I'm thinking if there was a short somewhere, it would be around the seat frame, you moved the seat and caused the fuse to blow, I'd diagnose around the seat further..this would most prob require removing the drivers seat completely and checking the wiring with a meter to chassis ground, also with the circuit disconnected I would pass power through it from the battery and try to light up a dual fil bulb..if bulb lights up nice and bright on both circuits..wiring is fine and you would then move onto the suspected seat motor and module.

 

The only other thing I can think of if there is something jammed under the seat. Porsche was good for this. But I'm guessing you looked and didnt not find anything. Hope you can sort this out. Know anybody with good electric diagnosis?

 

Yeah I've looked under there and nothing obvious. I'll report back once the shop gives me a diagnosis. Hoping it's something reasonably simple to fix.

 

Any news?

 

No, unfortunately I've been working long hours and haven't even had time to take it to my mechanic. It's just sitting in the garage with the seat so far forward I can't even get in haha. I have a short friend who is going to take it over for me at some point.

 

Finally got around to getting it fixed. Severed wire in harness under the seat.

 

IIRC I suggested that
Same fault on my first roadster
Glad it is fixed

 

Hey there,
Any idea how to reset my brake indicator light on 2005 DB9? I recently changed out my brake pads and zip tied my worn sensors out of the way but I cannot get my brake indicator light to go away. I've tried the same procedure as to reset the "needs maintenance" light but no luck. Any solution? Thanks

 

I've tried all the resets and nothing has worked. No blown fuses, disconnected battery at least 10 times. Replaced seat fuses just in case I could not see a burned out one. Still nothing, any recommendations? Both seats don't work, driver side went out first then passenger. Thank you all in advance for any advice. I live in South Texas! Nearest dealer is 500 miles away.

 

The second post in this thread refers to misfire factors. The relevant text is below.

Could someone explain what a misfire factor is, what it does, and what the impact of them being wiped are?

Thanks
S

For reference
...by disconnecting the battery, there is a chance your misfire factors are going to be lost in the engines PCM..these settings can only be reset by the dealer(you can do the drive cycle road test but never know if there learnt by the road test or not, only Aston AMDS diagnostic machine can datalog this), so next time your in for a service at the dealer, have them check to verify if the Misfire Factors are stored or not..If there not and they have them saved on file in there diagnostic machine, they can restore them for you hassle free..if there not stored in your car and not in there machine, then a drive cycle will have to be performed by them to relearn them.

 

Allows the PCM to monitor a misfire, if not learnt, the PCM will NOT pick up a misfire(ex: spark plug completely dead). These misfire's have catogories and easy way of explaing what this can cause:
If the misfire count is to fast(ex: something has failed or not functioning correctly), it will cause catalyst damage, catalyst will become below theshold and cause the MIL to come on, damaged part will be a catalyst, also this will not be covered under warranty due to the misfire factors not being learnt....$$$$$

Lets say the car is not misfiring and these factors are NOT learnt, comon issue found on V8 Vantage ASM vehicles is stalling. On deacceleration throttle lifted, the fueling is cut as normal procedure by the PCM. The 36-1 trigger wheel is not learnt so the learning of which cylinder requires igntion can be delayed to 4 cycles. PCM will relate 36-1 to cam trigger and complete ignition cycle, this delay can provoke a stall near crawling to a stop speed(kind of like a VSS disconnected). With the misfire factors learnt, the 36-1 trigger wheel is memorized and knows which cyl requires the ignition cycle to complete, once the throttle is applied after a deacceleration. There's other values requiring the misfire factors but again this is just a good common example.

 

Thanks. Very interesting.

So is the outcome that it is not a great idea for a person who is not an aston dealer or who is not about to go to an aston dealer to disconnect the battery?

Thanks
S

 

Correct, unless there was good reasoning behind it like changing a battery or doing a repair that could damage electrical if batt is not disconnected..in that case, garage can disconnect the battery and factor in the cost of a relearn at the dealer. You can search on here for the drive cycle to perform yourself, but would not know if the drive cycle has been learnt until a dealer scan is performed.

 

Irish - your replies are greatly appreciated. I think I might have the issue, but it's a little different.


My 2005 DB9 coupe - driver side seat. Noticed the move back motion stopped, as well as the seat back tilt doesn't work either way. But, I still have seat forward motion (no back), and front seat tilt down (no up). So I have partial motion.


Do you think this could be the seat memory issue and is it worth a try to do the fix on my own?


Problem sucks since each time I fiddle with the controls I end up just a little closer to the wheel.

 

I have had an issue where I thought the seat adjustment stopped working.

Mine was so stupid….

I pressed the button to move the seats for stowage and then tried the memory button and nothing happened.

I then tried manually doing it with adjustment buttons but nothing happened, I checked the other seat and all was well.

I checked the fuses and no issue here.

At the top of the seats travel the seat only works in the down direction until the seat is far enough down and then you can move back and forward.

Took me a couple of hours to work this out…..