I requested following spec for the street-use (occasional track-use) spec.

Front
-1.0 Camber for (left) and (right)
0.02 Toe for (left) and (right)

Rear
-1.5 Camber for (left) and (right)
0.14 Toe for (left) and (right)

However, my previous alignment spec is following:

Front
-1.3 Camber (left), -1.5 Camber (right)
-0.48 Toe (left), -0.47 Toe (right)

Rear
-2.5 Camber (left), -2.8 Camber (right)
0.31 Toe (left), 0.26 Toe (right)

Frankly, my previous alignment numbers were messed up.
Look at my previous Toe and Camber numbers

By the way, I thought -1.0 Camber for front was the maximum number I could get without GT3 LCA.
Was it because I lowered my car with Bilstein Damptronics?

Anyway, I will get back to -1.3 Camber later then
It handled better than -1.0 Camber spec. lol

 

get max possible neg. camber in front with 0 or 0.02 toe, set rear camber to -0.5 less than front. a whole degree of camber more (to be correct - less) in rear than in front is too much.

I am not sure how can you have -1.5deg in front with stock parts.

-1f -1.5r camber for street only should feel quite well. do not go for more than -2deg in rear.
i prefer to have more neg camber in front than in rear but with this you may loose your *** on a street if not careful.

 

I don't quite sure how I could have -1.3 and -1.5 Camber for front but those numbers are what I got before I had the alignment.
Anyway, I will lower the front a little bit more (5mm-7mm) and get -1.3 Camber degree for fronts again.
It felt secured and was responsive compare to -1.0 Camber degree now

 

Did you buy your car used? I did and found out on the alignment rack that I had GT3 LCAs on already! i was happy about that!

 

Yes, I did. But how can I tell whether I already have GT3 LCAs or not?
I know I can find out once my car is on the alignment rack but I want to know before I go to alignment shop lol
Are those stock ones and GT3 LCAs visually distinguishable? Do you have any picture of them?

 

Well, if you can get more then -1.0 camber then you may have them or just look at the part # on the LCA. When I put mine on the rack it already had -2.5 so I knew something was up. I'm sure someone on here has the GT3 LCA part numbers.

 

Yes lowering the car will allow slightly more negitive camber. -1.4 for the street is fine. It is too much toe that eats tires more so than camber.

 

if he can set -1.5 degree on both sides in front perhaps he can set same
-1.5deg in rear. should be fine for street.

it is really an interesting choice, i mean camber by itself - like i used to have -1f and -1.5r, then -2.3f -1.8r, now -3f -2.5r.
honestly i think I like current setup the best for track when i have very wide rubber in rear (335) but on winter street tires (235/265) car has a lot of oversteer.

with -1f -1.5r when I was running auto-x i constantly had to struggle with car not going into a corner. intermediate -2.3f was a bit better but i remember i used to spin car a lot for some reason during that time, with current setup it feels like on rails, i do not think i had a single spin yet, turning stability is definitely better but in straight line it feels like it is a bit too much camber, so, I guess it is a thin line.

what should set a limit here - in rear axle with stock parts keeping 0.10 toe one can get max of -1.8 or -2 deg of camber. i think for a street car it would be a bit better to have rear axle more stable than front, essentially to have some understeer - means more (or same) camber in rear than in front. -1.5f -1.5r would work, or -1.5f -1.8r perhaps.

 

To be honest, after I re-aligned Camber degrees of -1F and -1.5R (I had -1.5F before), I feel like its handling is not that responsive and secure anymore when I push it hard in corners.

I would try -1.3F and -1.8R later.
I will see how it handles

 

the GT3 LCA that allow the advanced camber are two-piece, having shims in the split section to provide the additional camber (a 1mm shim adds 1/10 of a degree camber)
Just click on a board sponsor retailer (TPC, Suncoast ect.) for pictures.