I just wrapped up a track day and after running about 70 laps the brakes started to sound rough when braking at speeds above 50-60mph. The brakes react fine but sound horrible. I took the car today to a local shop I don't know and they first said the pads/rotors are fine. After explaining in more details they are now telling me all 4 rotors and pads are shot and need replacing. Needless to say it seems sketchy.

My question for the folks here; Could the rotors really be shot after only 70 laps? I followed all the basic rules regarding cooldown, no emergency brake, etc. The brakes work fine but sound problematic. Can these rotors be turned? The mechanic is saying they can't.

2nd question; Any recommendation on a new set? I'm not looking to spend a fortune since I most likely will be selling the car in a year or so.

 

How many miles had the car covered before you went on track?

 

Roughly 10,000 on the clock.

 

This topic has been covered extensively. You can use the search function. Also, see below:

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...olution-2.html

I wrecked my first set of OEM rotors after one track day. Without seeing yours, I wouldn't want to say, but yes, it is possible that they are shot on the front! I doubt the rears are done in, though, unless you were really going nuts...

The front brakes need better cooling, plain and simple. You can fool around with 2 piece rotors and big brake kits, but IMO those are all avoiding the real issue.

 

Thanks spinecho for the search reference. I used it and found little info on longevity overall. I am more concerned with the local mechanic saying everything is fine to you need rotors and brakes on all 4s. I feel the guy is trying to make a few bucks. Unfortunately I won't get to the other shop for another week.

Also, can these rotors be turned? I've done this in the past with other cars but the mechanic said these "these type of rotors can't be turned"

 

Forgot to mention. I just had the car in for service 2 weeks ago and everything checked out fine. Since then I've put the 70ish laps of track time and about a 1,000 mile drive from MD to SC and back.

 

Not sure what would prevent turning. AMFixer or Irish07 would be better able to answer that.

Longevity of the rotors is pretty good with street driving. The issue with track use is uneven pad deposition and surface damage (pitting, scoring), rather than a diffuse loss of metal. IME, this can occur pretty rapidly if you get things hot enough.

Do you have another mechanic or dealer that you trust (or at least can get a second opinion from)? Does your current mechanic have a vested interest in telling you the rotors are shot? Obviously labour charges, but does he sell the parts, too?

 

I'm sure Irish will chime in here but I know that he's told me in the past that there is not a lot of room on the rotors for turning beyond which you get minimal return on investment. Given your plan to sell next year, I'd get a second opinion and then, if necessary, get some OEM rotors and non OEM pads as cheaply as possible (buy from a UK dealer for the former (cheaper), consider Carbtec 1521 or Porterfield R4-S for the latter, both cheaper and better than OEMs by all accounts).

 

The life of rotors is about two pad sets. We do not turn rotors, only replace.
I would ask for the thickness of the rotors. I never suggest rotors unless they are very, very close to min spec or visable damage. There is a min spec of 30mm in the front and 26mm in rear.
I have seen car's where there are heat cracks or spots in them. I very rarely seen the rotors cause noise. Almost always its the pads. Check for cracks or heat spots on the pads as well. Caution using aftermarket pads, as these also can cause noise.

 

Thanks AMFixer, I'll get more info tomorrow!

 

I'm second owner on my car so I can't tell how it was used before I bought it but on my last yearly service about 2 months ago they told me I had only 30% left on brakes. They advised changing rotors and pads. My car has only 5,400 miles..

 

How is that even possible?

 

I had to change pads and rotors at 17000 miles.

Pads I believed, but it seemed quick for rotors. But I was told that replacing rotors at that point is normal. Don't know if its true.

 

I have seen rotors go early with hard drivers. Just depends on the conditions.

 

Just heard back from the mechanic and they said that the brake pads were orange on the front and back which caused scoring on the surface of the rotors. While there is still material left on both they are recommending replacing everything front and back. Seem right?