All warning lights on after front Wheel Bearings Change?
#1
All warning lights on after front Wheel Bearings Change?
Just had front wheel bearings changed and all the warning lights have come up on the dial. The car seems to be overfueling as well.
I checked on the OBD and erased the single fault which was to do with the fuel pump?
After reseting the lights are still on? Is a hard reset needed and I take it this is disconnecting the battery for several hours?
Connected to this problem is steering wheel wobble which is why I had the bearings changed. I will start a new thread on that one.
So many issues!
I checked on the OBD and erased the single fault which was to do with the fuel pump?
After reseting the lights are still on? Is a hard reset needed and I take it this is disconnecting the battery for several hours?
Connected to this problem is steering wheel wobble which is why I had the bearings changed. I will start a new thread on that one.
So many issues!
#2
Correlation does not equal causality. Your wheel bearing work probably has nothing to do with your warning lights. If I were you, I would get your battery tested as it might be that it is starting to go bad.
#3
Will check it out. Cheers
#4
steering wheel wobble wouldn't be due to wheel bearings unless you could grab a tire and rock it back and forth A LOT! bad wheel bearings manifest themselves as being noisy. (howling). unbalanced wheels and tires make the steering wheel wobble. warning lights coming on is a strange one too..... hmmm , what else changed?
#5
Strange is not the word.
Its like the car is upset with me or something !
I was told by someone that races Astons that wheel bearings can go bad without the associated noise. It takes just the very smallest micro amounts of 'give' on the bearing to cause a vibration.
The wheels have had 3 seperate sets of tyres. One was slightly defective. But only slightly. They are perfectly balanced and the wheels are true and straight and OEM.
I have disconnected the positive and negative terminals on the battery and will leave it overnight. I am hoping this will drain any residual energy in the capacitors in the ECUs that will allow for a full reset where is learns the parameters etc etc.
If the battery comes back with a clean bill of health it could be a dodgy ecu module. I have read that convertible Vantages have roof closing module that causes similiar problems.
Its like the car is upset with me or something !
I was told by someone that races Astons that wheel bearings can go bad without the associated noise. It takes just the very smallest micro amounts of 'give' on the bearing to cause a vibration.
The wheels have had 3 seperate sets of tyres. One was slightly defective. But only slightly. They are perfectly balanced and the wheels are true and straight and OEM.
I have disconnected the positive and negative terminals on the battery and will leave it overnight. I am hoping this will drain any residual energy in the capacitors in the ECUs that will allow for a full reset where is learns the parameters etc etc.
If the battery comes back with a clean bill of health it could be a dodgy ecu module. I have read that convertible Vantages have roof closing module that causes similiar problems.
#6
Left the car unplugged from the Battery on both terminals overnight and still the lights come on.
The radio remembered the stations so maybe I need to disconnect for longer?
I did a basic check on the battery using a trickle charger LED to see if it said the battery was full and it came back negative. So I am getting the breakdown service to check the battery using their professional equipment. Im hoping it is the battery. If not then its off to a specialist for diagnosis.
The radio remembered the stations so maybe I need to disconnect for longer?
I did a basic check on the battery using a trickle charger LED to see if it said the battery was full and it came back negative. So I am getting the breakdown service to check the battery using their professional equipment. Im hoping it is the battery. If not then its off to a specialist for diagnosis.
#7
Left the car unplugged from the Battery on both terminals overnight and still the lights come on.
The radio remembered the stations so maybe I need to disconnect for longer?
I did a basic check on the battery using a trickle charger LED to see if it said the battery was full and it came back negative. So I am getting the breakdown service to check the battery using their professional equipment. Im hoping it is the battery. If not then its off to a specialist for diagnosis.
The radio remembered the stations so maybe I need to disconnect for longer?
I did a basic check on the battery using a trickle charger LED to see if it said the battery was full and it came back negative. So I am getting the breakdown service to check the battery using their professional equipment. Im hoping it is the battery. If not then its off to a specialist for diagnosis.
Battery Make: Odyssey
Make: Aston Martin
Model: V8 Vantage
Engine: 4.3 Liters 4282 CC 261 CID V8
Model #: PC1350
BCI #: 49
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#8
Nice Battery . Almost a shame to hide it away under the rear shelf.
I could be tempted by a lightweight battery and save something like 10 kg in one go !
I could be tempted by a lightweight battery and save something like 10 kg in one go !
Last edited by Vergis; 04-11-2014 at 12:28 PM.
#9
OK just went to see a mechanic that knows his stuff and his analysis is that since the traction control, ABS, DSC lights are all on is a sign that the ABS module is either faulty of that one of the sensors is not working. There are four that connect to all four hubs. I have a feeling that in removing the wheel bearing that the mechanic that did not replace the sensor or damaged the sensor in removal and refitting.
Going to take the car on the ramp tommorow to check it over.
Going to take the car on the ramp tommorow to check it over.
Last edited by Vergis; 04-11-2014 at 12:31 PM.
#12
Checked the sensors are they are plugged in fine. No sign of damage or corrosion.
However I found this thread which suggests that it could be wire fatigue !
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1259924
However I found this thread which suggests that it could be wire fatigue !
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1259924
Last edited by Vergis; 04-12-2014 at 10:56 AM.
#13
SOLVED
The Speed sensor was covered in Copper Compound grease where the bearings were inserted into the hub. The rear of the bearing had bits of grease on it which interfered with the signal. There are no warning lights or anything.
For future reference anyone having this problem should check:
1. Sensor is not dirty
2. Wiring not fatigued
3. Connector block onto sensor is secure
4. Rear of wheel bearing does not have film of oil or grease
Part number for the Speed/ABS Sensor that comes from a Ford costs about $15 each:
1S7T-2B372-AA
1S7T-2B372-AB
1S7T-2B372-AC
1S7T-2B372-AD
FINIS NUMBER:1386268.
The Speed sensor was covered in Copper Compound grease where the bearings were inserted into the hub. The rear of the bearing had bits of grease on it which interfered with the signal. There are no warning lights or anything.
For future reference anyone having this problem should check:
1. Sensor is not dirty
2. Wiring not fatigued
3. Connector block onto sensor is secure
4. Rear of wheel bearing does not have film of oil or grease
Part number for the Speed/ABS Sensor that comes from a Ford costs about $15 each:
1S7T-2B372-AA
1S7T-2B372-AB
1S7T-2B372-AC
1S7T-2B372-AD
FINIS NUMBER:1386268.
Last edited by Vergis; 04-12-2014 at 12:41 PM.
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