I finaly got around to doing my mufflers... And now i see how hard it is to get the 3 nuts that hold the muffler bracket in place... Specialy mines are all rusted and im afraid of breaking them... So if i cut the head of the 2 long bolts that hold the muffler and tap them out it should come out quick right...i have new bolts anyways..

 

If you're talking about the really long and thin bolts, yes, this is how I had to remove mine. When reinstalling, I put the new bolt through from the bottom and the nut on top to make removal easier the next time if need be.

 

Yea i got a dremel..gonna try that now..

 

I ended up cutting the long ones and no room to cut small ones so i had to die grind the heads off..
My car is 05 so all the bolts are welded with rust...now on to the header to cats... Those look like they gonna need to be cutoff too...

 

any idea what caused them to corrode?

 

Just the years of rain and snow..i recomend anyone living in the northeast if ur car is more than 4 years old plan to buy all new hardware when doing exhaust..

 

Mine came off no problem - 2008 C2S with 60k (FL car though with 1 winter in VA)
Pro tip: PB Blaster is always your friend

 

I was working on the car for 3 days prior..n i used pb blaster everyday before i started to remove them...fl car has no rust...in northeast the cold weather eats up the cheap metal bolts porsche used..

Even the 02 sensors were hard..

 

For anyone doing a fabspeed or similar mufflers..save yourself the headache and order this clamps..


10 bucks at pelican..20 bucks for oem...they are from 996 mufflers..after this my tips dont move..and clamps better than vband..

 

Has anyone found a better bolt to replace these with that is more corrosion resistant?

 

That silver paint looks like a zinc coating...crc sells them by the can..cold gavalnise zinc prevents rust...that and some antiseized should be enough

 

I think when I did mine I replaced them with a stainless socket cap bolt and stainless nut. Unless it's a high strength hardened or specialized fastener, I usually replace anything I remove with a stainless one - no need to fight with corrosion next time I need to take something apart. I have about a 20# organizer full of various lenghts of M3-M10 bolts, lock washers, flat washers, regular nuts, lock nuts, T-nuts, etc that I bought from Albany County Fasteners. It's very unusual for me to run into a length or size I don't have a few of when working on a car and that also gives me a large spare fastener bin of non-stainless hardware I can use if working on a friend's car and finding a damaged fastener like happened this weekend. One of the tapered metric rotor mounting fasteners on a Honda Pilot I was doing a brake job on this weekend with a friend had a stripped head. Went to the parts bin from where I replaced my 997 ones with stainless during my last brake job and had just the thing he needed - no trips to the store mid job.

 

Correct - PB Blaster makes a world of difference. I soaked my bolts, literally sprayed almost the entire can on the hardware and left it overnight.
Next day all bolts came off without any snapped heads.
2nd pro tip - use new hardware. Cheap and worth every penny.

And FYI my C2 is 2009 w/ 55k on when I did the Fister / Billy Boat swap...

 

My hardware was beyong pb blaster..it was welde to the steel via rust...everything round off.. the rust was already falling to pieces..most nuts went from 13mm to 11mm ...maybe my car sat outside before i owned it.. who knows.. but the moral is be prepare for the worst... Nothing aftermarket ever fits like oem no matter how expensive it is..