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V1 Hardwire HELP

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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 09:51 PM
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V1 Hardwire HELP

I tried to hardwire my V1 this evening through my fuse box, I could not get it to work for the life of me!

I grounded the (-) on the screw by the throttle (there was DIY in which the author chose his - grounding)

I fuse tapped the (+) via C5 (tip, which I dont use since mine is a 6-speed)

I also tried fuse tapping C1, A1, C3 and C4, nothing worked.

I plugged the V1 in the cigarette outlet, and everything worked fine, so i know it not the unit itself.

PLEASE HELP!!!


 
Old Mar 2, 2012 | 10:15 PM
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does your hardwire kit really work? is there an inline fuse that may be blown?
 
Old Mar 2, 2012 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by djantlive
does your hardwire kit really work? is there an inline fuse that may be blown?
The hardwire works, I dont think there is any fuse involved
 
Old Mar 2, 2012 | 11:12 PM
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On my car I used Fuse # 6 in Row C. I also used the bolt that held the fusebox in for ground.

F6 in Row C is for Rear Window Wiper in a 2009 C4S and is switched. Hope that helps.
 

Last edited by lowpue; Mar 2, 2012 at 11:51 PM.
Old Mar 3, 2012 | 07:45 AM
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Would try two things, first use the ground lowpue suggests. If that doesn't solve your problem change out the fuse tap you used and replace it with a Bussmann ATM Fuse tap. The power connection is far superior to one you used.
I used C5 as well with no issues so it's got to be ground or power connection if the wire itself is functioning properly.
 

Last edited by Dadio; Mar 3, 2012 at 07:57 AM.
Old Mar 3, 2012 | 08:36 AM
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I suggest looking for another ground point. A lot of bolts going to some chassis point may not be really ground. Some might be painted or coated which of course is non-conductive.

With the same +12V point probe around w/ the -12V wire to various chassis points until you find one that is a true ground.
 
Old Mar 3, 2012 | 12:02 PM
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C5 used here too. There is an in line fuse in V1 hardwire kit - old style tube as I recall.

Not to overstate the obvious but definitely move ground to GP next to fuse panel. Also, if you used a switched line (which I suggest) make sure car is on when testing. Since V1 has inline fuse, tap from bottom (in side) of fuse slot. There are a few different options.

Finally, make sure your phone cable from hardwire to unit is good and in the unit side of plug not accessory.
 
Old Mar 5, 2012 | 08:04 AM
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Are you using a V1 phone cord or a cheapie you bought somewhere else? I would be that is your problem. Some on the cheap cord out there have very little copper in them and the V1 won't function.
 
Old Mar 5, 2012 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by function12
...Some on the cheap cord out there have very little copper in them and the V1 won't function.
Agreed, thus my suggestion to make sure cable is good. Plus, most std home phones only use 1 pair (the middle). A lot of cheap cords out there only have the 1 pair in them. They will cross the wires sometimes too... for phone w/ 1 pair, it's really not all that important. With the V1, it is important to have all 4 wires (good guage) and make sure the colors/wires are in correct order on both ends...

Good luck
 
Old Mar 5, 2012 | 09:16 AM
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From the V-1 web site:

Making your own Power Cord
Valentine One uses standard RJ-11 (modular) telephone
connectors. You can use any telephone cable (the one that
runs from the wall jack to the phone) for a power cord.
Complete cables are available in many lengths at electrical
or building-supply stores.
You can also make your own power cord using bulk phone
cable cut to whatever length you choose. To attach the
RJ-11 connectors, you will need a special attaching tool.
Bulk phone cables, loose connectors, and the attaching tool
are available in most electrical or building-supply stores.
NOTE: The sequence of wires must be reversed from one
end to the other
 
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