Fuse 22 Switch Install
Fuse 22 Switch Install
I know there have been lots of posts already on Fuse 22, but having foundsome tremendous information on this forum I thought I'd return the favor byposting a few things that might be useful for those wanting to add a switch tocontrol when the exhaust vacuum is operating. (If you have a V8 Vantage andyou've not removed Fuse 22 yet, give it a try. Make sure you get the right onethough...on my 2008 it's located where the red circle is in PIC1).
I put my button in the small flap covered ashtray like space, just forwardof the cup-holders (PIC10).
First, to avoid cutting any wires, soldering cables onto blades etc. considerusing this FuseSocket Connector from General Technologies part # ...$8. The spademale terminals needed to be bent so the fuse box lid would fit back on. Iconsidered using an inline fuse holder but opted to simply use spade connectorsdirectly on the fuse....should be fine (PIC8).
I routed the cables pretty much following the battery cable fromthe fuse box back to the battery compartment. You'll probably need to removethe panel that has the trunk RH light in it. Pop out the light lens with asmall flat head (be careful). You'll then see a small nut behind the lens thatneeds to be removed. Apart from that there's only a plastic pylon inserted intoa bracket holding the thing on. After the nut is off you can pull the plasticpylon out easily enough. Once off it will look like PIC2. I circled my cables.
So now you're in the battery compartment. Remove the aluminum bar runningacross the width of this area; not absolutely necessary but probably makes itslightly easier. Next, remove the rear center console section. There are 4, T25torx screws. The easy 2 to get to are under the rubber insert in the cup-holderspace (PIC3). Loosen them. There’ll be a metal plate underneath that which will falloff (you’ll see why in a second) if you completely remove them…no big deal. Theother 2 screws are under a small tray at the rear of the console. It’s a littletricky to get this off but using a hook or small flathead to pry it out (PIC4).Now wiggle and pull the console toward the back of the car. When it’s loose,disconnect the ipod and outlet cables.
In PIC5 you’ll see the front part of the center console. There are a coupleof screws at the rear and where I have circled there are a couple of tabs thatslide under the bottom of the dash. Remove the screws, wiggle, and pull back.Remove all the button cables (not easy to get the cables muddled up but worthmarking the lock/unlock and trunk open buttons). There will might be an extraunused cable there too…ignore it.
At this point it’s very easy to route your cables from the battery locationforward to the front center console area. I used a switch with an LED light for“On”, which requires a ground. One tip here is that the hot side of the fuse 22socket in the fuse box is toward the outside of the car. Knowing this willhelping you wire the switch correctly. I put some tape over the leather at the locationwhere I drilled the hole for the new switch to avoid damage. Before you puteverything back together test it!
Ok, now put everything back together again. The one tip I have here is usedouble-sided tape to temporarily attached the metal bracket that may havefallen off earlier during the rear center console removal. See PIC6 and 7 tosee how it should look.
That’s it…good luck and I hope this helped a little.
I put my button in the small flap covered ashtray like space, just forwardof the cup-holders (PIC10).
First, to avoid cutting any wires, soldering cables onto blades etc. considerusing this FuseSocket Connector from General Technologies part # ...$8. The spademale terminals needed to be bent so the fuse box lid would fit back on. Iconsidered using an inline fuse holder but opted to simply use spade connectorsdirectly on the fuse....should be fine (PIC8).
I routed the cables pretty much following the battery cable fromthe fuse box back to the battery compartment. You'll probably need to removethe panel that has the trunk RH light in it. Pop out the light lens with asmall flat head (be careful). You'll then see a small nut behind the lens thatneeds to be removed. Apart from that there's only a plastic pylon inserted intoa bracket holding the thing on. After the nut is off you can pull the plasticpylon out easily enough. Once off it will look like PIC2. I circled my cables.
So now you're in the battery compartment. Remove the aluminum bar runningacross the width of this area; not absolutely necessary but probably makes itslightly easier. Next, remove the rear center console section. There are 4, T25torx screws. The easy 2 to get to are under the rubber insert in the cup-holderspace (PIC3). Loosen them. There’ll be a metal plate underneath that which will falloff (you’ll see why in a second) if you completely remove them…no big deal. Theother 2 screws are under a small tray at the rear of the console. It’s a littletricky to get this off but using a hook or small flathead to pry it out (PIC4).Now wiggle and pull the console toward the back of the car. When it’s loose,disconnect the ipod and outlet cables.
In PIC5 you’ll see the front part of the center console. There are a coupleof screws at the rear and where I have circled there are a couple of tabs thatslide under the bottom of the dash. Remove the screws, wiggle, and pull back.Remove all the button cables (not easy to get the cables muddled up but worthmarking the lock/unlock and trunk open buttons). There will might be an extraunused cable there too…ignore it.
At this point it’s very easy to route your cables from the battery locationforward to the front center console area. I used a switch with an LED light for“On”, which requires a ground. One tip here is that the hot side of the fuse 22socket in the fuse box is toward the outside of the car. Knowing this willhelping you wire the switch correctly. I put some tape over the leather at the locationwhere I drilled the hole for the new switch to avoid damage. Before you puteverything back together test it!

Ok, now put everything back together again. The one tip I have here is usedouble-sided tape to temporarily attached the metal bracket that may havefallen off earlier during the rear center console removal. See PIC6 and 7 tosee how it should look.
That’s it…good luck and I hope this helped a little.
Last edited by DavidSD; Sep 4, 2013 at 01:02 AM. Reason: fix link
This is what we are all doing on the other side of the pond!
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/t...d%2E&mid=93255
Remote Switch you can have on a key fob
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/t...d%2E&mid=93255
Remote Switch you can have on a key fob
Here's another thread for a wireless switch. Very easy to install, no wires to run, and easily reversible:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...te-switch.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...te-switch.html
Here's another thread for a wireless switch. Very easy to install, no wires to run, and easily reversible:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...te-switch.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...te-switch.html
I installed the Mild-to-Wild switch in my Vette. Simple five minute task.
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. If you decide to add some sort of remote control, be sure to consider both the method I used (switch in the ashtray location) or a wireless key fob approach (links were provided earlier in this thread). Both work...really down to what type of "switch" you want and your comfort level taking stuff apart. Another key difference is that unless you replace something (like the power socket in the ashtray) you'll need to drill a hole. Many don't like doing this because it makes it more difficult to remove when selling the car.
Good luck and enjoy!
Sorry Wa1l1in I don't know....but in all the posts I've read I've not heard anyone mention it wasn't posssible on their year V8V
Stock exhausts all have bypass valves, most aftermarket exhausts don't. The bypass valves are required to meet European "drive by" volume tests that manufacturers have to meet. Aston are made to one spec that meets all worldwide requirements.
I hesitate to "pull" any fuses.... so I did disconnect the vacuum hoses to the bypass valves. I capped the 2 hose ends and both valves with small rubber caps. Took me 10 minutes (Attempt ONLY when exhaust/muffler is COOL). Baffles are now OPEN al the time. Easily reversible in another 10 min.
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