The car has 15k miles and the dealer already replaced the front pads and rotors under warranty at 11.5k miles. Looks like this is going to be a problem area and since the dealer gave me a price this week of $1500 I figured I should know how to do this myself. I decided to take the pads off before ordering so I could order anything I broke. Problem is I can’t figure out what I broke?

Everything went smooth until I tried to get the pads themselves out. I now have the right side pads off but am looking at 2 pistons on one pad a 1 piston on the other, the last piston is still seated in the caliper.

I’m not sure what I need to do next or what to order? Click Here for picture.

 

It looks like one of your damping plates broke off, you need to fish the remainder of it out of the piston in the caliper. The replacement part will be 99635108901. If you have any more questions feel free to PM.

 

I just finished my pads. I had a similar problem. First you should have put a putty knife in between the Damping plate and the back of the pads. The damping pads kinda glue onto the pads. Then the pads will come right out. I tried to fish out the back of the damping pad out of the piston with no luck. Instead I put the old one back in and put a thin layer of brake anti-squeel paste. Seems to have done the trick and no brake noise. My other one came out clean. Make sure to take the baking cover off the new damping plate to expose the glue/brake paste before you install them.

 

no big deal, the nub on the squeal dampener came off. if you cant get it out of the piston, i would not worry about it. you can either use the old one or none at all. with a new pad in there, that nub aint going anywhere. i dont run them and have no problems with squeal. YMMV.

 

Thanks,

I thought I f'ed something up bad. I just ordered the parts from Suncoast.

The dealer said I was going through rotors because they think I wash the car before winter storage and that's the cause of the warp. Is that even possible? If so, what is the storage procedure, it not in my manual.

 

Yeah, we all know that thick steel when left alone wet in the winter warps ;-)
I think your dealer is feeding you a load of bs here.

 

That is ridiculous. Water does not warp metal. The only thing that would warp them would be heat. Could the rotors have been put on the wrong sides? The rotors have a left and right specific fitment. The heat will not disperse/vent properly if put on the wrong sides. That I would think could cause warp. But water, that would cause rust or that little pop you hear and feel after you let you car air right after a wash. Those are your pads unsticking from rusting onto your rotors.

 

Does the rotor need to be changed if there is a small lip?

My apology if I am thread jacking...

 

You need to measure the thickness of the rotor with a micrometer
That's the only way to tell for sure.

 

That is what I was thinking too but they are labeled correctly. I did notice that the dealer did not change the pads when it was under warranty, but now I have to foot the bill the pads and rotors are "the right way to fix the problem." wtf?

 

Do the rotors need to be cut/resurfaced even if its within specs?

 

As long as the rotor thickness is still within spec, you don't have to change the rotor howevever you may want have them resurfaced (turned). IMO I would just change the pads and deglaze the rotor surface.