Well I am not new to 6speed (hang out over in the Porsche 996 forum), but I am new to this forum and actually didn't even know it existed here.

So here is the scoop:

I have a heavily modified '89 Mustang GT (what's left of it being a factory GT that is) running a 12lb NOVI S/C on a 351W.

It has been a project build for several years and at this moment I have the engine and trans installed, exhaust done, and otehr major stuff done. The car is built for high speed runs (Silver State) with some show qualities, it is not for the drag strip.

What is left to do is (keeping it simple):

- fuel delivery (already got pump and lines run to engine compartment)
- electrical (engine compartment)
- cooling
- some gauge hook ups
- misc. stuff

When I started the project I was into Mustangs a lot, but got married (no kids), changed jobs, bought a house, etc. and so it has sat for a while. Then I bought the Porsche and so my interest for the Mustang is gone. But I know I can get it back if I am motivated to do so!

So now I want to finish it.

What I am looking for is someone that lives in my area that has experience with this level of a car, has time available (I am flexible), and wants to see this beast running and can help me achieve that and get that motivation back into me. It's not necessary to get it running but get it to the point ready to start, then if we feel good about it then sure start it up, if not I will take it to Apex for them too so that they dial it in.

Here are some pics to wet your appetite (more can be found using the link to my website in my signature block below with detailed information):

Note: the wheels on the car in this picture are not the ones I will be running



These are the wheels




BTW...thanks for taking the time to look at this thread and I hope there is a fellow Mustang enthusiast out there that can help me out.

If I cannot get it running the wife has told me to sell it . I am the original owner of the car, bought it new in '89, so I cannot see me selling it, I already parted way with my '70 Maverick with a 351C and that was tough.

 

What would you sell it for?

 

Knew I would get that question...let's just say that I have over 50K in the car (I have all receipts and a spreadsheet to show everything purchased).

So I have no idea what I would sell it for as I have not really thought about selling it. What do you think it is worth?

 

It depends. Me being on many Mustang boards, I would say TO YOU, the car is priceless, but on the real market, I firmly believe 35-40K would be what you could get for it.

So, if there is a way you could keep it, I would! Or, just sell it to me for $1, I'll have a garage spot for you, and you can buy it back when the wifey isn't looking...

 

Thanks for the feedback. Since I am not on any other Mustang boards, and really didn't want to get on another forum (spend way too much time on 6speed and Rennlist already), if you know anyone interested in helping, or buying at around the price you mentioned let me know. If it is just to get the car running, you can keep your dollar and I will give you a ride in it.

 

What is left to do on the car? I know this is a very vague question, but what type of essential work is needed in order to get it into startable condition? Because selling at this point would suck. Since you listed a short list, what kind of modifying would this require?

Where do you stand with all the electrical? Is all the old stuff out and you need new stuff in?

What kind of HP/TQ numbers are we talking?

Tranny to back the power to the ground?

What rear-end are you running?

Gears?

Suspension set-up?

 

By the way...

When she is up and running, do LINE-X or some other spray in bedliner for the interior

 

see below + much much more
Mix of Energy Suspension (Polyurethane bushings), KYB AGX adjustable shocks, BBK rear control arms and sub-frame connectors, JBA specific rate springs, Steeda quad shocks, MM caster/camber plates

 

On the plans already to do with white Line-X

 

What is left to do on the car? I know this is a very vague question, but what type of essential work is needed in order to get it into startable condition? Because selling at this point would suck. Since you listed a short list, what kind of modifying would this require?

Where do you stand with all the electrical? Is all the old stuff out and you need new stuff in?
Factory electrical is all being re-used. Just added wiring for gauges and relocation of MAS. Need to hook-up wiring for injectors and other items within the engine compartment.
WTF, you are right there, just do it. Make a weekend out of it, shouldn't take you too much time.

What kind of HP/TQ numbers are we talking?
Estimated (of course) HP = 600+ TQ = enough. The cam in the 351W is custom built for the S/C. The heads have been fully worked upon. The S/C incorporates a cog-belt setup so no slippage at all.
Not bad, but not really a fan of the COG setup, due to a little bit of slip is a good thing. With the COG setup, you will be going through belts, just be careful. With the HIGH SPEEDS you will be running, you SHOULDN'T need a COG setup. Running a COG, you should be looking for ZERO belt slip, but when going at it from a higher speed, you shouldn't have ANY slipping at higher MPH.

Tranny to back the power to the ground?
Well it's a T5 World Class but I had plans to put in a Tremec 6speed but got a great deal on the tranny. I know it won't hold the power if you drop on it, but again I built it not to be run at the drag strip, so it will only be used for going fast as possible.
Run it till it breaks, then upgarde

What rear-end are you running?
Factory 8.8 with Girdle Kit
Sweet!


Gears?
Currently 3.55 but will be changing them out for 2.73's for top speed results.
Not bad!

Suspension set-up?
Mix of Energy Suspension (Polyurethane bushings), KYB AGX adjustable shocks, BBK rear control arms and sub-frame connectors, JBA specific rate springs, Steeda quad shocks, MM caster/camber plates
Sexy!

 

We will do the colour thing here
So basically I have everything I need but no motivation and lost my knowledge of how to work on this beast...plus a little scared to be honest as I have gone to a level that I am not familiar with, don't want to lose it all from just turning the key.

 

We will do the colour thing here

What is left to do on the car? I know this is a very vague question, but what type of essential work is needed in order to get it into startable condition? Because selling at this point would suck. Since you listed a short list, what kind of modifying would this require?

Where do you stand with all the electrical? Is all the old stuff out and you need new stuff in?
Factory electrical is all being re-used. Just added wiring for gauges and relocation of MAS. Need to hook-up wiring for injectors and other items within the engine compartment.
WTF, you are right there, just do it. Make a weekend out of it, shouldn't take you too much time.
Need another set of eyes and someone that has worked on a Mustang lately to assist me with this area, I have forgotten so much, don't want to 'f' things up.
The wiring shouldn't be that bad. Everything should be plug in here, solder this - to - that. With the fuel injectors, don't you just have to plug the wiring into the injectors? And basically either connect or wire in a pigtail for new sensors/etc?

What kind of HP/TQ numbers are we talking?
Estimated (of course) HP = 600+ TQ = enough. The cam in the 351W is custom built for the S/C. The heads have been fully worked upon. The S/C incorporates a cog-belt setup so no slippage at all.
Not bad, but not really a fan of the COG setup, due to a little bit of slip is a good thing. With the COG setup, you will be going through belts, just be careful. With the HIGH SPEEDS you will be running, you SHOULDN'T need a COG setup. Running a COG, you should be looking for ZERO belt slip, but when going at it from a higher speed, you shouldn't have ANY slipping at higher MPH.
I was the first person in California to run the NOVI on the street and it was a track cog belt setup then. Got it from Central Coast Mustang years ago and they had to make a custom bracket and that for a street application, so I kept it that way. Advanced Motorsports in Oakland installed it along with CCM advice. Even then with a 9lb pulley it was brutal and boost was instant.
What does this bracket do? Does it relieve tension?

Tranny to back the power to the ground?
Well it's a T5 World Class but I had plans to put in a Tremec 6speed but got a great deal on the tranny. I know it won't hold the power if you drop on it, but again I built it not to be run at the drag strip, so it will only be used for going fast as possible.
Run it till it breaks, then upgarde
Exactly...I picked-up the brand-new in a Ford box T5WC for under a grand
Can't beat that AT ALL!

What rear-end are you running?
Factory 8.8 with Girdle Kit
Sweet!


Gears?
Currently 3.55 but will be changing them out for 2.73's for top speed results.
Not bad!
I want to hit 190mph +
You should be able to, but might have to be worried about downforce and stability at those speeds. Although, I can refer you to DrLee, a member of a mustang board, who is running around 900HP on his fox, and daily drives it with the slicks in the back to the track

Suspension set-up?
Mix of Energy Suspension (Polyurethane bushings), KYB AGX adjustable shocks, BBK rear control arms and sub-frame connectors, JBA specific rate springs, Steeda quad shocks, MM caster/camber plates
Sexy![/quote]

So basically I have everything I need but no motivation and lost my knowledge of how to work on this beast...plus a little scared to be honest as I have gone to a level that I am not familiar with, don't want to lose it all from just turning the key.
Gotcha. Once you get to the TURN KEY point, it would be a good idea to bring it to the tuner, or tuner come to you, in order to load a pre-tune for initial start up, and break-in of the cam (run at about 2500rpms for 10-15 minutes, then change oil). Then fine tune it from there.

 

So basically I have everything I need but no motivation and lost my knowledge of how to work on this beast...plus a little scared to be honest as I have gone to a level that I am not familiar with, don't want to lose it all from just turning the key.
Gotcha. Once you get to the TURN KEY point, it would be a good idea to bring it to the tuner, or tuner come to you, in order to load a pre-tune for initial start up, and break-in of the cam (run at about 2500rpms for 10-15 minutes, then change oil). Then fine tune it from there.[/quote]

 

We will do the colour thing here

What is left to do on the car? I know this is a very vague question, but what type of essential work is needed in order to get it into startable condition? Because selling at this point would suck. Since you listed a short list, what kind of modifying would this require?

Where do you stand with all the electrical? Is all the old stuff out and you need new stuff in?
Factory electrical is all being re-used. Just added wiring for gauges and relocation of MAS. Need to hook-up wiring for injectors and other items within the engine compartment.
WTF, you are right there, just do it. Make a weekend out of it, shouldn't take you too much time.
Need another set of eyes and someone that has worked on a Mustang lately to assist me with this area, I have forgotten so much, don't want to 'f' things up.
The wiring shouldn't be that bad. Everything should be plug in here, solder this - to - that. With the fuel injectors, don't you just have to plug the wiring into the injectors? And basically either connect or wire in a pigtail for new sensors/etc?
True but still I am no electrician
The plugging connections should be a breeze. You just need to have the ability to use a soldering gun, and shrink wrap the connection, and wire-loom or electrical tape over that.

What kind of HP/TQ numbers are we talking?
Estimated (of course) HP = 600+ TQ = enough. The cam in the 351W is custom built for the S/C. The heads have been fully worked upon. The S/C incorporates a cog-belt setup so no slippage at all.
Not bad, but not really a fan of the COG setup, due to a little bit of slip is a good thing. With the COG setup, you will be going through belts, just be careful. With the HIGH SPEEDS you will be running, you SHOULDN'T need a COG setup. Running a COG, you should be looking for ZERO belt slip, but when going at it from a higher speed, you shouldn't have ANY slipping at higher MPH.
I was the first person in California to run the NOVI on the street and it was a track cog belt setup then. Got it from Central Coast Mustang years ago and they had to make a custom bracket and that for a street application, so I kept it that way. Advanced Motorsports in Oakland installed it along with CCM advice. Even then with a 9lb pulley it was brutal and boost was instant.
What does this bracket do? Does it relieve tension?
I'm talking about the moutning bracket that holds the S/C, alternator, smog pump (yep all of the smog stuff is still on the car), cog belt routing pulleys.
I didn't know if there was a secondary type tensioner that would allow a slight bit of movement. But at this point in the project you have, I really wouldn't mind spending the extra $$$ on belts to have the instant power you're going to have!

Tranny to back the power to the ground?
Well it's a T5 World Class but I had plans to put in a Tremec 6speed but got a great deal on the tranny. I know it won't hold the power if you drop on it, but again I built it not to be run at the drag strip, so it will only be used for going fast as possible.
Run it till it breaks, then upgarde
Exactly...I picked-up the brand-new in a Ford box T5WC for under a grand
Can't beat that AT ALL!

What rear-end are you running?
Factory 8.8 with Girdle Kit
Sweet!


Gears?
Currently 3.55 but will be changing them out for 2.73's for top speed results.
Not bad!
I want to hit 190mph +
You should be able to, but might have to be worried about downforce and stability at those speeds. Although, I can refer you to DrLee, a member of a mustang board, who is running around 900HP on his fox, and daily drives it with the slicks in the back to the track
My body kit and suspension is setup for the speeds I want to achieve, again not 1/4 mile. The rear valance is designed to allow air to evacuate from underneath the car.
Got any pictures of this setup? Are you going to do a underside belly-pan/skid plate type design to make it more aerodynamic?

Suspension set-up?
Mix of Energy Suspension (Polyurethane bushings), KYB AGX adjustable shocks, BBK rear control arms and sub-frame connectors, JBA specific rate springs, Steeda quad shocks, MM caster/camber plates
Sexy!

So basically I have everything I need but no motivation and lost my knowledge of how to work on this beast...plus a little scared to be honest as I have gone to a level that I am not familiar with, don't want to lose it all from just turning the key.
Gotcha. Once you get to the TURN KEY point, it would be a good idea to bring it to the tuner, or tuner come to you, in order to load a pre-tune for initial start up, and break-in of the cam (run at about 2500rpms for 10-15 minutes, then change oil). Then fine tune it from there.

 

Edited version 1.0