Led lights
Led lights
Can someone give me some advice on how to run led lights on a 997.1?
I heard you need a resistor if so what kind and how much voltage? Would like to run drl and led tail lights from a 997.2 on a 997.1
Thank you very much
I heard you need a resistor if so what kind and how much voltage? Would like to run drl and led tail lights from a 997.2 on a 997.1
Thank you very much
X2 on running .2 LEDs on a .1, a lot of work compared to just running aftermarket .1 LEDs.
As far as I can tell all the front aftermarket ones are all the same and made by one company in Taiwan. Price ranges from $300 to $600 depending on where you buy them.
There are two or three manufacturers of the rear ones. Dectane seem to be “higher” quality, but they are more expensive. Most of the others seem to be made by the same company, come from Taiwan, and are sold from $500-850. I went with the ones sold by Spyder Auto, which are the same ones sold by other companies for more money.
The Spyder style rears do use one halogen bulb, which is used for brake and lights, as well as fog on one side.
No resistors are needed, everything is plug and play.
To have the front fogs work as DRLs you will not to do a little hack, the easiest way is with a diode in the switch. Leave the switch the Home position and the front fogs will come on with the ignition. If you want them off for some reason just turn the switch to Off. With headlights on they work just like the fogs, ie: pull the switch out one stop.

As far as I can tell all the front aftermarket ones are all the same and made by one company in Taiwan. Price ranges from $300 to $600 depending on where you buy them.
There are two or three manufacturers of the rear ones. Dectane seem to be “higher” quality, but they are more expensive. Most of the others seem to be made by the same company, come from Taiwan, and are sold from $500-850. I went with the ones sold by Spyder Auto, which are the same ones sold by other companies for more money.
The Spyder style rears do use one halogen bulb, which is used for brake and lights, as well as fog on one side.
No resistors are needed, everything is plug and play.
To have the front fogs work as DRLs you will not to do a little hack, the easiest way is with a diode in the switch. Leave the switch the Home position and the front fogs will come on with the ignition. If you want them off for some reason just turn the switch to Off. With headlights on they work just like the fogs, ie: pull the switch out one stop.
Nice looking cars guys!! Thank you for your advice , but unfortunately I already started changing bumpers and so now I need advice on some sort of diode or resistor that will trick the computer into thinking there is no fault with the lights. Anybody know what I need?
Thanks,
Thanks,
Before you go down the resistor route, I did notice there is a setting in Durametric for LED lights. I tried it with my aftermarket LEDs out of interest and they flashed rapidly when using the turn signals and threw error messages. I don't know if changing that setting will work for .2 LEDs, maybe someone else does?
Otherwise you will need something these:
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/LED-Turn-Si...d_resistor.htm
Otherwise you will need something these:
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/LED-Turn-Si...d_resistor.htm
Just H&R lowering springs. I really like the stance and the ride, which is firm but not harsh at all.
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X2 on running .2 LEDs on a .1, a lot of work compared to just running aftermarket .1 LEDs. As far as I can tell all the front aftermarket ones are all the same and made by one company in Taiwan. Price ranges from $300 to $600 depending on where you buy them. There are two or three manufacturers of the rear ones. Dectane seem to be “higher” quality, but they are more expensive. Most of the others seem to be made by the same company, come from Taiwan, and are sold from $500-850. I went with the ones sold by Spyder Auto, which are the same ones sold by other companies for more money. The Spyder style rears do use one halogen bulb, which is used for brake and lights, as well as fog on one side. No resistors are needed, everything is plug and play. To have the front fogs work as DRLs you will not to do a little hack, the easiest way is with a diode in the switch. Leave the switch the Home position and the front fogs will come on with the ignition. If you want them off for some reason just turn the switch to Off. With headlights on they work just like the fogs, ie: pull the switch out one stop.
Phil, I didn't understand how to run the fogs as DRL, can you run it by me again as if you were talking to a 2 year old, I keep having to turn my fog lamps on manually every time to get the DRL look..... Bit of a pain since all the other lights come on but the headlamps .....
I found the info on how to do it here on 6Speed and here's the pictures which explain it all:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...lights-14.html
I found I didn't need to use any black tape. I just trimmed the diode legs a little shorter, so the diode fitted neatly inside the connector cover and then put the cover back on and used a small zip tie.
Once you have the switch removed, put some blue painters tape around the surround on the dash so you don't scratch it while working.
There are some instructions here on how to remove the switch, actually took me a few attempts to get it right:
http://www.macarbon.com/install_guid...structions.pdf
This is the diode you need, which you can pick up at RadioShack:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=2036268#
Once completed when the switch is in the Home position the fogs will be on all the time as DRLs. In all other switch positions the fogs will work as they normally do. I leave the switch in the Home position as I like the added safety of people being able to see me easier.
Some people have just done it with a piece of wire acting as a jumper, but quite a few people reported battery drain, so a diode works best and does not cause any issues. I found the info on how to do it here on 6Speed and here's the pictures which explain it all: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...lights-14.html I found I didn't need to use any black tape. I just trimmed the diode legs a little shorter, so the diode fitted neatly inside the connector cover and then put the cover back on and used a small zip tie. Once you have the switch removed, put some blue painters tape around the surround on the dash so you don't scratch it while working. There are some instructions here on how to remove the switch, actually took me a few attempts to get it right: http://www.macarbon.com/install_guid...structions.pdf This is the diode you need, which you can pick up at RadioShack: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=2036268# Once completed when the switch is in the Home position the fogs will be on all the time as DRLs. In all other switch positions the fogs will work as they normally do. I leave the switch in the Home position as I like the added safety of people being able to see me easier.
Aerodynamics is a complex issue and far beyond my skills. However, to say that a larger wing at the rear increases uplift at the front is not necessarily true. Take the factory spoiler, when deployed it increases down force at both the rear and front. Not to say that a front lip or chin, or different front bumper altogether would not work better with it, but I don't subscribe to the theory that if you add a rear wing without changing the front bumper that you will lose control and spin off the road in a furious fireball when you hit 75 mph.
My vehicle is lowered and that may have some effect on the aerodynamics, but since installing the wing I have not noticed any issues. Although I've only been up to 130 mph, but it felt fine, certainly no more unstable than before. I could feel more down force from about 100 up, but the front never started feeling light or twitchy. That said, I'm not sure I'd want to go up to 150 or so and find out that it did indeed cause instability.
A GT3 or similar bumper is in my future anyway, but for DD duty I don't see any problems with it as it is.
Last edited by Phil_D; Mar 7, 2014 at 08:51 PM.
Dectanes include sealed resistor packs that attach to light housing. Install light without resistor packs, check for error codes. If there are any, install pack #1 and try again. Repeat with pack #2. It's really pretty simple.
The Spyder style rear ones don't throw any error messages, but the front LEDs do. However they do not throw any warnings on the instrument cluster, so you would never know they are triggering a code unless you checked.
I will be using to OEM lights from a 997.2 so would like advice or know how on what I need so no error light comes on. If there is some info on this forum I can't find it. There has to be a way of installing the DRL and tail lights from a 997.2 to a 997.1. FVD sells a control module buts it like 450 there has to be a cheaper simpler solution, so I was thinking some kind or resistor just don't know what kind of voltage or wattage or what is needed, any help guys?
Thanks,
Thanks,



