Hi all, new to the forum and the DB9 platform. I’ve just purchased a 2009 and am in the process of baselining it. One thing I’ve noticed is that my crank pulley seems to have a tiny amount of movement that I suspect is due to a deteriorating rubber isolator between the two pieces and have parked it until replaced.

Scuderia has this part priced at ~$1700 plus tariffs/shipping. In shopping for idler/tensioner pulleys, I saw a post where someone mentioned that those pulleys were exchangeable with duratech 3.0L V6 parts (of which the v12 is constructed). I’ve since ordered and received new idler and tensioner pulleys for a 2005 Ford Escape, and they are in fact identical. Now I’m wondering if the crank pulley of that same engine will also work, which is a much more palatable $170 on the high end of oem Ford parts. The photos look near identical, though it does seem Aston used several variations through the years judging by the drilled markings I’ve seen in Google photos. I haven’t removed my existing to measure and confirm, wondering if anyone else here has?

 

The crankshaft pulley is indeed the same as an early Ford duratec.They are fairly robust so I'm surprised your's has failed or has an issue. You will need a pulley to remove it, and a new bolt for replacement.

 

Ok, so I’ve managed to get the bolt out, but I cannot for the life of me get a puller to work. For whatever reason, my crank pulley does not have threaded holes, so a jaw puller is the only option unless I can somehow wiggle it loose; open to suggestions.

Also, when I pulled the washer out, it seems like it was in there with some rtv or gasket. I haven’t seen this mentioned anywhere and wondering if I need to apply new sealant when reinstalling?

Also also, my new pulley did not come with a new washer. Is it safe to clean/reuse the old one? I did source a new bolt.

 

The new pulley is obviously a newer design, and if you look at the key way for the crankshaft, the old one has a recessed area the washer sits down in ~1/8-1/4”, whereas the new one is flat. I’m a little concerned this will affect thread engagement length on the new bolt. However, when I fit the washer with the bits of gasket still on it, it fits precisely in the new pulley.

I also ordered two new different types of pullers, will report back on Saturday if either worked.

Old Pulley with washer mocked in place:



New Pulley:







New Pullers:

 

Good luck with this. Patience is your friend... I would heat the pulley and use Kroil penetrating oil on it. Amazing how a little extra clearance and lube makes things yield.

 

Either puller will work, I've used a 3-jaw type multiple times for this. The second puller you show could have issues of the rubber bonding comes apart. You need to replace the bolt and use some RTV so oil doesn't weep thru the surface.

 

Thanks! I really appreciate all the help. The rubber bonding already looks like it’s coming apart, hence the replacement, that’s a good thought to try the other puller first. What started this is I noticed the pulley had a minor up/down movement to it and then I noticed the rubber bulging a bit on one side of it. It wasn’t slipping yet, but I was worried it could be causing vibrations.

Since I’m not replacing due to a leak and am not pulling the timing cover, do you think it’s necessary to replace the crank seal behind the balancer? Can it even be replaced without removing the cover? It’s not leaking currently, the car only has 26k miles, and I didn’t order/anticipate replacing it, but now I’m worried I might regret it. Does it do anything to locate/steady the crank/balancer or is it just there to keep oil in?

Also, any thoughts on the recessed area for the washer on the original pulley and the flat face on the new one? Should I still be using the same washer? (Photos of this posted above).

 

Anytime a component is changed the seal should be also. It can be done without front cover removal, although it's a special tool or equivalent to do so. You may do more damage than good trying to replace the seal. Clean the new damper sealing surface and apply a rubber friendly grease or engine oil. Reuse the washer after cleaning all the old RTV off and apply a small bead of RTV to the center of the washer.

 

It’s off and the new one is on. FWIW, the only puller I could make work is the one that grabbed it by the ridges, which actually worked really easily. I’ve gotten all of the other pulleys replaced while I’m waiting on the ultra black to cure on the crank washer.

I pulled one of the upper radiator hoses to make my life easier installing the belt tensioner. There is a metal manifold that it attaches to, opposite the thermostat housing. Upon pulling the hose, it looks like this, how concerned should I be about replacing this manifold right now and/or the possibility other rust could be in the system? I was able to drain about 2.25 gallons out of the system, and there was not any debris in coolant that I saw (bucket wasn’t entirely clean to being with).

 

Well, I might have screwed up, I’m just hoping not too badly. When I was performing the final torque procedure on the crank pulley, the pulley holder I was using slipped, and I accidentally rotated the engine backwards through 1 or 2 compression strokes (~180 crank rotation) before I realized it was slipping. I then rotated it forwards, hoping that it would take the tension back up in the timing chains if they loosened. I have not started the motor. There was no oil or coolant in the engine when this happened, if that matters. Anyone know specifically what I should check before starting it?

I haven’t studied the timing system on this engine well enough yet, but I’m really hoping this doesn’t mean I need to pull the timing cover and check or reset the timing, that is far more work than I signed up for right now. Any chance it DIDN’T slip time and I’m ok?

 

So I’ve been having a long talk with ChatGPT about this engine. It seems to think I should refill the oil, then hand turn the crank 3-4 rotations forward. If I don’t feel any binding, stops, or weirdness, to crank the car and let it idle. Reasoning is if I don’t feel weirdness by hand, it’s not off enough to be catastrophic. If it’s off slightly when started, it will be obviously through rough running and immediate codes.

Thoughts on this approach?

It also thinks it’s unlikely it jumped time knock on wood because of the way our tensioners operate, the use of primary and secondary chains, and the low miles on my engine (26k). Does this sound accurate?

 

You're over thinking it, just put engine oil in and turn it over. Clockwise of course and it will be fine. You can always do the clear flood method, hold the accelerator pedal to the maximum and attempt a key start. This allows cranking with no start to build oil pressure. Don't lift the throttle thinking it's not working. Recommend 2 times at 5-8 seconds.

 

Been there, done that. One advantage of a non-variable valve timing engine is there is less to mess up... You took all the steps I took and I was fine.

WRT your cooling system - a prior owner didn't love the car as much as you and let the coolant go too long, and/or added tap water to it. If you buy 4 gallons of distilled (not spring) water and fill/drain after getting it up to temp a couple of times you can get all the old out. Then drain the last time and add in straight coolant. That got me close to 50/50. I've also bought some test strips so I can monitor the ph of my coolant (and brake fluid).

 

Thanks for the help everyone, I’m going to give the rtv a little longer to cure then I’m going to fill with fluids, hand rotate, dry start, and then cranking.

I appreciate site the advice on the cooling system. I only have 4 gallons of 50/50 Havoline on hand - I have to order it where I’m at - I can get plenty of distilled. My concern is after a few runs/drains of distilled and then filling with 50/50 will leave me below the ideal mix. I know that about 2.25 gallons came out. Would it be far less than ideal to top of with 2 gallons of 50/50, run it, drain it, then top off again with the remaining 50/50 for now- or should I order some concentrate and do as you suggested to try and get ALL of it out?

 

Go with what you have. Probably best to not over think it!

But, the Ph test strips are really helpful - they tell you when to change the coolant and not just the clock. Your hygrometer will tell you how much coolant you have, the test strip tells you how good it.

As always, YMMV!