Thanks for having my back guys...

Agian if you went into either AM Palm Beach or AM Orlando.. you'd be getting 5w-50. I am thinking dealerships would like to sell you the most expensive option if its out there if cost came into the answer. It seems moot for a couple bucks a quart either way..

I am sure AM PB would be out of biz if they kept blowing up the fleet of Astons on Palm Beach.

Oddly PB Acura also recommended I go a grade lighter synthetic on my NSX of years past, as thats what their factory bulletin told them to do. [Hondas probably can run on anything though]

I have been using Mobil 1 in almost every single high end car since it came out.... and I am actually going to change to Castrol for this car. Just a data point on what I am up to thought process wise. Why an OEM recommends Mobil over Catrol or vice versa? Perhaps thats what they used for all the engine testing? Someone else can chime in (constructively). OEMs seem to swing both ways. I can't imagine an oil company bribing an OEM... haha. Or perhaps its just called creative marketing.

My reading on the topic over the years was that lighter weight oils offer less stress to engine parts... and if within mfg range should be the preferred product to use. That logic overruled the heavier oil is more protective logic. I'll have to dig up the article.

I have had nothing but very good info from my AM PB dealer. Always above and beyond info wise when they have not a dollar to make that day from me. They also have Tech days with Factory reps on site... They seem pretty clued in. Not exactly in the sticks either...

Again, just info I am getting from this end. Ah, good spirited debate!

Someone find me some coffee!

 

Well, that just shows that oil isn't that critical for most general use of the car. its one of the reasons they do have the min oil specs listed. they figure, its unlikely that the oil will be a cause of catastrophic issues. and , we all know how hard these failures are to prove as to be caused by the oil.
There was that one spec ACEA A3 /B3 that has to be met. don't know if mobil 1 meets that, certainly it didn't for GT500 mustangs ive heard. not enough phosphorous or something like that. (that was just the difference between edge (which was the old syntec) and edge professional) .
again, why would you screw around with any oil that was known to be sub par, and go with a minimum value of oil that just barely meets manufacturer specs to save 5 bucks a month!?


I would bet that if you interview 100 other shops, that 99 of them besides this one in florida , uses the 10-60 edge professional TWS or older Sport versions of the 10w60 Castrol. I don't think it will be due because they are not as "smart" as the master mechanic from florida either. trust me, if the oil could cost them HALF as the 10-60 they use now, and it would be safe...... ALL of them would be going that way! Its the most profit margin they make on most any other job in the shop!
46 bucks for 6 quarts for Syntec 5w50 or now called Edge on Amazon is $7.50 a quart. Edge pro cost near double that, with the dealer only making about 15% margin on oil products. (and near the same costs for mobil 1)
The problem with the Castrol oil line up, is that the names are moving targets and there are so many formulations for the same weight oil. I think we should run a racing grade oil with additives , for the same reason they designed the engine to have a dry sump. its a racing inspired engine so it deserves a better than normal oil, don't you think. just because some mechanic thinks the engine wont break with the cheaper oil, doesn't make it the right choice.


Hey, but happy to listen to someone from the AM factory that would validate this "lone" dealer's suggestion that mobil 1 or the 10/50 syntec or Edge would be fine.

 

don't confuse "revenue" with "profit". the dealer makes money with profit, to pay its people and put in the bank. revenue just makes their service numbers look high for the owners.
What does an oil change cost at the dealer? I wonder if they are passing the 7 bucks a quart costs differences on to their customers. Post a full oil change cost if you really want to debate this and ill get one from the nor cal AM dealer. Im sure it will be close , and the dealer, that is taking a chance with min specs on the oil would make a boat load more profit from one of the MOST common shop procedures. $180/hr labor and qty 10 @ $12 quart vs $7 quart. Even if they keep margins the same, they can attract more customers because the oil change in theory will cost $50 less and they make the same money.


The risk is minimal, as I mentioned, oil related failures are pretty rare these days. but, if you are at the track, its a big risk..... HUGE in my opinion. (and if you don't plan on keeping the car longer than 50k miles, the risk goes down as well).

 

One other thought.... Synthetic engine oils 'exact' chemical composition has chagned over the years... Think of the SF/SG ratings evolution, the 'additives', etc. Then you can always dig into the actual polymer chain chemistry of the synthetics development. Typically focusing toward the newer cars. Longer polymer chains vs shorter at what operating temp... but I digress.

Ever notice the AM rep's recommended partnumber for oil says "Specially formulated for classic cars"? Perhaps something in the 'latest' blend of 10W-60 isn't what they intended?
Just another thought to consider.