Just to further verify the min spec, I've heard the same numbers from another member as well (thanks klittlehale). Also, when I replaced the rotors I measured the stock width: rear 33mm/front 38mm

I do have a question though. I had pads/rotors replaced at 17,900 miles. However, I wish to try and go through a set of pads or two before I replace the rotors again. Although, I do not believe my dealer will do this as they recommend replacing pads/rotors together. Therefore, could just a NTB or similar shop replace the pads alone? Also, are their any tricks in replacing them? As I assume replacing pads might affect bedding issues with the rotors. Furthermore, how often (approx. miles) should pads be replaced?

 

RossL - Hard to say without reallt seeing them. But if there scored bad enough then I would replace them.

kba - You dont always have to do what a dealer says. If you want to change the pads only and as long as there is no issues with the rotors, it wont hurt anything. I have always scuffed the rotors to allow the bed in process to be easier. I have not had to many issues doing this.

 

Ross having raced competitively, logged thousands of laps at our local race tracks ( spr, vir, you name it) and instructed with a ton of orgs out there I can advise the same as I do with many of my students... For novice and intermediate students and skill levels get a good track pad (street plus track is fine and stock rotors are fine too) and nice fresh clean brake fluid (ate blue, motul, etc....) for advanced and solo level drivers a big brake kit, cool air ducting, race only pads and a fluid like castrol srf or endless...and some steel braided lines, big calipers, bigger 2 peice rotors etc...