So I took the 2007 997S the other day to the this Dyno place in Hayward, CA.....Got my results and wow was I disappointed....Not that I have major mods...But you would think the mods would add something....I've attached the results in the image below....These are the mods I have right now...the only thing I lack is a ecu tune...which I probably won't get as the Dealers are really **** about a ecu tune and screwing you out of stuff inregards to any warranty issues...

The cars rated at 355 stock...After looking through several threads....300 RWHP is stock...He performed 3 runs and they were 292, 299 and 300

Any ideas....I figured these mods would be worth about 10-15hp overstock...

Mods..

NHP X-51 style headers
Fabspeed Cat bypass
Fabspeed Catback high flow exhaust system
BMC Airfilter
The Car just had a 60k mile tuneup 300 miles ago (New plugs, Oil Change, Ignition Coils)

 

I ve read some lately about different DYNO s having differences of up tp 60 hp on the same high HP car.. So I won t be worried about. You needed the numbers before the mods and then again after the mods on the same dyno....

 

Dynos will read differently, the only way to really tell improvements are to have a before and after. Some mustang dynos read much lower than dyno jet ones (as much as 15% lower) So unless you have a before for your car, or one just like it, with similar conditions (like outside air temp and humidity) you can't really draw any conclusions.

IMHO the 1/4 mile is a better benchmark, your trap speeds are a pretty good barometer, even of your launches are not the greatest.

X...

 

what type of dyno? let's say if it is a most popular dynojet, then maybe your numbers should have been a bit higher, maybe closer to 310 rwhp. There are many variables to take into consideration and each car is different.

The best thing to do is to dyno the car prior to any mods and get whatever number and then mod it to see the gains...

 

It's possible that all of your mods have just moved the tq and hp curves around a bit. I put a set of headers and mufflers on my 93 RSA and actually lost hp.

 

Along with the stated needed before and after numbers, this is also true. Sometimes, you really can't beat team of engineers as far as getting the most out of a car. Again, the keyword here is "sometimes".

From what I understand, the factory engineers take into account HP and reliability/longetivity. After-tuners attempt to give you back the HP at the expense of something else.

Don't kill the messenger here.... At least that's the BS that I was told and I somewhat don't believe them.

 

Mustang Dyno machines run lower than Dynojet. Don't know if that means Mustang Dynos are more accurate or not.

 

As others mentioned, dynos are only useful when you have a baseline. It's also exceedingly hard to squeeze more power out of a highly strung NA motor with just some exhaust mods. With a retune you might be able to get the 10-15hp you were hoping for.

 

HP is an the overused value and only gives one the idea of power. It's far more usable to increase power across the rpm range, even if peak power doesn't reflect the full extent of change. Also, the ability of the engine to develop power (more quickly) isn't something a dyno would illustrate. The point is to increase the usefulness of power, and your mods have probably accomplished that, albeit marginally. The torque curve matters most, and the ability of the car to accelerate most efficiently includes throttle response and traction in the equation. Grip is often less considered in the pursuit of increased performance, although it can deliver measurably more than engine mods. Don't worry, your car is quick and more than adequate for street use.

Because I live in South Texas and drive often on older, gripless roads. More power actually makes accelerating more quickly, much more difficult. I don't need more power ... I need more grip! Performance tires last a long time on these roads.

 

You remind me of what I learned from one of the tire manufacturers' slogan/ads...... "Power is useless without control!"

 

So your running different headers, and different exhaust while bypassing the cat and you have no aftermarket tuning to support this?

Um..Duh.

 

I learned the hard way with my E46 M3 about bolt on performance mods and was disappointed. Aside from headers and high flow cats i got rid of the rest and went f/i. any other so called "performance" mods are a waste and likely result in diminished performance. As others said you should have dyno'd your car before bolting stuff on.

 

I wasn t going to go down this road until I saw above post... A aftermarket tune , IMO, has always been the best bang for the buck as far as performance gains... That being said,, Tunes on my GM stuff is only a few hundred dollars. I would guess a tune on the 911 s might be considerable more $.

 

Ok...So I'll get the tune done...I was thinking APR....I was just worried about the warranty....It expires in 7/2013....Would the tune affect the warranty at all...Any suggestions on any other tuners....

I had a superchip put on my 1997 Saleen Mustang when I was in high school...I recall 2 days after putting it in the car wouldn't start and I had get a new ecu for 1200.00

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So true. These cars are mad quick. I'd prefer more grip and better brakes over more HP.