I have been planning to purchase a 2006-2008 c2 997 (non-s) for years. Finally have the money and have been doing serious research over the past few months. I am finally ready to make my purchase once i find the right car.

I spotted a potential and did my first test drive this weekend. I'm hooked ! It was an '07 997 c2 (non-s). It was in my price range, from a local dealer, however lacked the bells and whistles I want. I am not picky, however do not want the absolute base model.

The test drive was great; hit a few side streets and them took it on the highway (Cali highways can be fun). I drove it like i normally do, switched 2 lanes at once, had it over 100mph, etc. The salesman seemed scared, i laughed. I was interested in feeling it's true handling and power, I was happy with it’s torque even over 60mph. So the test drive went great, as mentioned, I am hooked and plan to make my purchase when i find the right one. This car was not the that, it was very base model. Only upgrade it had were power seats (didn't even have heated seats). When I stopped at a light (after beating it up on the highway) it smelt like burn oil. However 2 minutes later when I arrived at the dealer and parked, I popped the hood in rear and did not smell oil. Is this normal (Oil smell at high oil pressure)? The car had low miles and it also ticked a bit. I know this to be bad from all past experiences. Seeing that I am not that familiar with sports cars, is this also normal (I don’t think so but worth asking)? This car only had 7k miles on it.
I felt that this first test drive was very beneficial for me, it sparked alot of questions in my mind, things to look, ask, history on the car, etc. I have never bought a used car in the past (all new) and this being a $50k + car will be my most expensive.

I'll need a small loan, so am contemplating getting my own auto loan from a credit union and rolling into the dealer with financing taken care of, however hear that now a days the dealers get decent kickback from the banks when folks use their financing. Which would allow me to get the better deal?
I know the basics of what to look for and negotiate from, does anyone have any specific things i should be looking for (wheel well damage from previous accident, engine smells, negotiating tactics, etc? I am looking at this as an investment as well and only want to get a CPO. Would –S have a better resell appeal years later? I will probably hold onto this for 4-5 years.

Thank you in advance

 

those cars are great but I would not treat it as a serious investment...
'S' car has better resale potential and is more marketable. if you intend to rebuild car you buy into a racing horse - it does not matter 'S' or not 'S'.

 

Thanks, i dont mean an investment in terms of making money on it, but i do want to get something that will hold it's value better comparitively.
I also planto mod it as well. I will be a purchase not lease so depending on how funds go, i plan to mod it pretty heavily

 

if you have $60K-$70K to spend you have a lot of options, so, do your research wisely. 997.1 cars are simple, you can also find 996 GT3 for that money or '09 997.2 C2.

for under $50K budget - most likely 997.1 cars only. search on ebay for completed listings - it will give you an idea how much people bid on right now and what is on the market. good low mileage cars will cost extra.

and treat CPO status as on obligatory option.

 

Just so you know -- Buying a Porsche is actually a negative financial investment. Modding it only compounds the loss . Financing it adds whipped cream and a cherry to the loss .

The ONLY reason to buy the car = enjoyment .

The "S" is better in resale but it's still 30 percent off a new car in the first year and about 20 percent off a used car (at current used prices).

I love these cars but I will be honest with you and say that with any car some novelty will erode with time. The dream of having the great car has to come with being able to sleep at night with the financial security that it didn't set you back enough to create worry.

Debating whether to choose the credit union vs Porsche financial is merely discussing small change compared to the loss when evaluating cost to own. selling or trading it in or facing a big repair .
The same can be said with S vs Non S.

The test drive is the honeymoon phase and it's a great thing .. just look at all aspects of the lionge term and if this car is the right move for you --
Congrats !

 

Always have your own financing in place when you go to buy. If the dealer can offer more competitive rates, take theirs, but at least that is one other thing that you don't have "figure" out or think too much about - keep that issue separate from the car. I think also you will be taken more seriously if you already know how you can buy the car.

Dealers often like to muddle all the numbers together: purchase, trade-in, financing, etc. to present you with a "payment" number. It is easy to lose track of the details like that. That's why if you have your financing in advance, it is much clearer what deal you are getting.

Sometimes they really want the finance business, so even if their numbers aren't as good as yours (credit union), they'll take the difference of interest over the length of the loan and discount your car so that it works out the same for you. Bring your laptop and Excel - so you can check it all out on the spot.

Good luck in your search.

 

Thx.
Enjoyment is my #1 reason for going with a porsche.

Any porsche specific used-car buying tips? things i should look for; mechanically, be werry of, common shady practices by dealers, etc?

 

Excellent advise. Most (if not all) car service centers have free wifi. Good call!

 

search this forum for PPI, DME terms - there is ton of info.

i would not buy a used car from a dealer. it only adds to losses.

 

Please try to drive more responsibly. The idea of you driving over 100 mph in a P car your first time out, and zooming across two lanes of highway on a California freeway, is as disturbing to me as it was to your salesperson.

 

Here's a few things that will help you :

1) Inspection -- If the car is private sale or independent lot --take it to a Porsche dealership for a PPI . Request a DME scan . This old thread (page 2 ) explains it . https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-over-rev.html

2) Finding the car can be hard. Unlike a new car where one can be very picky with color and options the used car factors in miles , wear , age, and price . The more variables means the buyer may have to compromise on something because its hard to find it all .

3) California is a great region in terms of supply and is also one of the competive price regions. At least you won't have to travel.

4) Financing --Porsche does offer occasional programs . I did not see any listed on their website . My feeling is to pay cash is king and i also feel that the more one spends going into the car .. the less regrets about a missed option, newer car, more warranty, less repair expense .

5) If used .. look at the rear tires . They wear fast and are expensive .

6) Paint -- If a car is dinged or dented it is important that the damage extent and quality of repair is disclosed . If it's minor --like a scratch or dent .. it can knock a few bucks off the car (1500-2500) . If it's major where the structural integrity is compromised .. no deal.

7) Hidden damage -- The number one culprit is water damage . Be very aware of a car whuich was bought at auction out of a flood zone. Water damage does not show up on a carfax .

8) New Vs Used -- This is the last week of the year and if there ever was a time to buy a new car this is it. It does mean finding the car you like at a dealership who is eager to sell that unit to close out the annual sales .
With used cars .. the market pricing is high . It's less than it was three months ago but no where near where it was a year ago .

Good luck.

 

Financing cars is a financial disaster. The interest rate may say 6%, but that's for the entire term. Those first year payments are 1/3 interest! What a hose job.

And for Pete's sake, get a CPO car to limit your downside.

 

...I drove my C2S to work this morning as usual...

You will rarely those kinds of posts - anywhere. I have a 05, C2S with PCCBs and no warranty. If the rotors go, I'll go to steel. If the engine goes due to IMS, another one gets put in. Know the costs going forward - this forum will certainly help you make a decision. There are some pre-owned cars out there with seven year factory warranty. One thing is for sure, looking for a used one can be time consuming. I went through a handful and sent each one to an indy for a PPI. That said, the car can fail at any time - unlike my 20 year old Toyota. Good luck.

 

I would recommend you investing your money in Hookers and Blow. Based on your description of your test drive, you do not need to have a license.

 

Not looking for advice on my driving.

No disrespect, but if i am going to spend 50-60k on a car, i want to know whats it's got.