What is the max HP/TQ a stock clutch good for?

I've been reading that if you get a tune and exhaust, that soon you'll need a clutch.

Is it still true if it's a daily driver with some spirited driving, no hole shots? No tracking?

 

With our custom tuning on the 997.1 and an exhaust on 93 octane, provided we go for maximum area under the curve sort of tune, the OEM clutch will start to slip. You could always detune on the torque to make it last a little longer but where's the fun in that Judging by low reading Mustang dyno numbers I'd say anything past about 580awtq you're looking at iffy clutch holding with the OEM. For Dynojet numbers add about 8-12% to that.

 

Once you get an exhaust and tune, it won't be long before your stock clutch goes.

 

My clutch lasted 7k....on a conservitve tune and exaust...the car was driven like a porsche with respect...I'm going to give the best advice from someone that's modded a few cars...most important never go overboard ..basic Bolt ons are the most important...if your worried about the clutch..just stick with the exaust and be done with it...on the same note if your going to mod..factor in custom tune exaust and intercoolers...that way all your parts work great together.....

 

I read about this subject myself and I was concerned since I have a low mileage car (6K). From what I was told, you're probably ok up to close to 580-600HP, but after that it will slip and also depends on how hard you drive it.

 

Thanks for all the replies. They have been informative.

 

I bought my 997 bone stock with 11k miles and had it flashed the next day. Clutch started started slipping after a few launches

 

Not what I was wanting to hear. But thanks anyhow!

 

thats the way the cookie crumbles. clutch job isnt too bad at all.

 

Its unfortunate that hp numbers get thrown around randomly online without consideration for what hp is being talked about, crank/rwhp/awhp and if a dyno is used the sort of Dyno for the numbers posted. Without stating these there is no reference point and numbers can vary quite drastically based on what is being talked about. On top of it all clutches are/should be rated in torque holding capacity not hp and its unfortunate that this is also very common out there even with clutch manufacturers.

 

580AWTQ with 18% losses on an AWD is about 707 crank Torque

With Exhaust and a Tune what can I expect 480 AWTQ?
Which is 585 crank torque.

Stock is 460 Crank Torque which is about 377 AWTQ


So the OEM clutch barring any mechanical problems, heavy launches, etc should be ok with an Tune? Or am I missing something?

 

Its tricky talking about dyno/hp numbers online unless you talk about gains as they're relative. I also don't like converting anything to crank numbers as drivetrain losses aren't something we have measured but I'd love to jump on a MAHA dyno and get some numbers there. Another thing is drivetrain losses are not linear so applying a fixed number to another absolute number doesn't really work. If you were to look at a drivetrain loss graph you'd see that they increase with wheelspeed in any given gear.

OEM VTGs are highly efficient in the low/mid RPM range and we've seen up to 680awtq with our shop car with just pump gas on the Mustang dyno with 28psi while doing in-house testing. This was done as an exploratory session of the platform capabilities. On a typical Dynojet dyno out there that is somewhere in the mid 700awtq range and we don't recommend or tune customers with this much boost/torque on the stock internals. The power curve is also not very appealing as its highly non-linear with a huge sling shot type torque bump in the lower RPM range and a very steep dropoff towards redline.

Provided you're not launching or no-lift-shifting your 6MT and that your OEM clutch hasn't been abused (has decent life in it still) it should hold up to custom tuning with OEM hardware. If you're looking to get the most out of the car on pump gas with an exhaust your OEM clutch won't fit the bill and will eventually start to slip in higher gears under WOT, even in lower gears with repeated pulls and faster shifting.

With custom tuning you can always have the tuner limit torque in the lower/mid RPM range just to get the peak hp gains but where's the fun in that

Dzenno@PTF

 

If you get anything more than a mild off the shelf tune and exhaust, a clutch will be needed in short order. The factory pressure plate in particular is just not suited for a high torque environment. The good news is that it is worth the upgrade. My car, and other custom tuned cars with clutches, are torque monsters. Well, WELL worth the $$.

Also, the sachs "2.5" upgrade is nearly without downsides. The actual engagement point is slightly more abrupt, but drivability and pedal feel are unchanged. Best clutch upgrade experience I've ever had.

 

My 09 is completely stock and my clutch gave up at 27K. I'm the second owner so I can't attest to how it was driven but these failures, even on stock TT's, are common. IMHO the stock PP is marginal.