Eek.

I'm not sure what's going on there. My SSK completely resolved the problem !

 

I'm having my spring service next week and they are going to check it out for me. My 997.2 C4S is tough getting into 2nd gear, only when cold (drove it today, was about 35 degrees F out). When it warms up all is good. I talked to the dealership service manager and he said its 80W90 oil in there so it is likely normal. I inquired about the short shift kit and he said it would not improve it but could make it worse? I'm still under CPO for one more year so just want it checked out. It's getting an intermediate service + drive belt + brake fluid.

 

I have had the 1st gear issue on the 911 with a 1987, 1993, 1997 and now my 2008. Inherent quirk!

 

Mobilube PTX is 75w90 and is the very best for the Aisin transmissions. It is specified in my owners manual.

 

I don't get a crunch when cold, but I do feel resistance going into 1st and 2nd until the car is sufficiently warmed up. I've always had the issue with the factory SSK, as well as the current Numeric SSK.

The shifting feels great and accuracy and grinds are a non-issue, just slight resistance which requires firmer pressure.

However, I have discovered something that has seemed to really ease this issue, and it has been working quite well for me the past couple weeks. I'd like to see if someone can give it a try and see if it works for them as well.

After I start the car before taking off, I cycle through each gear 1 thru 6 while stationary. I do 2 rounds of this, then drive off. I can then shift from 1st to second smoothly with the same feeling as when the car is fully warmed up.

 

Picked mine up today after it's 6-year intermediate service. They checked out the issue of harder to get it into 2nd when cold. It's smooth as silk when warm. They kept it overnight and were able to replicate the 2nd gear shift in the morning when cold. As I'm under CPO I had them drain the fluid and check for anything sparkly but it was clean as could be. Had them put in new oil and now I'll keep an eye on it and see if it changes. Have only brought it home from the dealership so far so no chance yet to test it cold.

 

I will make this a new habit

 

2009 C2S, 96K miles

My experience:

1 - 911 transmissions have a crunchy 2nd gear; worse as the temps drop - charm
2 - 1st gear jam is due to "old" fluid despite 120K change interval - change to what is spec'd in your manual, GL4.5 PTX and it goes away for most folks
3 - Changing shifters is only phantom improvement... issues will come back. WHat happened is your shifting habits changed. Shifting performance/smoothness happens inside the transmission and not with the cables and shifter

Go ahead, disagree. I get it.

More information (my opinion)

1 - 2nd gear I had two 911 transmissions, my now 2009 C2S and my 2000 Boxster S and both behaved very similarly. 2nd gear was worse with Boxster's transmission in that when I drove in ambient temps under 32 degrees F, sometime it would pop out of 2nd gear (car out all night). 2nd requires a faint.... double click.... to engage the dimples (locks) in the dogs otherwise you only engage the tips of the teeth. When cold, the darn trans was so thick and slow, the gear was not fully engaged and would pop out. Regardless, 2nd was always crunchy with both these transmissions from new.
2 - 1st gear jam. Read about it here: http://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum...-gear-oil.html lots there. I don't know why it works but it just does.
3 - Shifter and cables. I replaced my shifter myself with the Numeric (not cables) and experienced the same improvement in shifting performance... then it slowly faded. What I discovered is that changing this stuff caused me to change my behavior.. I was now shifting more precisely and that is where my gain was. More precise is moving the shift lever is defined left-right, back-front movements. This moves only one cable at a time. Moving the shifter in and arc cause you to move two cables at a time thus moving two mechanisms in your trans at the same time... not good.

I had a false notion that the shift clicking, springing etc was done at the shift mechanism like a bicycle... it is not. WHen I took it apart, this all became obvious. The shifter and cables are a floppy system with no springs or detents. When you are in gear, the shift mechanism is not holding the thing in place, the transmission is. The cables and lever are slack... at all time except when your are moving the lever and therefore pushing or pulling the cables. The shifter will actually push a cable when you move it forward and not "release tension" like a bicycle.

So..... modding the shifters and cables are great for improved feel but the transmission mechanisms know nothing of what are moving its levers. Even the cable adjustment at the shifter is just there to make the lever stand straight in the neutral position. All the goodness and oddness is inside the transmission and not with the cables and shifters. The only thing you can do is change the fluid, and change your habits to move in discreet left-right forward-back movements. The rest, like a new shifter and cables, is just entertainment.

FWIW

Peace
Bruce in Philly

 

This is quite insightful, thanks for the thought!

One thing i'd like to add, it is possible that cable adjustment can fix shifting problems when the cable's range of motion doesn't allow the mechanism to fully engage at the transmission. So if anyone is DIY-ing this, pay attention and make sure the cables attached to your shifter allow enough range to fully engage the transmission mechanisms.

The point about 2-degrees of motion though i think is spot on. I did the numeric shifter and numeric cables and had a rather big improvement. I could not explain why though as these components on their own do not change the mechanics of the engagement.

Thanks to your post, it occurred to me that what I improved was slop in the system. That made for more precise and more independent motion along the two axis, and therefore better engagement. It finally makes sense and I'm glad I swapped my shifter & cables.

 

I think Bruce in Philly nailed it. Had a chance to take mine out today in 40 degree weather, was still stiff in 2nd gear until warmed up, with new oil in it this week during the service. Therefore I am now in the camp that it is a trait of the tranny and nothing is technically wrong. Guess I'll stop stressing and embrace it!

 

I just want to add a few more notes....

1 - Regarding changing the fluid for your manual spec'd GL4.5 PTX: A local dealer in Philly does not even stock this stuff and they fill with common Delvac. Delvac is a Porsche recommended fill but for heavy track and GT3 use. It has poor cold weather performance among others. I am really surprised they don't carry the stuff that is specifically denoted in our manuals and fill with something else... owners don't even know it. I had to order it myself from Suncoast.
2 - More on PTX: I have not found a substitute for the GL4.5. This stuff is apparently blended specifically for Porsche and our transaxles.
3. - Just to fuel paranoia, it has been suggested that even through PTX fixes 1st gear jam for many of us, it is just masking a worn synchro or something in there. Yes, maybe this is so.... but new PTX in even lower mileage cars works... when/if my transmission fails, I will post here but right now, there is no evidence of anything abnormal.
4 - Not everyone agrees with me..... particularly with my comments about changing or adjusting the shift levers. YMMV

Peace
Bruce in Philly

 

I'll add to this fire. First gear is hard to get into quite often and second crunches. Refilling now that I'm at 104,000 mi with Mobilube from Suncoast. Short shift kit is flopping around too.... Not sure what to make of it.

 

Double clutch the first time or two going into second gear. Whether it is the slowing down of the shift or whether it gives synchros a wake up call I don't know but when I remember to do it I have no problem. For those who didn't drive trucks w/o syncros when they were learning, as you shift into neutral on way to second you engage clutch momentarily and then push it back in and finish your shift. Stay off the gas while doing this or you will just cross syncros up more = louder crunch.