Honest opinion sought: value of my 997.2 TT 6MT
Honest opinion sought: value of my 997.2 TT 6MT
I'm thinking of selling my 997.2 TT 6MT. It has 42k miles and is a daily driver so its no garage queen. It is unmodified and came off of CPO this Feb. Color is Black + Black.
It has no issues other than a sticky passenger side window. It has been dealer serviced since I bought it 2 and a bit years ago.
Any thoughts as to its current market value as a trade in or private sale?
TIA
It has no issues other than a sticky passenger side window. It has been dealer serviced since I bought it 2 and a bit years ago.
Any thoughts as to its current market value as a trade in or private sale?
TIA
I'm thinking of selling my 997.2 TT 6MT. It has 42k miles and is a daily driver so its no garage queen. It is unmodified and came off of CPO this Feb. Color is Black + Black.
It has no issues other than a sticky passenger side window. It has been dealer serviced since I bought it 2 and a bit years ago.
Any thoughts as to its current market value as a trade in or private sale?
TIA
It has no issues other than a sticky passenger side window. It has been dealer serviced since I bought it 2 and a bit years ago.
Any thoughts as to its current market value as a trade in or private sale?
TIA
As for the current market, there are two currently for sale (confirmed to be actual three pedal cars):
$115K, 14K mi
$100K, 31K mi
So, for your car, maybe $90K-$100K?
Another data point - this 997.2TT just came on the market:
https://goo.gl/MHMGd1
It has no stated price, but it has 41K miles, which is very similar to yours. The Cargurus website values it at ~$90K, which takes into consideration similar cars which have been up for sale on the site.
https://goo.gl/MHMGd1
It has no stated price, but it has 41K miles, which is very similar to yours. The Cargurus website values it at ~$90K, which takes into consideration similar cars which have been up for sale on the site.
I'm thinking of selling my 997.2 TT 6MT. It has 42k miles and is a daily driver so its no garage queen. It is unmodified and came off of CPO this Feb. Color is Black + Black.
It has no issues other than a sticky passenger side window. It has been dealer serviced since I bought it 2 and a bit years ago.
Any thoughts as to its current market value as a trade in or private sale?
TIA
It has no issues other than a sticky passenger side window. It has been dealer serviced since I bought it 2 and a bit years ago.
Any thoughts as to its current market value as a trade in or private sale?
TIA
If the two sites disagree you can pick the higher of the two.
You can then search autotrader.com for cars similar to yours and see what they are being listed for.
From the above then you can arrive at I think a pretty good market price for your car.
If services are due consider having them done and of course getting receipts for the all the work. (Be nice if you can show a history of good servicing.)
From a buyer's point of view considering a car that once bought needs nothing, is not due any servicing, for thousands of miles is a plus.
From the seller's point of view being able to point this out is a good selling point.
The general rule for used car buying is to have in reserve 10% of a used car's price to have just in case. If you can point out the car needs no service for another year or more, tires have plenty of life left, ditto brakes, etc., then your higher asking price is justified and you might be able to get some of that 10% just in case money as part of the sale price.
You can visit www.nada.com or www.kbb.com (and there may be others) and plug in the car's details: MY, mileage, options, condition, et.; and see what the trade-in/wholesale, private sale, and retail sale values are.
If the two sites disagree you can pick the higher of the two.
You can then search autotrader.com for cars similar to yours and see what they are being listed for.
From the above then you can arrive at I think a pretty good market price for your car.
If services are due consider having them done and of course getting receipts for the all the work. (Be nice if you can show a history of good servicing.)
From a buyer's point of view considering a car that once bought needs nothing, is not due any servicing, for thousands of miles is a plus.
From the seller's point of view being able to point this out is a good selling point.
The general rule for used car buying is to have in reserve 10% of a used car's price to have just in case. If you can point out the car needs no service for another year or more, tires have plenty of life left, ditto brakes, etc., then your higher asking price is justified and you might be able to get some of that 10% just in case money as part of the sale price.
If the two sites disagree you can pick the higher of the two.
You can then search autotrader.com for cars similar to yours and see what they are being listed for.
From the above then you can arrive at I think a pretty good market price for your car.
If services are due consider having them done and of course getting receipts for the all the work. (Be nice if you can show a history of good servicing.)
From a buyer's point of view considering a car that once bought needs nothing, is not due any servicing, for thousands of miles is a plus.
From the seller's point of view being able to point this out is a good selling point.
The general rule for used car buying is to have in reserve 10% of a used car's price to have just in case. If you can point out the car needs no service for another year or more, tires have plenty of life left, ditto brakes, etc., then your higher asking price is justified and you might be able to get some of that 10% just in case money as part of the sale price.
For trade be prepared for a shock. Find the lowest published valuation per KBB, NADA, etc. and that might be the starting point for a dealer to offer...probably lower. Best bet would be private party and already some good advice has been offered. Good luck.
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For certain cars that are harder to find (such as the 997.2TT 6MT, which had less than 500 units shipped to North America), I've noticed that there's a wide delta between the KBB/NADA stated values and what the cars actually sell for on the open market at Manheim/Bring-a-Trailer/eBay. KBB/NADA is not a good source to value the car, in this case.
The Manheim numbers I've seen -- not for this particular model -- are not all that informative. It is not possible to know the condition of the cars being sold.
I have participated in a few auctions -- mostly machinery -- but in one car auction (I sold a new Cayman S with a salvage title at a salvage car auction at a large (very large) auto auction facility).
At the machinery auctions what I observed is prices quickly exceeded what my market research indicated was well, the market price for the equipment. While I was disappointed I missed out getting some machinery I was glad I had done my research. It made my decision to buy new machinery easier and for not much more money than I would have paid at auction I got new machinery.
In the case of my Cayman S, I really appreciated getting around 17.5% over the "market price" (what the insurance allowed me on the value of the car).
The OP isn't selling the car at an auction. He is exploring the sale of the car either by private sale or trade in.
Trade in/wholesale is pretty certain to be in the range given by KBB/NADA maybe less as almost invariably when one goes to trade in a car and learns the dealer's trade in value doesn't agree with the published values the standard response is we go by the "back of the book" numbers. The dealer has access to auction prices from a number of Porsche auctions and other auctions and knows what if he can't move the car in a reasonable amount of time what he can get for the car at auction. It is not not a dealer's nature to gamble in this regard so he's going to stick pretty close to the numbers he has.
Certainly the OP can visit his local dealer or any dealer he choses and offer the car as a trade in. The problem with this is the trade in has to be taken in the context of what car he is then going to buy. One can get a nice trade in but can end up paying for it when he over pays for the new car.
In a trade in scenario the OP then has to know the market for his used car but also the market for the car he is going to buy with the trade in.
The OP can offer his car for private sale and put any price on the car he wants. The price should have some relationship to the market though. Otherwise, if the price is too high -- and prospective buyers will quickly note this -- the car sits unsold and after a while this tends to stigmatize the car so when the seller lowers the price then the car can still remain unsold.
The price can be a bit towards the upper end of the market but the OP has to be prepared to justify this price to some extent. Condition, which includes good servicing history, current services up to date, unmodified, no stories, only "500" made, and so on, go a ways to justifying the price.
Last edited by Macster; May 14, 2017 at 04:14 PM.
as a 997.2 Turbo shopper I'll share my thoughts/questions:
-Year of the car?
-Options?
-# of owners?
My stupid comments:
-black on black is a desirable and very common color combination
-People paying this kind of money for a used car are going to assume other repairs have been skipped if you don't fix the window. Fix it.
- Mileage is high. I know that sounds asinine for a car that is 5+ years old, but most people like me who want a cherry 911 Turbo are going to start getting nervous with mileage over 30k.
-Manual is going to hurt you. The people who really want a manual are going to focus on the Mezger engine cars unless they really just want the updated electronics/nav/bluetooth/etc. The people who are OK pony'ing up for the much higher costs of a 997.2 probably want PDK.
AGAIN - just MY thoughts as a 997 Turbo shopper. I am probably very atypical.
I would use cars.com and see what other cars with your exact year and mileage are on the market for. Dealership cars, especially dealerships that are affiliated with a manufacturer are probably asking close to what they're going to sell the car for. Use that as a baseline. At least, that's what I would do.
-Year of the car?
-Options?
-# of owners?
My stupid comments:
-black on black is a desirable and very common color combination
-People paying this kind of money for a used car are going to assume other repairs have been skipped if you don't fix the window. Fix it.
- Mileage is high. I know that sounds asinine for a car that is 5+ years old, but most people like me who want a cherry 911 Turbo are going to start getting nervous with mileage over 30k.
-Manual is going to hurt you. The people who really want a manual are going to focus on the Mezger engine cars unless they really just want the updated electronics/nav/bluetooth/etc. The people who are OK pony'ing up for the much higher costs of a 997.2 probably want PDK.
AGAIN - just MY thoughts as a 997 Turbo shopper. I am probably very atypical.
I would use cars.com and see what other cars with your exact year and mileage are on the market for. Dealership cars, especially dealerships that are affiliated with a manufacturer are probably asking close to what they're going to sell the car for. Use that as a baseline. At least, that's what I would do.
- Mileage is high. I know that sounds asinine for a car that is 5+ years old, but most people like me who want a cherry 911 Turbo are going to start getting nervous with mileage over 30k.
-Manual is going to hurt you. The people who really want a manual are going to focus on the Mezger engine cars unless they really just want the updated electronics/nav/bluetooth/etc. The people who are OK pony'ing up for the much higher costs of a 997.2 probably want PDK.
-Manual is going to hurt you. The people who really want a manual are going to focus on the Mezger engine cars unless they really just want the updated electronics/nav/bluetooth/etc. The people who are OK pony'ing up for the much higher costs of a 997.2 probably want PDK.
40k miles isn't high for someone who wants a car they can drive more than once a month to Cars and Coffee, and most enthusiasts know 911s don't arbitrarily fall apart at 50k miles if they've been maintained. It may not get the premium that a cherry low-miler would get, but OP shouldn't have problems finding a buyer at those miles.
Also, manual transmissions are huge drivers in values nowadays. As mentioned, .2 Turbos with manuals are extremely rare, further propping up the market when .2 Turbo PDKs are relatively plentiful and easy to find. After all, someone looking at a 997 probably appreciates the more old school analog vibe lost in the 991 generation, so the 6mt .2TT is a highly sought-after "last of." The Turbo'd 9A1 has proven to be reliable with no real shortcomings, and a few distinct benefits despite missing the Mezger cachet. I think in time, the last Mezger '09 6mt and the 2010-2012 6mt coupes will be the money tickets in the 997 Turbo family.
Anyway, depending on options and condition I'd think OP's car should land in the mid-to-upper $70s. Bonus bucks for PCCBs, adaptive sport seats, etc.
Last edited by Skwerl; May 15, 2017 at 12:35 PM.
80-90k depending on options.
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ESMOTOR | DO88 | TPC DSC | SYVECS | COBB | IPD | KLINE | XONA | AMS | ID | ERP | SACHS | TURBOSMART | CSF | DODSON |
#TeamAIM
997TT SilverSpool - 210.8 mph 1/2 Mile WR Apr 2019, 9.2 @ 168 mph 1/4 Mile Manual World Record , 3.15 60-130 mph , 2.72 100-150 mph , 1400whp E85
996TT SpoolBus - 204.6 mph 1/2 Mile 996TT WR Aug 2018, 9.5 @ 154 mph, 3.23 60-130 mph, 2.5 100-150 mph Manual Porsche World Record, 1400whp E85
997TT SlowBerry - 205.0 mph 1/2 Mile WR Nov 2018, 9.7 @ 170 mph 1/4 Mile , 3.2 60-130 mph , 2.4 100-150 mph , 1420whp E85
ESMOTOR | DO88 | TPC DSC | SYVECS | COBB | IPD | KLINE | XONA | AMS | ID | ERP | SACHS | TURBOSMART | CSF | DODSON |
Many thanks to all that replied. I think the responses here highlight the problem. The market for this car is very illiquid hence price discovery is problematic. One useful data point is that I've already been offered $74K trade-in.
I'm having the car PPI'd as I type. I think that might help a bit towards determining its retail value.
As for fixing the window, it *is* annoying but stripping the door down to fix it might introduce rattles. That's why I hesitated to fix it.
I'm having the car PPI'd as I type. I think that might help a bit towards determining its retail value.
As for fixing the window, it *is* annoying but stripping the door down to fix it might introduce rattles. That's why I hesitated to fix it.
Last edited by MidLifeKrisis; May 18, 2017 at 09:14 AM.
Hey man...as others mentioned, fix the window. I have purchased 103 cars to date and that is one thing that always stands out...when people have a couple of things that should be an easy fix and choose not to. It always makes me wonder what other things may have gone unnoticed.
If there are a few things that require fixing, I expect a heft discount as I am going to have to use my time and possibly hire others to take care of those annoyances. $ 80-90k is fair...good luck man!
If there are a few things that require fixing, I expect a heft discount as I am going to have to use my time and possibly hire others to take care of those annoyances. $ 80-90k is fair...good luck man!
Many thanks to all that replied. I think the responses here highlight the problem. The market for this car is very illiquid hence price discovery is problematic. One useful data point is that I've already been offered $74K trade-in.
I'm having the car PPI'd as I type. I think that might help a bit towards determining its retail value.
As for fixing the window, it *is* annoying but stripping the door down to fix it might introduce rattles. That's why I hesitated to fix it.
I'm having the car PPI'd as I type. I think that might help a bit towards determining its retail value.
As for fixing the window, it *is* annoying but stripping the door down to fix it might introduce rattles. That's why I hesitated to fix it.
I'm pretty sure if you price your car as low as the $75K-$80K range it will sell the second it hits the market. That's too low.
Last edited by HellaHashTags; May 18, 2017 at 01:16 PM.





