Would you guys recommend buying warranty? I was looking at some 09 v8vantages but no warranty. Any thoughts? 09+ should all be reliable since the 4.7L engines.

 

I'm certainly not the most experienced here, but I did just purchase an 08, with a warranty. So far I've had o2 sensor, fuel door strut (roadster), and am radio issues. The first 2 were simple, but the radio issue, would have been expensive.

Generally, I think the engines and transmissions are solid, it's the clutches, brakes, and electronics that could cause problems. However, the clutches and brakes aren't likely going to be covered by an extended warranty.

Most will say, buy one with a full service history and get a good pre purchase inspection.

Then maybe put aside the cost of the extended warranty as your own insurance policy, for incidental items. You'll probably have money left over, and be ahead, at the end of what would have been the warranty period

Ymmv

 

Has anyone purchased extended warranty with pre owned? Can you do that? If so, I wonder if its really worth the costs as opposed to just taking a risk and paying for it on your own?

 

This is basically what I did, purchase extended warranty from Aston. Or do you mean from independent company

 

No warranty on my 2007, it was like $ 4,300 to buy it for 1 year. I passed.

 

Was that through a dealership? That is a lot. What does it not include?

 

jyeh -

There are several threads on this topic already, so I won't rehash the pros and cons of purchasing the AM extended warranty (which I think boils down to an individual's risk tolerance).

My own experience with a 2009 MY V8V, however, may be helpful in your assessment:

At the end of the original factory warranty, I opted to purchase the AM extended warranty for the max term you could buy at once (i.e., 2 years with an option to by another 2 years at the conclusion of the initial 2 years). I paid a total of $5,500 for the initial 2 years, plus $500 for a pre-warranty inspection.

Has it been worth it so far? In terms of total dollars, probably not (although very close based on my guess of total repair costs listed below). And if piece of minds counts for anything, then I'd say it was probably worth it.

Here's what I had fixed under the extended warranty:

1. Driver's seat rail assembly, which required a new seat motor. Not sure how much that would have cost outside of the warranty, but I'd say at least $1,500.

2. Door modules on both driver's and passenger's side. Again, not sure how much to the repair outside of warranty, but I'd say at least $500 each side.

3. Replace leaking air-oil-separator. I'd guess $200 outside of warranty.

4. Fix leaking timing cover. This is the most annoying and surprising repair I've come across. I was under the impression that the 4.L engines had this stupid issue fixed, but apparently not. I was hoping that the leaking AOS was simply dripping onto the timing cover. But alas, after getting the AOS switched out, I was to confirm that there is a fresh leak coming from the timing cover itself. Although covered by the extended warranty, I am still going to be out-of-pocket at least $200 I think. But that's only because I refuse to re-use the drained engine oil, coolant and cover bolts (and I was told I might as well change the serpentine belt as well since it will be easily accessible). So without warranty, I'm told this repair runs about $2,500 plus $200 if you want those misc. items I noted above not to be re-used. (My car is currently scheduled to have this repair done in the next week or so).

So, if I do the math correctly and assuming my estimates aren't way off, to-date all of the items I noted above would have cost me about $5,400. Which in the ends means I paid $600 for piece of mind over these last 2 years...and by piece of mind, I mean not being worried of having to do another engine swap.

All that said, my extended warranty is set to expire this September. I have the option to renew for another 2 years through AM, but at a ridiculous price of something like $7,300 the last time I checked. For that price, I'm willing to just go without the warranty and pray that all of the annoyances have been resolved.

Anyways, hope this helps.

 

I am still in the learning stages about Aston Martin, and am considering purchasing a new Vanquish sometime in the future. I am learning from this forum and everyone's comments.

However, I've purchased 3 warranties on my Jags over the past 15 years. In each case, the warranty cost much more than what was repaired. The last warranty I purchased cost around $4300...I think I used it once, and it covered a $47 repair on a wire that had come loose in the dash that controlled the temp for the AC. The other warranties were not used much either.

I have decided with my last purchase (a 2010 Jaguar XKR) that once the factory warranty runs out I will not be buying a warranty. I am sure Aston's quality and attention to detail in manufacturing has improved as much as Jaguar's has over the years. If you are buying a high mileage, older car it might pay off with more money returned that what you spent, but on newer cars it usually doesn't pay off. As the previous poster stated, you're most likely better off putting aside an amount in an account to be used for repairs. You could possibly make a monthly deposit against possible problems, and if you don't use it you have it for other purposes in the future for a down payment on a newer car, modifications, etc.

Good luck on your decision!

 

Jyeh74, I don't have enough posts to pm back, but here are the answers to your questions.

As stated above I was given a choice of 1 yr for 2800 or 2 yrs for 5500. There is no deductible.

A caveat in all this is weather the car is inside 5 years old, determined by its original in service date. It was explained to me that older cars have less items covered by the warranty (legally an extended service contract).

Significantly it does cover you for on track breakdowns if they are official Aston Martin organized events.

What's covered (highlights), "components within the following systems": engine, cooling system/inter coolers, air conditioning, gearbox/transmission, clutch (read the caveat of what's not covered), diff/final drive, wheel bearings, steering, suspension, brakes(again read below), fuel system, electronics, supercharger unit, casings

Components not covered: paint and bodywork, routine service items like tires, brake pads and rotors, parts requiring repair due to normal wear and tear. This last part is where they will not cover the "normal" worn clutch discs.

Like others have said, this all is really a question of piece of mind. On average I'd bet (as are Aston and their insurance company), that not buying the warranty works out better financially. However if you're the one who's car incurs major issues, that warranty can really pay off.

I technically purchased my car from the local dealer, however they brought the car in specifically for me from 1000 + miles away. So, absent being able to lay hands on the car first, I opted for a one year warranty and figured I'd work hard to get everything sorted in that first year. My 3 items would have been billed at $1200, so therefore the peace of mind has cost me about 1600. However, I've only had the car for 2 months so far.

 

I think a lot of the decision making comes down to how much you like to work on your own cars. Astons are not any more complex than your average car for the most part, so if you're capable at doing basic maintenance - and have the time to do so - then you can fix most things on the car. And most Astons are rarely the daily driver, so if it takes a few weeks to get to it, then so be it. Parts can be brutally costly - if they are specific to Aston Martin - many are not, however and can be Ford, Volvo or Jaguar on running gear. If you don't have a good toolbox and skill set to do your own repairs, then a warranty may make sense. Myself, I have a nice Snap-On box at home full of tools and my vehicles don't often go in for repairs - I like working on my cars and bikes. (Now I probably just jinxed myself and the whole fuel injection system will go **** up).

 

unfortunately, i am not the most handy. simple things, but mechnical rotors that break are challenging. does anyone know private shops that service astons out in so cal? orange county? not the newport dealership

 

I paid for a one year warranty on my 2007 V8Vantage back in 2010 when I purchased the car. The car was trouble free whilst under that warranty... so it was a waste of money. I still have the car and it's been trouble free. I still have the original pads and the clutch is still ok. I track it once a year and I have put 21,000 miles on it over the last three years. The car now has 23,000 miles on the odometer.

 

But... I am diligent with its annual service.

 

I also have a 2009 V8V which I bought with about 12K on it and now has 22K. It was under factory warranty, which expired in May. This car was well cared for and well maintained.

My experience is that after you get a car you spend some time and money sorting it out. This is pretty much unavoidable, so before buying a car try to figure out what it will need.

Over the next 12 months I corrected the following items:
1) Rear trunk latch malfunction
2) Valve cover gasket leaks
3) Dash ECU (drop shipped from the UK!) at I think it was $800
4) Misaligned CD player, disks would not eject
5) Sticky side view mirror functionality (still not right)
6) Dashboard leather peeling near windshield (very common)
7) Rear brake pads (not under warranty)
8) Replace battery (not under warranty)
9) replace all four tires (not under warranty)
10) Failed muffler bypass valve pump

My car has now been trouble free.

I don't think there is a way to measure clutch wear without dis-assembly, but I may be wrong. However, that is probably the biggest risk if it has higher miles and the car has not been driven properly. Hard to know.

The approach I would suggest is to have a pre-purchase inspection and make whatever deal needed with the seller to set the car right. Be certain the usual stuff is looked at closely. That will minimize costs during the "sorting out" period.

Then skip the warranty and start driving. They are great cars and actually very reliable so I vote with those who say it is not worth it.

 

I asked lake forest motor sports to do a PPI. Scott Rothermel, the sales rep, said the car is like new and a PPI is not needed. Is he being truthful and trying to actually save me $ ?