I need some help. I took my 09C2S to High Plains Raceway in Byers, CO, and now I am hooked. Only problem, getting to 131 mph, then braking to 90 just before turn 4 has proved to me that the standard "S" brakes on my car (same ones that were on a 996 turbo) are not going to be good enough. After 5-6 laps of trailbraking into the corners to set the car, noticable brake fade begins to occur. Not something I want to have happening at speeds over 130. Now I know track brakes are noisy, and they don't work as well at low temps (not DOT approved), but should I be switching to track brake pads?? Or should I change them each time (how hard is this?). And which ones do people prefer and why? My standard brakes were so affected anyway, that now when driving, a medium force "sweetspot howl" occurs. If I am going to have noise, may as well be with better brakes. Any thoughts?

 

Hard to say since I wasn't your instructor, but I gotta say it sounds like you weren't braking hard enough. Hence, the howl afterward. I have stock brakes on my S and odds are I'm going deeper into corners than you are, but I've never had any sign of brake fade.

Gary

 

The S brakes are definitely up to the task for the average Joe. Something may be wrong.

 

You might want to switch to something on the order of Motul RBF600 brake fluid. That and stock brake pads can be pushed pretty far.

 

Definitely do a brake flush if you haven't done one in awhile. I use a Motive bleeder and Motul RBF 600

http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-Bleeder-Adapters-European/dp/B0002KM5L0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1317531470&sr=8-1

You can find the DIY online. It is quite easy.

I would also go to some Pagid Yellow brake pads if you plan on tracking it regularly. Contact Craig at Rennstore http://rennstore.com/ Craig O'Brien <craigcarolann@comcast.net> They are quite easy to change out ahead of time and switch back afterwards. They make a big difference in pedal feel and initial bite. Much better than stock. Good luck

 

I've read that these style pressure bleeders can introduce air into the brake fluid. I have one of these units but I'm not sure if I should use it.

 

Brake flush, replace with high temp fluid
Swap pads for a more agressive compound
Consider stainless steel brake lines

Other than that, you should be fine or you possibly have an issue. I used a 2002 M3 with stock calipers and rotors for a few years with SS lines, fluid and upgraded pads and the brakes performed great. Porsche brakes are far superior than BMW brakes.

 

yes...brake flush for sure.

then pads...

I use the pagid sports blue pads....good compromise for street and track...and for my level of ability.

 

I know several people who sue these to do a solo brake flush. Never heard of any issues if used correctly.

 

I swear by Pagid Orange on my other track cars, and I assume they'd be great with the 997. However, they are unsafe on the street due to the need to warm up

I agree with the above. Start with better fluid, bleed before each event. Then swap to track pads. Then you should be fine.

 

I've used the Motive for quite some time without any problems. I don't put the fluid in the bottle. Instead I top up the brake reservoir. The key here is don't run it dry. If you flush at least once a year I don't believe the minuscule amount of air one could induce into the brake fluid from a 10-12 psi gauge pressure would be an issue. Note, I am not promoting a once a year flush if you are doing multiple events.

 

Pagid yellow pads; they can squeal around town, but have heard that shims reduce this. All I know is that if you are going fast and need to stop, they work well.

 

I use performance friction PF01 or PF97. They squeal like crazy but will never fade and have very high hot coefficient of friction. With R compounds and the 911's rear weight bias, they'll make your eyes pop out lap after lap. Fine on the street other than the squeal and needing much more brake pressure than stock pads when cold. But they'll brake fine. I swap them (and track wheels) at home before track events and back to street setup when I come home.

 

Keep it coming!!! I will do the flush and better fluid ASAP. Recs on fluid types?? On a scale of 1-10, is this project under a 4 or so?? I don't mind DIY projects, but ones that take too much effort are the ones I usually pay for. I like the idea of doing it regularly, say a couple times a year, especially as I start to spend more time on the track. If done enough, I am sure it would become a simple job. After all, in todays cars, maintenance is just too boring. Cars used to need more attention, and that was part of what made them fun. I would like to avoid the desires to keep modding, ie brakes, then track tires, then better suspension, etc, etc, etc Then the desire for a GT3 (LOLOLOLOL). I really was very happy with how the car handles, the first 4 laps, but then I started to notice some brake fading.

 

I have had no issues with Motive power bleeder and I have used it on multiple cars over the years. You will want a bleeder bottle too to catch the old brake fluid http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-11...er-bottle.aspx (I like the one with the magnet). Once you do the flush, you can recycle the oil for free at any local garage.

Motul RBF600 or Castrol SRF are great fluids (Motul is my pref due to cost and my good experiences with it). Brake pads are an easy swap in/out so you can get those without getting totally hooked on the mod bug But then you might want R compounds Definitely call Craig as he will give you the full scoop on procedures/pads/etc.

I do a brake flush after the winter is over (takes me about 1 hour, perhaps 2 the first time you do it). DON'T FORGET TO FLUSH BOTH INNER AND OUTER SIDES OF THE CALIPER. Since I have the wheel off to do the bleed, I usually use the opportunity to change the pads if there is a track day (I release the pressure on the motive after I have bled the brakes so that I can push the calipers back and pop in the track pads)

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FYI I use a channel lock pliers (water pump pliers) and they work fine. No need for a caliper spreader.