There are photos of your crank pully and bolt and pictures of the over rev ranges out of your DME. I did not post the next two pictures of the range 6 revs with the VIN in the picture and the VIN plate from your car for privacy.

You were told that we could attempt to repalce the pully and see if it would center on the crank and if it would we would need to drop the engine down to drill the locating pin out and install a new one.


If a new pully would not center we have to replace the crank. But given the engine was over heated we COULD find cylinder damage that can not be fixed

and the cost of a new engine

Furthermore, you could not sale your old engine as Porsche would charge a core charge if the old engine is not returned.

 

Looks to me that there were 2 major events of over rev:

@523h Ranges 1,2,3,4
@514h Ranges 1,2,3,4,5

Providing that DME is true, I don't think owner has much of case to have Porsche subsidize repair. Given that engine has 524 hours, that means engine had up to range 4 12 minutes before failing.

 

As a customer of Porsche of Chattanooga since 2008, I just want to point out that the OP needs to check some facts before blabbering this kind of vitriol. He says they have no used inventory; well, just check their website, at least 6 used 911s and others.

 

OP's defense here is that he could not have over revved the motor because he does not know how to shift properly. I wish him well but you have to think that perhaps his poor shifting might have contributed to this nightmare. As was previously alluded to if there is an engine failure within 40 running hours of a major overrev there is an assumption of causation. Someone driving appears to have damaged this motor. Perhaps he would do better with a less demanding replacement vehicle. The theory that the dealer is making stuff up to rip him off is the least believable theory of all to me. Good luck to everbody involved here.

 

Check last pics. I don't think I've ever seen range 6 over revs before. Sad.

 

Sorry to hear of your situation. That said, if you don't get the help from Porsche and want to save a few bucks, this could be an interesting option.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3GXpKRTCIw&feature=player_embedded#!

http://www.renegadehybrids.com/
http://www.modernautomotiveparts.com...k-crate-engine

 

The fact that there are over revs in ranges 5 and 6 in themselves should alleviate anytype of coverage from Porsche.

 

Wow. Looks like OP missed a shift and chose to ignore it instead going to the dealer.

 

Please don't consider this as "piling on". But why would you buy a 911 with a manual transmission if you didn't know how to properly operate a manual transmission? I learned on a $900 1972 Fiat, not $XX,XXX Porsche. I guess some schools are more expensive than others.

I do hope you get through this, but I think you're sunk.

 

And he's trying to use this forum to pressure the dealer to make an unwarranted repair maybe? I for one am glad the dealer (sirclip?) posted the pics.

 

Ok, I'm going to straighten some things out because I don't want this thread to turn into an argument between myself and Porsche of Chattanooga nor do I want it to look like I'm trying to slander against Porsche or the dealership. I started this thread because I drove my car rarely and babied it when I drove it, and I am upset I've only driven my car 11,000 miles since I purchased it in 2008 and am told I have to pay $20,000 to repair damage done to the engine. As anyone else would expect this issue has been on my mind ever since it happened early this week and I am trying my very best to understand everything.

If I had driven my car hard and purposely pushed it beyond it's limits I would not have created this thread and would have just paid to put a new engine in it. I'm not ignorant on how engines work and understand that pushing any engine to it's limit will cause the weakest part of the motor to fail. I have never dropped the clutch to try to spin out the vehicle (it's AWD anyway and I doubt I could get it to even if I wanted) nor do I know how to shift down to slow the vehicle down, I have only ever shifted down to speed the vehicle up like to pass someone or when going up a steep road.

The reason I am confused is because the mechanics at Porsche made it very clear that it is impossible for the RPMs to reach those ranges unless you down shift the vehicle. It is this which is causing me to question everything because this statement severely contradicts my driving style. I understand completely how shifting down will force the vehicle to go beyond the revs harming the engine. I just cant understand how I was able to get the vehicle to surpass 7,000 RPM so frequently that the engine is blown within 20,000 miles. I've driven a stick shift for 100,000 miles and I have missed a gear in my other car and know what it is like - there is a sudden jerk as the car slows down and a very loud whine from the engine revs. If I were to downshift the Porsche and it reached those RPMs I am certain the car would have let me know as the engine is very loud and I'm sure it would have felt like I slammed on the brakes.

But, after typing this I am wondering if it is possible that the mechanism within the car's engine/computer to limit the revs (preventing engine harm) was damaged or malfunctioning. Is there anyway to test this?



SirClip - Thanks for posting the information, that helps out a lot. I'm not trying to be a jerk or to come off insulting. I am just very frustrated at the moment that my $60,000 car needs a $20,000 repair when I don't do things to it to jeopardize the integrity of the vehicles engine.

For those who don't know, SirClip is clearly associated with the Porsche dealer of Chattanooga as they have posted information associated with my vehicle on the forum.

As for my statement claiming that Porsche of Chattanooga did not sell used vehicles, I was going by what I was told by them when I was looking for Porsche's to purchase a few years ago. I was making this comment to emphasize that they are not a large Porsche dealership.

To everyone else - I am not trying to get in a fight with the dealership. Even though I did not purchase my Porsche from them I have used them to service my Porsche since my purchase including two oil changes and new tires with no complaints. I have also purchased another vehicle from them in November 2010 (they sell other cars besides Porsche).

The only reason I am frustrated with the dealership is because between the information the car is giving them and the information I am giving them, they are siding with the car 100% instead of taking what the customer is telling them into consideration. No matter how hard or sincerely I tried to tell them I did not downshift my car to force the RPMs in that range frequently enough to cause engine damage, they would tell me I was wrong, and that it was impossible for it to be any other way. I understand how no one is perfect and that maybe I did miss a gear once or twice without knowing, but the reports they showed me would mean I was severely missing gears on a frequent basis.

 

I know how to shift quite well. I just never learned how to downshift to slow the vehicle down, therefore I use the brake. Like I said, I don't drive the vehicle hard, so there really is no point for me to learn how to downshift unless I'm going to speed up. I've driven my other car (Subaru WRX) 80,000+ miles and it is a stick shift with no issues (knock on wood).

Yes, which is why i was so confused because that is such a high range of RPM for me to be unaware of that I hit in the vehicle. Even if you accidentally get a cars RPM to 6,000, you know immediately. Range 6 in in excess of 9,500+ RPM. I don't understand how I could have hit that RPM range without knowing it.


I don't understand why everyone is thinking this. I've told you everything the dealer told me in the first posts. He just confirmed what I already said. I would have posted the same information had the dealer given it to me initially, which is why I thanked them for posting it.

 

My understanding of the report was that there was a major money shift in the 6 range not long ago and another serious money shift into range 5 shortly before the engine went. I think unless you can show that the DME report is either erroneous or fraudulent.... your outa luck.

I suppose you could do the research and ask for the DME report from the place you bought it. You should have looked at it prior to purchase. If it was there when you purchased it and they sold it CPO'd like that maybe you have a case against them?

 

You can not over rev the engine to those ranges because the rev limiter will not allow it. Even if there were no limiter, the record shows driver abuse.

The rev limiter can do nothing about a missed downshift and there is no protection mechanism for a missed downshift other than a quick left foot - but often it is already too late.

Someone abused the car based on the records. I don't even think Northvan can condone this type of driving

Perhaps, you can pull the DME from the dealer that CPOd the car like others have already suggested and compare?

 

I see no reason to believe the dealer faked that screen, and I'd need some serious evidence to credit that idea. The DME is just a report from the engine computer of the "significant events" as defined by the engineers at the factory when they spec'ed the code development. I do think I need to check the explanation given me by my own dealer because that yields two events: the most recent one lasted 21 seconds over redline and the engine reached about 8000 rpm. (Actually, a min of 7900 according to data I've read here.) The second event was earlier and reached range six. (Note the final screen, Tito.)

The more significant event was about 400 miles ago. (Give or take. No data on average speed for the OP's car, but most Porsches show 35-40 mph average.) The most recent event was the one that caused the visible damage. Or at least it caused the belt to be thrown which finally caused symptoms noticed by the OP and the driver at the time.

I'm surprised the car wasn't showing symptoms after that first incident. The reason I need to check the explanation I've been given is that the arithmetic is simple, but I can't quite picture a scenario where the engine stays above redline that long in one event. No matter. The important data are clear: the ignitions above redline total 7952 at 523.8 hours, and another 800 skipped ignitions at speeds up to 9500 at 514 hours. I'm surprised the car doesn't have a con rod sticking out of the block.

Gary