.. currently, my car will only have a Cargraphics catback and Porsche SSK for performance mods
options i am considering for intake:
1- keep it stock - after all, how much gain can i really get from changing the intake.. unless i also do FI or at least ECU flash
2- just replace oem filter with BMC filter - this was my original plan.. until i found out that BMC allows more dirt to go into the engine.. for a minimal or no gain.
3- bmc filter with fabspeed cold air kit - since i already have a bmc filter, this would be the least expensive way.. but the gain has been debated on.. and the orange sleeve looks like something i can DIY.. no offense Fabspeed
4- fabspeed maxflo competition air intake - this looks very nice.. still waiting for members reviews.. pos or neg
5- evoms v-flow intake - got a great price from Rennsport-1..
almost too good to pass up.. and i understand this is the most used set up in comp currently.. the quality has been argued over.. but the power gain seem to be agreed on.
first concern is the $ vs HP/TQ gain.. is it worth it??
my other concern (and more important than the initial cost of a mod) is the Porsche warranty - i understand that different dealers seem to have different set of rules when it comes to voiding warranties for mods.. but what is the general rule when it comes to intakes?
i dont want to change the intake every time i take my car for service.
and i definitely dont want my warranty voided..
thx in adv !
i've read countless threads.. and PMed few members here trying to pick their brains..
but still need some inputs from members here.

i initially bought BMC filter to replace the factory one.. but havent installed it, yet.. currently, my car will only have a Cargraphics catback and Porsche SSK for performance mods
options i am considering for intake:
1- keep it stock - after all, how much gain can i really get from changing the intake.. unless i also do FI or at least ECU flash
2- just replace oem filter with BMC filter - this was my original plan.. until i found out that BMC allows more dirt to go into the engine.. for a minimal or no gain.
3- bmc filter with fabspeed cold air kit - since i already have a bmc filter, this would be the least expensive way.. but the gain has been debated on.. and the orange sleeve looks like something i can DIY.. no offense Fabspeed

4- fabspeed maxflo competition air intake - this looks very nice.. still waiting for members reviews.. pos or neg
5- evoms v-flow intake - got a great price from Rennsport-1..
almost too good to pass up.. and i understand this is the most used set up in comp currently.. the quality has been argued over.. but the power gain seem to be agreed on.first concern is the $ vs HP/TQ gain.. is it worth it??
my other concern (and more important than the initial cost of a mod) is the Porsche warranty - i understand that different dealers seem to have different set of rules when it comes to voiding warranties for mods.. but what is the general rule when it comes to intakes?
i dont want to change the intake every time i take my car for service.
and i definitely dont want my warranty voided..
thx in adv !
You can do the X51 intake (or just replace paper filter with BMC) if you are worried about warranty. You will not get much of any performance gain with swapping your intake. This has been discussed at numerous length in many threads on this forum. You will get some change in exhaust sound though.
I am going to add the one I had to the list. It was the Champion motorsport F77 . http://www.championmotorsport.com/pe...r_package.html
Here's a sound clip with the Tubi and software. I loved mine and it's ideal for a cab. In fact i drove forum member Babymd's cab (he hasn't posted recently) and it was amazing so Inhave heard it in person on a cab.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMWLpdVrhWU
Here's a sound clip with the Tubi and software. I loved mine and it's ideal for a cab. In fact i drove forum member Babymd's cab (he hasn't posted recently) and it was amazing so Inhave heard it in person on a cab.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMWLpdVrhWU
I am going to add the one I had to the list. It was the Champion motorsport F77 . http://www.championmotorsport.com/pe...r_package.html
Here's a sound clip with the Tubi and software. I loved mine and it's ideal for a cab. In fact i drove forum member Babymd's cab (he hasn't posted recently) and it was amazing so Inhave heard it in person on a cab.
Here's a sound clip with the Tubi and software. I loved mine and it's ideal for a cab. In fact i drove forum member Babymd's cab (he hasn't posted recently) and it was amazing so Inhave heard it in person on a cab.
2- just replace oem filter with BMC filter - this was my original plan.. until i found out that BMC allows more dirt to go into the engine.. for a minimal or no gain.
I'm not an expert, so take this for what it's worth.
I think the stock airbox is just fine, and a new airbox will bring modest (if any) noticable gains.
Here's where I'm getting my opinion:
* I had a 650hp kit on my '09 997 turbo. This company messed around with many different airbox configurations and vendors, and found the stock airbox to provide the best solution w.r.t. power, reliability & performance
* I just took my '87 Carrera Targa to a shop specializing in older Porsche. I'm probably doing a full stainless exhaust setup (removing all existing) among some other goodies. I asked about the airbox and he said the stock airbox is the best solution for power, reliability & performance.
* I had the Fabspeed "cold air intake" carbon fiber thing on my 997 turbo. It looked very cool, sounded great, but I don't think really added anything in terms of power (though I did not do a pre/post dyno -- only used the butt dyno). With that said, the looks and the sound was superb, but I went back to stock based on bullet #1 above
I did put a BMC filter on my 997.2S stock airbox. I can tell a bit of sound improvement, nothing on the butt dyno.
I think the stock airbox is just fine, and a new airbox will bring modest (if any) noticable gains.
Here's where I'm getting my opinion:
* I had a 650hp kit on my '09 997 turbo. This company messed around with many different airbox configurations and vendors, and found the stock airbox to provide the best solution w.r.t. power, reliability & performance
* I just took my '87 Carrera Targa to a shop specializing in older Porsche. I'm probably doing a full stainless exhaust setup (removing all existing) among some other goodies. I asked about the airbox and he said the stock airbox is the best solution for power, reliability & performance.
* I had the Fabspeed "cold air intake" carbon fiber thing on my 997 turbo. It looked very cool, sounded great, but I don't think really added anything in terms of power (though I did not do a pre/post dyno -- only used the butt dyno). With that said, the looks and the sound was superb, but I went back to stock based on bullet #1 above
I did put a BMC filter on my 997.2S stock airbox. I can tell a bit of sound improvement, nothing on the butt dyno.
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In the Subaru world intakes are put on all the time, and never needed. Ok there is one time when you need one, when the airflow from your stock airbox is not enough for your engine. These cars are designed to be safe and have great performance as they are from the factory.
Now I had a short ram style K&N on my 04 WRX and it sounded wicked as it sucked in air...but alas it was pointless.
Now I had a short ram style K&N on my 04 WRX and it sounded wicked as it sucked in air...but alas it was pointless.
just what i read
this is the 7th post (by JCS) on this thread https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ter-worth.html
"The main difference between normal and "oiled" filters is that the regular filters have dense , randomly arranged fibers which are designed to catch and retain the dirt particles.
In fact, a regular filter gets more "efficient" the dirtier it gets. The spaces for the dirt to get thru get smaller and it filters out ever smaller dirt particles.
Of course, eventually the engine has to suck harder to get the air thru and you lose performance and the filter needs to get replaced.
An oiled filter on the other hand works differently .
The fibers are arranged further apart.That's why there is less resistance for the air to get thru.
They work on the principle that dirt particles, being heavier than air , tend to keep going in a straight line . They then eventually "hit" one of the filter sides , and cling to the oil while the air passes by .
The drawbacks are that once the oil is coated with dirt particles, it can no longer hold any more and they wind up in the engine oil.
Also, if it's very humid outside ( raining etc. ) water molecules containing dirt particles will "roll off " the oil , and again the dirt winds up in the engine.
( oil and water does not mix very well )
Last, once the outside temperaturte drops below freezing, the oil viscosity changes and is less capable to retain the dirt .So they are definitely not for Alaska or Canada in the winter.
For these reasons ,even K&N has a big WARNING on their fiters not to use them in wet weather and colder temperatures. I just can't understand why otherwise reasonably intelligent people keep disregarding it for the sake of a few extra HP.
Keep in mind, we are talking about dirt particles measured in microns.
Eventually a lot of it builds up in the engine oil. Since it's so fine,
the oil filter does not retain it and it winds up being a great polishing compound. /Lol
If you change your engine oil very frequently , like every few thousand miles,
clean and re-oil it frequently and live in a warm climate where the viscosity is not affected , you should be OK .
I would not have a problem with occasional use on the track, but I for one will not use them on a daily basis.I like my engine.It's pretty tight and I want to keep it that way for as long as possible.
Hope this answers your question and if someone has further info ,any additional comments would be welcome. "
orig posted by JCS of NJ
this is the 7th post (by JCS) on this thread https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ter-worth.html
"The main difference between normal and "oiled" filters is that the regular filters have dense , randomly arranged fibers which are designed to catch and retain the dirt particles.
In fact, a regular filter gets more "efficient" the dirtier it gets. The spaces for the dirt to get thru get smaller and it filters out ever smaller dirt particles.
Of course, eventually the engine has to suck harder to get the air thru and you lose performance and the filter needs to get replaced.
An oiled filter on the other hand works differently .
The fibers are arranged further apart.That's why there is less resistance for the air to get thru.
They work on the principle that dirt particles, being heavier than air , tend to keep going in a straight line . They then eventually "hit" one of the filter sides , and cling to the oil while the air passes by .
The drawbacks are that once the oil is coated with dirt particles, it can no longer hold any more and they wind up in the engine oil.
Also, if it's very humid outside ( raining etc. ) water molecules containing dirt particles will "roll off " the oil , and again the dirt winds up in the engine.
( oil and water does not mix very well )
Last, once the outside temperaturte drops below freezing, the oil viscosity changes and is less capable to retain the dirt .So they are definitely not for Alaska or Canada in the winter.
For these reasons ,even K&N has a big WARNING on their fiters not to use them in wet weather and colder temperatures. I just can't understand why otherwise reasonably intelligent people keep disregarding it for the sake of a few extra HP.
Keep in mind, we are talking about dirt particles measured in microns.
Eventually a lot of it builds up in the engine oil. Since it's so fine,
the oil filter does not retain it and it winds up being a great polishing compound. /Lol
If you change your engine oil very frequently , like every few thousand miles,
clean and re-oil it frequently and live in a warm climate where the viscosity is not affected , you should be OK .
I would not have a problem with occasional use on the track, but I for one will not use them on a daily basis.I like my engine.It's pretty tight and I want to keep it that way for as long as possible.
Hope this answers your question and if someone has further info ,any additional comments would be welcome. "
orig posted by JCS of NJ
the other question would be:
is it even worth it? can i tell even a 3-5 hp gain?
car wont be tracked
i am not looking for a sound improvement.
just trying to figure out what's best for my car and get the most out of my car.
but looks expensive, as well..
any prices on this ? dyno? even a butt-dyno?

thx in adv
I bought mine back in 07 for my C2S . It is expensive but cheaper than the X51 which was something I also considered . I ended up getting a turbo after I was all done but i loved the setup . I just wanted the Turbo more.
You left off probably the best (and only) intake mod I'd do. Porsche OEM X51 intake. I will never again use an oiled filter in one of my cars - bad experience and it wasn't my fault (ie: Over-oil). Stock or X51.





