Does anyone have the dyno graph of the RSC Vantage-C Power Kit (Ecu/Cats/Exhaust)? Tried looking through multiple threads/sites for about 2 hours and couldn't find it. Saw some pics of the RSC Vantage at the 503 Motoring event and the car looked absolutely beautiful. I wrote off the Vantage as option for me after I test drove it twice.

The 1st time I drove a manual coupe and the 2nd a manual roadster. Both times the car's engine response was so lazy and the engine lacked any grunt. As dissapointing as it was, the cars looks and feeling that it gives once you sit inside always brings me back. I am considering an 07/08 Vantage next yr with the RSC Power Kit and SS Remap (need a Sportshift so wife can drive, so no manual box for me).

Anyone have experience with either of the 2? I currently have a Cayman S that has a Capristo exhaust/headers/race cats/ECU/LWFW/other items that I run in the advanced/instructor group at track events and it is an absolute blast. Also have an IS-F and even though its an auto, the 8-speed direct shift box is very impressive, shifts very fast with nice blips on the downshift. The IS-F is also surprisingly fun at the track.

My question is, for SS owners with the SS remap, how are the upgraded shifts? Is there any delay after you flick the paddles (I know there is with the stock SS software)? In the IS-F there isn't any and it shifts as soon as you pull the paddles. Is it as responsive as Lambo's Superleggera E-gear (I've already driven)?

Also for anyone that has done the RSC Powerkit (Ecu,cats,exhaust) how much faster does the car feel. The car in stock form in my opinion is very lethargic and boring to drive. I want a car that will get my pulse going when I get on it but still comfortable to drive daily. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

-Kevin

 

Just sent you some info.

 

I too have asked for this repeatedly and have only gotten a copy of Paramount's dyno. They're all the same parts, but the dyno is weird...it's a graph of power vs. Speed rather than rpms. It would be nice to have an independent dyno done here on a member's car but there doesn't seem to be one.

 

I'm told that RSC has made a conscious decision not to publish dyno graphs and test data due to the variability of results that can occur due to different testing equipment, different climatic conditions, car-to-car variation, etc. Paramount, however, does make explicit power increase claims on their web site, including 35 bhp for the ECU remap and 20 bhp for the sport cats. Assuming its the same reflash and the same components, and assuming what Paramount says is true, you should get the same results from RSC. The link to Paramount:

http://www.paramount-performance.com...V8Vantage.html

 

That sounds like, "ours made 448 hp under special conditions that you will never be able to reproduce in real life, and realistically you'll get about 10 hp max." Seems a bit fishy, no? If it makes 448 hp then it makes 448hp, so they should be able to dyno it to prove it. Would you buy a car that was advertised as making XXX hp if they said they're not willing to prove it? There has to be accountability here so people know what they're getting, otherwise they could claim any amount of horsepower they wanted from a chip and expect people to buy it on good faith.

Frankly that's the reason I ultimately bypassed the chip...because they wouldn't show me proof. You gotta show a real world dyno to back up what you're selling.

 

It's a valid point Tahoe. Not trying to defend RSC, but I have heard that the actual HPs of the stock car can vary significantly from car to car due to it being handmade. I understand the GT-R is the same way. If I had a car that I just assumed started with 380 bhp, but only actually had 360 bhp , and the post-modded car dyno'ed out at around 428 bhp when I was expecting around 448 bhp, I might be a little pissed (and unjustifiably so). Guess the key would be to do before and after dyno pulls.

 

I do agree that there is a lot of variation b/w dynos and some tuners do not like to publish them. I have a ECU tune on my Cayman S and it made a very noticeable difference although other customers have dynoed their car with unimpressive results. For me its not just about the hp/tq numbers but the actual curve. I know that the Vantage has most of its power and torque at the top end. What I wanted to see was if the Powerkit allowed for a flatter torque curve with more power down low. Does anyone have a hp/tq graph of the stock 4.3/4.7 Vantages?

-Kevin

 

My car is in the shop now for installation of K&N filters, RSC ECU remap, and RSC sport cats. In theory, it should give me around a 60 bhp boost, which should theoretically put me at about 440 bhp. I just found a place near me that can dyno the car and I'll consider taking it over there once the mods are done. It's only $65 to do the test, but I must admit that I'm hesitant to do it because I'm not sure I want to know the results (kind of like considering taking an IQ test ). I suppose it could at least give some empirical data to the group though. l'll post the results if/when I work up the cajones to do the dyno.

 

If you could post your impressions post-install that would be great. Mainly if it pulls any/much harder in 2nd gear. Thanks.

-Kevin

 

Sorry for the numerous posts, but I wanted to respond. From my understanding, the mods increase low end power a bit, but the car still performs best at high revs. I also read that it is also that way for the 4.7L (I have a 4.3L). Car and Driver even jokingly refers to the car as the "S4000" because it begins to kick after 4000 rpm. That's just the nature of the car and probably can only be changed with forced induction, or compensated for with rear end gearing (talking to RSC about that now).

 

I know the Sports cats/exhaust will increase top end power/tq at the expense of low end, the same happened in my Cayman S with my Capristo exhaust. However in stock form, there was torque dip at 3500 RPM which was eliminated with my ECU Flash. Wanted to know if the RSC Remap eliminated any torque dips/troughs if any.

-Kevin

 

I don't know the answer to that one, but do I know the power curve is very linear. I haven't seen torque graphs either and would like to also.

 

I have yet to see a dyno graph on an OE 4.3 Vantage that shows 380BHP. I have seen them read both higher (387) and lower (as low as 354). Totally down to the individual car's build quality, mileage, maintenance and fuel quality. As a couple of people have alluded to, we have avoided getting too far embroiled in absolute numbers for that exact reason and instead opted to let the result speak for themselves. "The proof is in the pudding" to borrow a phrase. We have had lots and lots of happy customers and drivers of a very high standard (like Dr. Kaminsky) give great feedback on the results. +9mph top speed down the main straight at Mid-Ohio is a pretty good measure.

I personally race a 1972 Triumph Spitfire and have had this read (don't laugh it's only a 1.3L engine and it only weighs a touch over 700kg) 104BHP on one dyno and 82 on another without any changes to the engine. RSC has always tried to avoid getting too pernickety about numbers since measurements without control are never absolute. We believe that the results speak for themselves and encourage those who are interested to chat with those who have done the mods and get a real-world owner's opinion on performance and value for money.

 

And please expound on how you ever would? You aren't measuring engine hp, just rear wheel power, and you have no idea of the exact drivetrain losses. Anybody who claims to 'know' engine output from a chassis dyno is blowing smoke up your you know what. The ONLY valid use of a chassis dyno is for before and after modification comparisons, and even then you better make the comparisons under the same ambient conditions and in as short of a time span as possible, plus you better not have a butcher's thumb operator who is trying to sell you his wares (products and/or tuning).

Before I ever would invest in products with dubious and/or inflated claims of power enhancement, I damn well would go to an independent dyno shop NOT involved in in my mod process for a baseline. And then a return visit after the mod. And let the chips fall where they may. And I'd make sure the purveyor of said power products knew that I had a pre-mod baseline and was then going to get a post-mod test, before spending my hard earned coin on tuning and/or go fast parts. And if the claims could not be backed up, I'd be back knocking on his door.