Originally Posted by Musclehedz101

This is what I bought last year but for the life of me can not find link to place i bought it from here in USA. It was under $30.00 and fits Porsche oil filter perfectly.

Oil Filter Cap Wrench Info:
WOLF'S HEAD model WH-903 L

Also has wing nuts on sides in case you need to use with slightly smaller oil filter casing.

BTW, I also bought LN Magnetic Drain plug w/ Oil filter spin-on adapter and will be installing at next oil change along with changing to Castrol 5W-40 from Mobil 1 0W-40.

Originally Posted by JEllis

I posted a while back that I would post my OCD oil change procedures.

The advantages of providing your M96 based engine with the best clean lubricants cannot be emphasized enough. The research performed by LN Engineering and backed up by Excellence magazine shows that the leading cause of IMS bearing failure and subsequent IMS failure is poor oil quality. There are many factors to consider from the type of oil you use to the frequency in which you replace it.

Do not believe the hype, Mobil 1 Euro blend is not the best oil you could be feeding your M96/7. And, 15K between oil changes is ridiculous.

So, to make sure I was giving my engine the best, I contacted LN Engineering and they provided me with their race filter conversion kit, magnetic drain plug, and advice on which oil to use.

First, I cannot express how easy it is to change your own oil. Save yourself $100 and do it yourself. The tools I purchased to complete this DIY paid for themselves after the first two oil changes and may be saving me an engine change later in life.

Tools I needed: Low profile jack or ramps, filter socket, hex bit in appropriate size, oil pan, and socket wrench. Electrical tape on your socket will protect your wheels for removal and is much cheaper than purchasing rubber coated sockets.

You guys that are doing the "wood plank trick" to get your floor jacks under your car really need to pick up one of these low profile jacks. My car is very low and I still have room to play with.








Suspension **** courtesy of GMG....


Race Filter, LN Adapter, new filter socket from Kragen ($5)


The Race filter just screws onto the adapter


Magnetic drain plug compared to stock


Oil of choice





When tightening the filter and drain plug, think hand tight. These do not have to be super tight and you DO NOT want to strip the threads on your engine block.

Nice looking metal filter is probably much more durable than the stock plastic housing


As far as adding oil goes. I would put in 8 quarts initially and then start the car and allow the engine to work up to operating temps. Shut down and get a reading. You are probably only 1/4 to 1/2qt's low at this point. The M97 has a 9qt system but you will only be able to drain just over 8qts. The rest is "trapped" oil. I over-filled every time so take my advice about the 8qts first. But, if your like me, and "over guess" how much you need to replace, just undo the filter again. The filter holds about 1/2qt. Much easier than redoing the whole process.

Finally, if you really want to get in the weeds you can cut open your stock filter and check for metal deposits. According to Excellence Magazine, pepper grain size metal deposits are normal but cracked pepper sized deposits may indicate a problem.





I think the pics tell the story but if you have any questions let me know.

Jason

Originally Posted by JEllis