Happy holidays! I’m about to begin the install of VAP headers while on jack stands. I’ve read a couple of threads where people have successfully done this. I’m wondering if anyone has any advice that could save me time/grief. I’m planning on starting next week, just after the holidays.

 

This shows the install:

 

Thank you! Do you know how similar the V8V is to the DB9? I watched some of the video and it appears to be the same process more or less, including the subframe and supporting the engine.

 

They may be similar, but the process on the DB9 is certainly more involved, particularly if you follow the AM service manual. I did not install the VAP headers, but I did remove and reinstall the factory manifolds on my Virage, using a Quickjack (as in the video). Keep in mind that the V12 is a much heavier and larger engine, so there is both less space to work and a greater need for more robust support. To gain enough clearance to get at all of the studs and to physically remove the manifolds - at least according to AM - the starter and alternator need to come out, along with the rest of the work. There may be others who have had success without resorting to the full service manual process, but I think that I can fairly say that it is definitely not something that can be accomplished in an afternoon by a DIYer.

Happy to answer any questions you may have.

 

Thanks! I have two others joining me and there’s no need to finish in an afternoon. The other guys joining me are both mechanics by trade, but neither have worked on an Aston previously. Your V12 Virage should be nearly identical. To get the factory manifolds out, did you have to remove starter/alternator? Did you drop the subframe entirely or did you leave the steering rack connected and just lower it enough to get the manifolds out? I realize either way the engine needs to be well supported, but I have seen some that say you don’t need to remove the subframe completely. The headers going in are smaller than the manifolds coming out, thanks to a lack of catalytic converters.

 

Yes, the DB9 and the Virage are pretty much identical in most regards.

I did remove the starter and alternator; I don't know if you could get to all of the manifold bolts without doing so or if there would be room at the rear without removing the starter. As for the steering rack, I left it connected with some large zip ties, as a couple of the subframe bolts run through it (if I recall correctly). I would note that you generally need to remove the lower control arms to get the subframe lowered enough, but I did not remove the subframe entirely. I would say that it needs to drop around 6"-8" or so, and I just used four woodworking bar clamps to hang it at an even height, while I removed and replaced the manifolds. I was doing the work myself, so these also allowed me to lower and raise the subframe incrementally.

The biggest problem is the scarcity of space in which to get hands and tools, given what is a very full engine compartment, particularly if you only have limited room under the car. If you have a full lift, I think there would be some options open to you that I didn't have (e.g. using a transmission stand to support the engine, etc.).

Getting at everything requires some creativity in the use of ratchet extensions, universal joint/wobble fittings, etc. At least that was my experience.

 

Thanks, appreciate the help. Bar clamps seem like a good idea. What type did you use, it seems like the subframe would be pretty heavy? I’ve gotten everything laid out, fender wells are out, just waiting on my friends. Will realistically probably be the first week in the new year before we start, but I’m trying to prepare now to make this as smooth as possible.

Right now I have what you see below that was provided with the kit. The car only has 27k miles and was not throwing any crazy misfires, so I’m thinking the O2 are probably ok to reuse. Plus, after this install, they will all be fairly accessible from directly beneath the car. I’m planning on ordering new header nuts and new wire covers (I hear these break very easily). Is there anything else you guys feel like I should order preemptively?

Any other tips or tricks you figured out while removing/installing manifold/headers?

 

The clamps I used were similar to these...They can be tightened or released with one hand and are stable enough to support the load. The subframe really isn't that heavy - not that you would want it to fall on your face - and the clamps are plenty strong enough to hold it up. As for other items, I concur with reusing the O2 sensors if they're working fine. The only real problem I had was that I replaced them and a couple of the new ones caused me some grief. If you are keeping them, and don't have to disconnect them, then you likely don't need to worry about the plastic conduit covers that house the front connections. These are esssentially plastic boxes with covers that mount to the side of the head and contain the connectors for the forward O2 sensors, and also house some piping. Given the environment they're in - notably the heat of the engine - they can get brittle and crack when you try and get the tabs to disengage. If you can, heating them up first can make them a little more pliable. If you do have to replace them, make sure to buy both pieces: they changed the size of them every so slightly and new covers will not likely fit on the older "box" portion.

 

After having mine done nearly two years ago, I'll recommend that you not use the plastic wire covers that velocity provides. The heat from the headers is enough to liquify whatever plastic they're made of. I ended up disassembling all of the o2 sensors a few months later and they were all melted together and dripping down onto the headers even where they were inside the plastic boxes under the intake manifold. Replaced the wire sleeves with a reflective adhesive style that I found on Amazon and haven't had any issues yet.

 

Awesome, thank you, that is great advice and exactly the type of thing I’m trying to avoid.

I noticed you’re in Alpharetta, I’m not far from you just over the AL line. Any chance you might want to help and/or supervise? 🙂 Who did you use to install yours? I wouldn’t be opposed to using a shop, but I haven’t found anyone familiar with the car that I trust.

 

Perhaps this has been asked and answered already but I've been told that removing the original manifolds is the more difficult process than fitting the more sleak header.

I had spoken to a gentleman who took on the job and he talked about the idea of cutting up the manifolds to more easily remove. Though certainly not the most elegant solution, but perhaps worth considering, especially considering the limitations of working on the floor.