I sort of think the same. But, who knows, it does not hurt to ask a question, right?
Pads and rotors will probably be due next fall on my car based on how much is left now. Rotors are actually not bad at all, previous owner was not of fast/furious type.

 

Next fall! Wow, I replaced the Front Rotors in June and they are toast again. I wish some one made a slotted rotor for the C2S, the track usage kills the rotors (cracks from the cross drilling).

 

http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3529A0A0.aspx

looks like slotted to me.

 

Yup, but I am always leery of Kangaroo Paw venting!

Let me preface my previous request, with legitimate supplier. If I am chewing through OEM rotors like I am, what will I do to a cheap rotor like this?

 

Heh. DBA is legit enough - but here is legit one:

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...PMS&perfCode=A

 

Sure it is legit, but you really need to increase you offer on the CAI for me to buy those. I am cheaper to eat through a few set of OEM rotors at that price.

 

Not having coss-drilled rotors before, I'm curious. Are the cracks just around the edges of each individual hole or do they run from hole to hole before they're due for replacement? Or is the rotor thickness the determining value? I've run ALCON's (non-drilled) before on a different car and never had durability issues. How many track days at say, an intermediate skill level, could a driver expect the OEM rotors to last?

</end questions>

 

My rotors were worn and my local shop (good folks who work on a number of high-end cars) recommended these (the Zimmerman's). Seem to be excellent. Actually, 5 months after install, I noticed a very small shimmy on braking in a very narrow set of circumstances. Brought the car in and they warranty'd them. No question.
I'd do it again.

 

If the cracks are connecting the holes, they should have been long changed. My rotors have 1/4" - 3/8" cracks, with very little surface wear. I have done some very heavy braking (using Pagid Yellows) chasing a bunch of GT3's on various tracks in the NW area.

If used for street only, then you will likely worry about thickness of the rotor before changing.

 

What is the minimal allows thickness, BTW? manual I think says that it has to be replaced when it reaches 1/2 of original rotor thickness or so, but does not say what this original thickness was. Or may be I am mistaken.

 

I think that there is usually a 2 mm difference between a new set and a worn set, but I am not certain to the exact change over either.

 

Alrighty, then. The car will see an average of four DE's a year so I think I'll be paying close attention to the rotors as well as pads. Thanks!

 

Is there any spec for when to replace the rotors if the cracks are a certain length?