H&R springs install
H&R springs install
Finally got around to installing my H&R springs last week. Here are the results!
Quite an involved process to install with access to the rear upper strut mounts being so difficult to access. Took about 3 hours total for front and rears.
Before and after!
Artie
Quite an involved process to install with access to the rear upper strut mounts being so difficult to access. Took about 3 hours total for front and rears.
Before and after!
Artie
I agree, came down perfectly. I was slightly concerned since I went with a very aggressive width and offset which required spacers. 20 X 9.5" fronts and 20 X 10 rear with a 15mm spacer on 40mm offset wheel.
Ant,
A 13mm ratcheting wrench is what you need for the upper rear mounts. Accessing the rear upper mounts involves removing the plastic fender liners. The rear shocks are a very snug fit once you loosen the A arm upper mount at the outer carrier. Just be careful and they will come out. The fronts are a bit easier to access and the toughest part was getting the inner/upper A arm bolts back in and lined up once everything was back in place. The tie rod ends removed make the egress and ingress of the shock assembly much easier and are simple to remove. Just be sure you leave the nut in place when you loosen it enough to drive the end out, you don't want to mangle the bolt end with a hammer when driving the rod end out. An impact wrench makes drawing the rod ends tight much simpler, but it can be done with standard ratchets and sockets. Make sure you aren't in a hurry and it is a very basic procedure. I have had the car realigned since the springs but the changes were minor. Hope that helps!
Artie
A 13mm ratcheting wrench is what you need for the upper rear mounts. Accessing the rear upper mounts involves removing the plastic fender liners. The rear shocks are a very snug fit once you loosen the A arm upper mount at the outer carrier. Just be careful and they will come out. The fronts are a bit easier to access and the toughest part was getting the inner/upper A arm bolts back in and lined up once everything was back in place. The tie rod ends removed make the egress and ingress of the shock assembly much easier and are simple to remove. Just be sure you leave the nut in place when you loosen it enough to drive the end out, you don't want to mangle the bolt end with a hammer when driving the rod end out. An impact wrench makes drawing the rod ends tight much simpler, but it can be done with standard ratchets and sockets. Make sure you aren't in a hurry and it is a very basic procedure. I have had the car realigned since the springs but the changes were minor. Hope that helps!
Artie
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Great! Get yourself a set of spring compressors to get the old springs off the shock. I used two cargo ratchet straps to compress the springs enough to get them off but have used this method for many years in a jig I have on my work bench. Spring compressors take longer to compress the spring, but are a bit more user friendly to those not familiar with my method! Good luck!
Artie
Artie
Thanks guys! With the width of wheel and offset I have, the springs are perfect! A nice stance and aggressive look without any rubbing or contact on the rough roads around Kansas City.
Not the look for everyone, but it's the look I was going for and as my 8 year old said the other day "Nailed it" Dad!
What brand wheel spacers are you running?
They are a set of spacers I had for my 300ZXTT. I bought them off of ebay. Not sure of the manufacturer, but they are 6061 Billet aluminum. I had a local machine shop machine the inner hub centric side to 68.1mm to mate up to the hub. I paid $100 for 4 spacers. They are 15mm spacers. The 300ZXTT has a hub diameter of 67.1 so it only needed 1mm removed from the inner side. Since I put aftermarket wheels on the car, the hub centric rings for the 300ZX were like $20! I have 2 spare sets of spacers. 25mm and 12mm.
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