60K miles report
#1
60K miles report
Just turned over 60K miles. Here are my findings
1. As stated by several forum members in prior posts, it still turns every journey into an occasion.
2. If you have high flow cats and drive when it is cold, you can not drive like an old man or the cats don't heat up enough and throw a fault.
3. Good to have an OBD.
4. PSS seem to be the right choice for this car.
5. Aston paint is beautiful but delicate.
6. There is a trick to the hard shift from 1st to second in cold weather but it doesn't work every time.
7. The extended storage start procedure provides great peace of mind.
8. The painted aluminum anywhere in the cars interior will scratch or become marred just by looking at it or breathing on it.
9. The cars use of oil depends on how it is driven and Elf from Germany reduces consumption.
9b. $230 oil change w/filter and washers at indie garage.
10. Topping up the washer fluid reservoir is a slow process.
11. Correct alignment is imperative.
12. Prefer worn, but functioning dampers on this car, perhaps should have bought a DB
13. Don't listen to the manual, make sure the filler cap is snug, even if it takes an extra click. (see#3)
14. You can spend a lot of time and effort to get new "better than OEM" rear pads quiet, best to pay aml for pads and put up with the dust and expense, if noisy brakes bother you.
15. The ergonomics, for me, are so good, particularly seat position, view, and ease of use of most frequently used controls, over time, sorta makes it easy to overlook/forgive a few of the interiors shortcomings.
16. If parsimonious, one whiff of clutch while backing will lead you to avoid using reverse in all but the most necessary situations.
16b. It is possible to average 23mpg highway with out difficulty unless you are addicted to the exhaust note.
17. Without doubt, the easiest manual trans car of this kind to drive.
18. AM power upgrade with high flow cats is a noticeable improvement, especially accelerating in third, fourth and fifth above 5k revs, but torque is still pretty short of 4.7.
19. Have had only two other cars I liked more on long rides and both were much longer wheelbase.
20. The electric front window defogger works very well, the mirror defoggers do not work at all.
21. Most of the quibbles reviewers harp on are bogus.
I am not too big on "the Aston Martin Experience" or any other "experience" where emotion is used to ameliorate the thing, however, there is something to be said for the sum of the parts adding up to more than the whole and it is true in this case. I look forward to driving that car all the time.
1. As stated by several forum members in prior posts, it still turns every journey into an occasion.
2. If you have high flow cats and drive when it is cold, you can not drive like an old man or the cats don't heat up enough and throw a fault.
3. Good to have an OBD.
4. PSS seem to be the right choice for this car.
5. Aston paint is beautiful but delicate.
6. There is a trick to the hard shift from 1st to second in cold weather but it doesn't work every time.
7. The extended storage start procedure provides great peace of mind.
8. The painted aluminum anywhere in the cars interior will scratch or become marred just by looking at it or breathing on it.
9. The cars use of oil depends on how it is driven and Elf from Germany reduces consumption.
9b. $230 oil change w/filter and washers at indie garage.
10. Topping up the washer fluid reservoir is a slow process.
11. Correct alignment is imperative.
12. Prefer worn, but functioning dampers on this car, perhaps should have bought a DB
13. Don't listen to the manual, make sure the filler cap is snug, even if it takes an extra click. (see#3)
14. You can spend a lot of time and effort to get new "better than OEM" rear pads quiet, best to pay aml for pads and put up with the dust and expense, if noisy brakes bother you.
15. The ergonomics, for me, are so good, particularly seat position, view, and ease of use of most frequently used controls, over time, sorta makes it easy to overlook/forgive a few of the interiors shortcomings.
16. If parsimonious, one whiff of clutch while backing will lead you to avoid using reverse in all but the most necessary situations.
16b. It is possible to average 23mpg highway with out difficulty unless you are addicted to the exhaust note.
17. Without doubt, the easiest manual trans car of this kind to drive.
18. AM power upgrade with high flow cats is a noticeable improvement, especially accelerating in third, fourth and fifth above 5k revs, but torque is still pretty short of 4.7.
19. Have had only two other cars I liked more on long rides and both were much longer wheelbase.
20. The electric front window defogger works very well, the mirror defoggers do not work at all.
21. Most of the quibbles reviewers harp on are bogus.
I am not too big on "the Aston Martin Experience" or any other "experience" where emotion is used to ameliorate the thing, however, there is something to be said for the sum of the parts adding up to more than the whole and it is true in this case. I look forward to driving that car all the time.
#3
Thanks for sharing this....and congratulations. No doubt these cars are an experience, and you've had more than most of us.
Way to go in not making yours a garage queen!
Way to go in not making yours a garage queen!
Last edited by mfrankel; 01-27-2014 at 01:16 AM.
#4
good post pity you did not run through your costs say per 10K miles? my car is no garage queen i drive every week and love it, love to clean it I have for the first time added 250mm of oil to it after 6000km despite the shape being around 6 years old the car still has great road presence
#6
Follow up 10k miles cost.
Normal Maintenance:
Change oil every 4k miles.
Tires last me 20K Alignment done at changes or when wear or feel dictates
Fluid changes 24 mos.
Yearly inspection and Registration
$3375 inclusive of fuel, not insurance
Repairs:
Crank case oil sep. $175 installed
Thermostat replaced $230 installed
Road rash repair to front and rockers, wheel arch, etc.$150 (done every 20k miles)
I don't follow all the recommended maintenance, as driving habits determine some. I am fussy about oil and changes, as the filter size is smallish and much of my driving is less than 15 miles and start and stop frequently. I drive a manual the way I was taught which is in a way that has produced longevity in that part in my other cars. (Have had Porsches' with over 200k miles and 180k miles on clutches) Also, because of where I live, I use the extended storage start procedure often. I use a multi viscosity oil as I drive year round when conditions permit (NE USA) and use Elf from germany which costs more but seems to work well. Where I live the only way to keep your paint pristine is not to drive. I am not a fan of clear bras as the get marked and look bad. The only real solution IMO is have two, one to drive and one to look at, like the big classic car collectors do. Living close to Manhiem, PA, I know a few folks that address finnish problems with an expertise rarely seen and do so at a reasonable price. An indie garage can save one considerably, but I would be very cautious. Hope this has been helpful.
Normal Maintenance:
Change oil every 4k miles.
Tires last me 20K Alignment done at changes or when wear or feel dictates
Fluid changes 24 mos.
Yearly inspection and Registration
$3375 inclusive of fuel, not insurance
Repairs:
Crank case oil sep. $175 installed
Thermostat replaced $230 installed
Road rash repair to front and rockers, wheel arch, etc.$150 (done every 20k miles)
I don't follow all the recommended maintenance, as driving habits determine some. I am fussy about oil and changes, as the filter size is smallish and much of my driving is less than 15 miles and start and stop frequently. I drive a manual the way I was taught which is in a way that has produced longevity in that part in my other cars. (Have had Porsches' with over 200k miles and 180k miles on clutches) Also, because of where I live, I use the extended storage start procedure often. I use a multi viscosity oil as I drive year round when conditions permit (NE USA) and use Elf from germany which costs more but seems to work well. Where I live the only way to keep your paint pristine is not to drive. I am not a fan of clear bras as the get marked and look bad. The only real solution IMO is have two, one to drive and one to look at, like the big classic car collectors do. Living close to Manhiem, PA, I know a few folks that address finnish problems with an expertise rarely seen and do so at a reasonable price. An indie garage can save one considerably, but I would be very cautious. Hope this has been helpful.
#7
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#8
Push accelerator pedal to the floor and hit the start button. The engine will turn over but not start. Start button is held until oil light extinguishes, then stop, and start as normal. This allows the engine to be lubricated before starting.
#10
Huh, I didn't know about this. Thanks!
#11
Works like a charm, but it's a bit unnerving the first few time you try it
Just make sure the gas pedal is all the way to the floor. Also, I think it only works on a cold start.
Just make sure the gas pedal is all the way to the floor. Also, I think it only works on a cold start.
#12
Thanks, I'll have to try that as soon as the sub zero temps and all the snow and salt go away here in Michigan. I too appreciate driving my car as much as possible I have had mine for about 1.5 years and have put 16000 miles in it. I love every second I can drive it.
#13
Great write-up. Let me ask you about #6 -- I saw there was a sticky thread at Pistonheads about difficulty shifting into 1/2 when cold, but the link was broken. What is the trick you are referring to that works some times?
Also, I may have missed this, but did you go 60K with 1 clutch?
Also, I may have missed this, but did you go 60K with 1 clutch?
#14
It's a Ford thing...it's actually intended for anti-flooding..say engine is flooded with fuel, you would do this to try and dry up the spark plugs
__________________
__________________
Technical Director
Christopher Edgett
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
214 Maple Ave.
Oliver, B.C
Canada V0H 1T9
Office: (1)250-485-5126
Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com
__________________
Technical Director
Christopher Edgett
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
214 Maple Ave.
Oliver, B.C
Canada V0H 1T9
Office: (1)250-485-5126
Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com
#15
Great write-up. Let me ask you about #6 -- I saw there was a sticky thread at Pistonheads about difficulty shifting into 1/2 when cold, but the link was broken. What is the trick you are referring to that works some times?
Also, I may have missed this, but did you go 60K with 1 clutch?
Also, I may have missed this, but did you go 60K with 1 clutch?
But there is a permanent solution for older 4.3L's, trim the shifter surround, replace transmission fluid to a better cold weather oil and also replace the transmission shifter arm for more leverage...all the newer 4.7L's have these mods done from factory
__________________
__________________
Technical Director
Christopher Edgett
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
214 Maple Ave.
Oliver, B.C
Canada V0H 1T9
Office: (1)250-485-5126
Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com
__________________
Technical Director
Christopher Edgett
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
214 Maple Ave.
Oliver, B.C
Canada V0H 1T9
Office: (1)250-485-5126
Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com