Aston Martin DB7, DB9, DBS, Vantage V8, Vanquish, and Classic models

Vantage 6-speed Gear Oil Grades Explained

  #46  
Old 03-21-2017, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Lve2xlr8
Got it. Order submitted! Do these bottles require a pump? I think I recalled reading somewhere that they have a neck that enables you to pour it into the fill location.
I got this done last week and holy cow the shifts were smooth as hell. We have the exact same car (08 sportshift roadster) so you will notice a nice difference.
 
  #47  
Old 03-21-2017, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by goto35
I got this done last week and holy cow the shifts were smooth as hell. We have the exact same car (08 sportshift roadster) so you will notice a nice difference.
I actually have an 09 6 speed coupe, but glad to hear you're noticing a difference. Did you go with the OEM BOT oil?
 
  #48  
Old 05-04-2017, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Carlhenrik
Great thread - My issue isn't with hard gear shifts (7-speed SportShift 13MY V8S), but my differential makes a whining noise around 60mph at half throttle. High pitched, not very pronounced but you can hear it. I've replaced the oil in my transmission with the OEM oil, didn't help. AM replaced the entire transmission, still didn't help.

Have you guys experienced the same noise? Is it just supposed to be that way?
I've yet to notice any bearing type notices from the 6-speed nor 7-speed, not saying it'll never happen but being your on a 2nd transmission..I'd be thinking it's not trans related.

I've had a few driveshaft front and rear bearing go. Which this also wears out the pilot bearing. Not sure if the pilot wears first and then the shaft bearing or vise versa. So pilot bearing gets replaced along with sending the shaft out for replacement of shaft bearings...btw, this noise actually echos and sounds like it's inside the transmission.

Not saying this is your issue, but what I've had in the past.
 
  #49  
Old 01-22-2019, 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by irish07
I've been having numerous pms and emails about gear oils. If you've searched, there's a large amount of information that is correct and wrong.

So main questions.. "I have a V8V (ASM or Manual same thing), what gear oil do I replace it with"

From the factory, back 2006 the gear box was being filled with Shell 75W90, under testing in cold climates at -25C, the gear boxes were stiff shifting.

To correc the stiff shifting , SB0236 was released and BOT 270A was of the SB to replace the gear fluid. Castrol BOT 270A was used for it's a 70W, lighter fluid for colder weather. The Castrol BOT 270A is now ONLY available from your Aston Martin Dealer..(unless sourced from places like eBay).

The AM GT4 team suggests Castrol BOT 270A or Shell SAE 75W-90. In my area, Shell 75W-90 is hard to find in bulk for a dealer. being we have a Contract with Castrol, are reps advised us the best similar fluid to Castrol 270A and Shell 75W-90 is Castrol SynTec/SynGear 75W90 in Canada, in the USA this SynTec /SynGear is known as Castrol SynTrax 75W90. We have used the SynTec gear fluid in V8V's with no problem other than stiff when cold. This SynTec fluid is a choice we give to the client to reduce the service cost. If the vehicle is never going to be driven on cold morning/nights/fall/spring(below +10C), the client will usually favor in the SynTec..But price isn't a concern and the client doesn't want to deal with any hassle of stiff shifts, BOT 270A which is the correct fluid is used.

"I have a ASM vehicle, so I am not concerned about stiff shifting" ..True, but a missed shift can cost you $17,000-25,000. The ASM was been built and calibrated with 70W fluid in mind..if the fluid is thick/heavey and cold, a miss shift can happen..the ASM can't adapt for the possible stiff fluid like we can in person, after 3 attempts(strong forced hydraulic attempts) the ASM gives up and flags a fault..and now your stuck at the side of the road cycling the key to get the car moving again, only to realise you now have a bent synchro or linkage or ASM shifter unit...aka $$$$$$$$$

What I have found out from members on the board, the Castrol SynTec/SynTrax is not available over the counter..only sold to dealers via Castrol and possible available to the public if overed in bulk(5 Gallon bucket).

There is a Kendall additive available from A.M, this can also be sourced online. It has come to my attention that it is NOT REQUIRED FOR V8V, you can add it if you wish to use a 75W90 gear oil(don't apply to BOT 270A)..but is not required. It is however required if you change the diff fluid in a Automatic DB9 and decide to use a 75W90 gear fluid WITHOUT a LSD additive already mixed in. I have said in the past to use the Kendall additive in V8V's, if you have applied the additive..no worries, no damage, you can sleep at night..if you ever change the fluid again, it's really just a waste to apply for it's been noticed not to make any difference in V8V.


The gear fluid is replaced every 4 years or 64,000km(which ever comes first). So which fluid you decide really depends on you:
1: Do you mind the high cost in fluid, if this is not a question, put the BOT 270A
2:If the BOT 270A is hard for you to get, weither it be due to cost or area, you can use a 75W90 grade oil, but this is entirely your choice. You can try to source the SynTec/SynTrax, but it's all your choice again, if you drive the vehicle in cold and something does get damaged..you made the coice
3:People have used Royal Purple 75W90, the original Shell 75W90, Castrol 75W90..etc ..and have all had no problems. The gearbox in V8V's is used in Lambo's, Ferarri's..etc. They all don't use BOT 270A from Aston Martin. Aston Martin just had a concern to deal with(cold climate shifting), part of this was solved by using Castrol BOT 270A..you could always try sourcing the fluid from Ferarri or Lambo and input your results..I don't have any further input from that point of view


If I notice any faults in information, or if something you think I should add/edit to this information, let me know and I will edit my post.

Here is a picture of BOT 270A from Castrol so you know what your looking for, or trying to match:




"]




*********************************************
Added...

Manual GearBox Fluid for V8 and V12 Vantage, DB9, DBS: Castrol BOT270A

ASM Transmission for V8 Vantage, Vantage S, One-77: Castrol BOT270A

Automatic Gearbox Fluid for DB9, DBS, Rapide, Virage: Shell ATF M-1375.4 (this is Aston Martin 's fluid name for a ZF transmission fluid, other brands are avail from Land Rover/Jaguar that will work if the Shell is not found locally, mainly dealer supplied fluids)

Automatic Differential Fluid for DB9, DBS, Rapide, Virage: Shell Spirax ASX 75W-90 Or: (DO NOT MIX WITH SHELL SPIRAX ASX) Shell SAE 75W-90 plus Kendall additive.
ASM Transmission Hydraulic System for V8 Vantage, Vantage S, One-77: Pentosin CHF 11S





hello there!
Irish07, how it’s possible to get connected with you? I am a new one here. And couldn’t find the way to email you. The guys from Facebook group about vantages, adviced me to ask you.
I will be very appreciate if you could help me with the problem I have after changing the battery.

In in case if you have time to message me back, it will be very kind of you.

sorry for my English
+995514225000 what’sup/ viber / telegram
 
  #50  
Old 01-24-2019, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Ruslan Batumelia


hello there!
Irish07, how it’s possible to get connected with you? I am a new one here. And couldn’t find the way to email you. The guys from Facebook group about vantages, adviced me to ask you.
I will be very appreciate if you could help me with the problem I have after changing the battery.

In in case if you have time to message me back, it will be very kind of you.

sorry for my English
+995514225000 what’sup/ viber / telegram
@Ruslan Batumelia Welcome to the 6speed community. I retired from the dealer life and now I'm part of the team @VelocityAP.

For your concerned issue, it's always best to open a new topic. Often the community has the answer or one of us as already touched the topic and answered in detail..someone might be able to link a reference.

I try to view all threads that haven't been answered, but my time lately has been getting packed at VAP with new projects. If you really need me to me look into an issue, just tag me in the post or feel free to contact me by email or DM.
 
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  #51  
Old 01-24-2019, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Irish07@VelocityAP
@Ruslan Batumelia Welcome to the 6speed community. I retired from the dealer life and now I'm part of the team @VelocityAP.

For your concerned issue, it's always best to open a new topic. Often the community has the answer or one of us as already touched the topic and answered in detail..someone might be able to link a reference.

I try to view all threads that haven't been answered, but my time lately has been getting packed at VAP with new projects. If you really need me to me look into an issue, just tag me in the post or feel free to contact me by email or DM.
thank you so much! The problem is solved at the moment! Good luck!
 
  #52  
Old 05-20-2019, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by irish07
On the V8's..it is very simple. Remove the undertray, Remove the fill port plug on the RH side of the diff (believe its a 22mm bolt)..this allows air to enter which allows fluid to drain faster and easier..carefull some fluid might drip out of fill port

Remove the drain plug bolt(14mm hex) and collect fluid to recycle waste oil

Once at a drip fit back the drain plug (washer can be reused if it's not oval)..

Remove the 8mm's that hold the filter screen in place(on LH back lower section looks like a small flat plastic cap, thats the filter screen) ..once bolts are removed wiggle the screen out but do not pry, it will break, its just a o-ring keeping stuck up...clean screen with brake cleaner and refit..you can replace the seal is you wish, filter is always reused unless it's coming apart..

From the fill port, fill diff with gear oil(see beginning of topic for spec').. till fluid starts to drip out, fit back fill port bolt..

Fit back the undertray and your good to go!!
I replaced the transaxle oil in my 2010 manual 4.7L V8 Vantage last week. It was last done in Dec 2014 by an authorised dealer. Just as I was starting the job and removing the fill port bolt, I had a bit of a nervous moment - quite a lot of oil (maybe 300 mL) came out of the fill port. I was working with an experienced BMW mechanic, and we were looking at each other like, "was that supposed to happen?"

Then when we refilled the transaxle, It took about 4.4L before overflowing from the fill port, the amount Irish mentioned in an earlier post. We left it at that, but weren't sure whether we should've squeezed some more in, before quickly popping the bolt back on.

Has anyone else had a similar experience with a significant amount of oil coming out of the fill port?
 

Last edited by QuantumV8; 05-20-2019 at 07:45 AM.
  #53  
Old 05-21-2019, 05:48 AM
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Maybe last time someone did it they were not on level ground... I did mine last year and it was just to the fill port maybe a few drip came out... Mine is an 09 Vantage with 4.7L and Manual trans
 
  #54  
Old 07-27-2019, 08:49 AM
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Oil for Sportshift transmission's.

Hi, everyone.
I'm recently became owner to a AM Vantage S, MY2015.
I've been reading up on the subject regarding Sportshift oil and the OEM Castrol BOT270A. I found this from Redline. They are stating that this oil exceed the BOT270A requirments. Any thoughts about using it as a replacement?

https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-lv-70w75w

 
  #55  
Old 07-27-2019, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Hookmaster
Hi, everyone.
I'm recently became owner to a AM Vantage S, MY2015.
I've been reading up on the subject regarding Sportshift oil and the OEM Castrol BOT270A. I found this from Redline. They are stating that this oil exceed the BOT270A requirments. Any thoughts about using it as a replacement?

https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-lv-70w75w
So far it seems great, we've been using it for service transaxle oil changes @VelocityAP, mainly because of cost saving and ease of access from local parts store..
 
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  #56  
Old 09-09-2019, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Redpants
The gear oil definitely needs to be changed in the ASM transmission, it was the DIY that I was saying I don't recommend, only because I want to have complete information about the gearbox and everything around it before I start encouraging (explicitly or implicitly) people to do anything to the ASM transmission. Once I've got everything together and posted, I'll clarify what can and can't be done with the ASM gearbox and its maintenance. Until then, I'm hesitant to post anything that could lead to a costly issue.

Here's what I had to say to help clarify it for everyone else:

The main concern is actually the clutch line, which is part of the brake fluid system. If that gets drained, there's no way to refill it without an AMDS (Aston Martin Diagnostic System, which is proprietary). Without any fluid in the clutch line, the car will not shift, and you'll likely need the car shipped to a dealership to have it fixed.

I put the "I don't recommend" comment on the DIY out of an abundance of caution while I gather complete information for that transmission. I need to verify that nothing else regarding the transmission needs an AMDS.

-----

You may be perfectly fine with changing the gear oil itself, and I don't think there are any issues with doing it on the SportShift the same way you do it on the manual transmission. The problem that I run into is honestly one of liability, so until I have complete information about the SportShift, I tend to discourage people from working on it based on my DIY guides. Last thing I need is for something to go wrong because of a difference in the transmissions and for me to be blamed for it!

What we're basically looking at are two systems - the transmission and the brakes. The transmission has gear oil in it, the brakes have brake fluid. However, the two overlap a bit because the brake fluid is also in the clutch line.
  • Since you don't have a clutch pedal in your car, there are solenoids that control the clutch for you. If you drain the fluid from the clutch line, the fluid can't be replaced without an AMDS, so the clutch won't work, so the transmission can't shift.
  • Since you don't have a shifter in your car, there is a system of solenoids that control shifting for you. If anything goes wrong with that system, your transmission either will not shift, or will shift incorrectly (destroying your transmission).
The SportShift transmission is very similar to the manual - it's basically a manual transmission with extra components to replace the clutch pedal and shifter you'd have if you were in a manual car. But some aspects of the transmission are very specific in how they're maintained. So rather than assuming something is safe, I'd rather exercise caution until I know exactly what can and cannot be done to that transmission.

As for the tasks themselves, brake fluid should be done every two years, and gear oil should be done every four years. Even though both affect the transmission, the fluids are independent of each other, so they don't need to be done at the same time. You're fine doing your brake fluid so long as you only drain from the brake calipers and don't touch the clutch bleed line.
@Redpants I've had clients bring up your post, which is mis-informed. The Sportshift Hydraulic System uses CHF11S to operate the shifting controls/solenoids AND the clutch slave cylinder. The sportshift system has it's own separate reservoir filled with CHF11S, it does NOT share the brake fluid reservoir in ASM vehicles(only manual shift vehicles share brake fluid reservoir).

A tech would require an AMDS to bleed the sportshift hydraulic system when replacing a clutch or any other type of hydraulic sportshift repair(there's a way to run through gears to bleed if you can mess around to get it started, but still need an AMDS or similar tool to erase clutch statistics in TCU).

The manual shift vehicles are the only ones that use the brake fluid reservoir to feed the DOT4 fluid to the clutch master cylinder that pumps brake fluid (DOT4) to the slave cylinder at clutch. You do NOT require an AMDS to bleed the manual shift vehicles(there's actually no feature in AMDS to bleed a manual shift clutch line).
 
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  #57  
Old 11-17-2019, 11:02 AM
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Red Line gear oils

I've heard people recommend Red Line MT-LV 70W-75 GL-4 gear oil. I'm wondering what the major differences are between that and Red Line MTL 75W-80 GL-4 (which can be as much as $20 less expensive per gallon) for the manual 6-speed cars.

Does the MT-LV have some additive that the MTL lacks?
 
  #58  
Old 04-19-2021, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Kalepsis
I've heard people recommend Red Line MT-LV 70W-75 GL-4 gear oil. I'm wondering what the major differences are between that and Red Line MTL 75W-80 GL-4 (which can be as much as $20 less expensive per gallon) for the manual 6-speed cars.

Does the MT-LV have some additive that the MTL lacks?
Old post, but I think the additive packages are probably similar. It makes sense that LV is more expensive, because cars that spec 70w-75 oil are exceedingly rare, while 75w-80 is probably the most common OEM manual trans fill (GM/Pennzoil/Valvoline Synchromesh, Honda MTF, Nissan MTF, etc.). My impression is the Graziano box is sort of overkill for the V8V, which is maybe why using a thinner oil is okay.

The actual difference is probably pretty small, but as of April 2021 the prices are nearly identical, so I plan on using MT-LV next time I do gear oil.
 
  #59  
Old 12-02-2022, 01:00 PM
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Bringing back an old thread, I'm about to have a new Velocity AP Twin Plate clutch kit installed. They say to use Amsoil 75W110 with Amsoil Slip-Lock Additive. Has anyone used the 75W110 with Slip-Lock and how does it perform? I previously used MT-LV, but don't want to deviate too far past what's recommended for the new clutch kit.
 
  #60  
Old 12-02-2022, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by amv8ma
Bringing back an old thread, I'm about to have a new Velocity AP Twin Plate clutch kit installed. They say to use Amsoil 75W110 with Amsoil Slip-Lock Additive. Has anyone used the 75W110 with Slip-Lock and how does it perform? I previously used MT-LV, but don't want to deviate too far past what's recommended for the new clutch kit.
The recommendation of 75W110, is only if you experience driveline chatter. If you do not experience any type of chatter, then you are fine to stick with the OEM fluid of BOT 270a and/or an equivalent like Redline MT-LV.
 
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