We use PMU pads for our ALMS cup cars.

 

I run my RUF 550 Rturbo at HPR also and this has been my experience. I initially had 350mm front rotors with the large 6 piston front and 330mm rear rotors with 4 piston calipers, stock cooling ducts, Motul RBF600 brake fluid and Pagid Yellow pads. I felt like the brakes were Ok but did fade a little at the end of a 25 minute session. I did manage to boil the Motul fluid one time when it was about 3 months old. Since then, I would bleed the brakes before every event. I felt like the Pagid yellows were ok on the track but lousy on the street - horrible noise and dust and lousy bite cold. I ended up overhauling my brakes and this is what I run currently. I changed the stock iron OEM rotors to 350mm girodisc fully floating front and rear rotors. I added the large GT3 cup car cooling ducts in the front (see picture) and the GT2 cooling ducts in the rear. I think that getting cool air to the brakes is HUGELY important. I would strongly recommend the CUP car ducts especially running at HPR which is hard on the brakes. I also flushed the brake system and went to Endless RF650 fluid which is now standard equipment in the Porsche Cup cars as it replaced the Carstol SRF they ran previously. The Endless fluid has extremely low compressibility and is non hygroscopic so that it does not attract water and will last a lot longer than the Motul. I bleed about every 3 months with the Endless fluid for track work. Cost is about $35/0.5liters. The result is a much firmer pedal than compared to the Motul. I also went to the Endless MX72 brake pads. I am extremely pleased with the result. I have no more fading even when running hard for the full 25 minute session. The Endless pads have a great bite (a little more than the Pagids) and I have not had any fade as the pedal feels just as solid on the last lap as it does on the first. At the track they are quiet but dust like a bandit naturally. On the street I get zero noise and almost no dust. They warm up very quickly on the street, essentially one brake application. I also do NOT use the OEM noise shims as they are useless at the track since they melt. I just apply some of the purple 2500 degree F solid particle brake grease to the back of the pads. I am absolutely amazed at the performance of the Endless pads. After 4 hours of track time the rear pads look new and the fronts look like they are at about 80% or so. I initially wanted to go with the Endless ME20s but they were out of stock so I gave the MX72s a shot and for running 30 minute sessions they have been flawless. For endurance races the ME20 would undoubtedly be better. I also would not bother with SS lines as they are a gimmick. Porsche Cup cars use stock OEM rubber brake lines so if its good for them, its good for me. The rubber likes are not rubber anyway. They have a composite mesh core encased in rubber. As a point of reference, my car has 550hp/575tq and I am at about 145mph at the end of the straight into turn 4. I run about 2:05min laps. The car is a lot more capable than I am currently. If you have any questions feel feel free to drop me a note. I live near Cherry Creek Mall....

 

EXACTLY WHAT I WS LOOKING FOR!!!!! Thanks for the info. I have future plans to go "brake overhaul" like you have done (I am jealous), but for now I have gone the route of improved fluid and pads (cheap route). Flushed the 2 year old fluid, went with the EBS yellowstuff pads for now. I never thought about improving the cooling ducts. MMMMMMM, wonder how that applies to an otherwise stock 997.2 C2S?? Where would I go/who would I talk to to discuss how it could be done. Are the additional ducts directly fitting, or does a lot of modification need to happen. I am sure I will see you at HPR one of these days (need to check out your car!!) Thanks again for the information. Maybe HPR is different than other tracks, but there is NO WAY stock pads are "safe" after the first 3-4 laps in a session.

 

The large cooling ducts are a huge improvement since heat is the biggest enemy to the brakes. You want the cup car ducts as the stock 997 or GT3 ducts are tiny in comparison. If you look at the picture of the ducts in the earlier post you will see that where the rivets are is the standard OEM duct and the GT3 Cup ducts rivet the lower scoop onto it making it much more effective. Basically Porsche makes the CUP ducts by riveting a deeper lower scoop onto the OEM ducts. I shot you a PM with my number if you want to discuss it further. The ducts are a direct plug in with no mods needed. Also run without PSM on the track and that will help with not cooking the rear brakes....

 

I second the guy with the Ruf550. Stock porsche pads are good relatively speaking but will not hold up under 20 minutes of track duty. Your hardware is good but need pads with a higher temp rating. Also, in my experience my Carbotech xp-12 track pads do not have near the bite cold as they do hot but still are not "dangerous" as some will say. In fact, I would say they still have more bite than the stock pads cold. The only downfall of track pads is lots of dust and noise. But, anyone who has ever had brake failure on track would likely trade off noise for performance. When I hear someone pull up beside me with noisy brakes on the street I know they've either roasted their stock pads or have put in track pads. Either way it means they are having fun and driving their car the way it was meant to be and I give them a big smile

 

I agree I just tracked last week at NJMP lighting with the Pagid yellow r29 for the first time and they were unbelievable. I hit 130 braked right uphill with no fade, brake peddle was hard car and it was easier to turn. definitely the way to go. The only thing is they are very loud when driving around town I may get a set of OEM pads and use them and put the pagids on when I track.

 

Castrol SRF once per year (6 track days)
Pagid Yellow pads
GT3 brake ducts

Never had any fade issues at BIR or Road America.

I switch to street pads when not on the track.

 

Change your breaklines to Stainless Steel, Change Fluid, and Change to Pagid Yellows. I haven't had any fade with my brakes with this combo.

 

I'm on my second set of Pagid RS19 with one year...no complaints. They do squeal around town but if you wash your car on a regular basis they're quiet for a week or two. After a track event they are quiet for two solid weeks. Beware though, after a washing there isn't much bite or power.

 

I just picked up my T4S from the tuner where it spent the past 2 weeks getting brake and suspension work done. In went set of new MPSS, RSS LCA's, H&R sways, stainless lines, GT3 ducts, new rotors, fresh fluid and Pagid RS19s. (Full review to follow after some street and track driving).

Let me tell you the Pagids squeal loudly on the 1 hr trip home -- mix of highway and city! (59 degrees today and didn't really get to warm them up). I expected as much and will probably swap to stock pads after the final 3 track days of the year coming up.

 

Do a brake flush with some decent brake fluid, then replace the stock pads with something like Performance Friction or Pagid (they will be noisy) and when the stock rotors are cooked switch to Slotted rotors because they don't crack so easily and last much longer

 

Kona, very cool...good job!

When I first did the whole new set-up, rotors pads, etc...they squealed like a suck pig. It was really bad. However, after getting them bedded-in properly and a track day in, things calmed down. I did end up pulling the rears out and put some red squeal stop in between the pad and the shims...seems to help quite a bit.

See bedding-in post #20:

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-re-11s-2.html

 

Thanks v much Daren! Will bed-in first thing tomorrow before taking on some twisties. Got some great advice on this board re suspension and really looking forward to finishing the season at NJMP in 2 weeks with the new setup. I'm taking my little brother with me this time (he'll be running in green with my car ). So with effectively 6 track days on the calendar, I felt yellows were in order. And the GT3 ducts are kind of a no-brainer at $30/pair. Stainless lines are cheap insurance too given how hot it got here last summer.

Major priority for me when the season ends is to learn some DIY -- especially pad swaps and brake flushes.

 

Aren't you impossible enough to catch already...jeez...you don't make it easy on the old guy.

See you there

 

!! that's what my lil bro is there for...

to make us both feel faster!

looking forward pal. 3 days on thunderbolt is a nice way to go out for the year.