DIY....Polishing Paint, detailing etc.
Your Pinnacle issue is what I explained above. Soft paints are easy to cut, but a real pain and difficult to polish.
The Zaino Dual action piant cleaner and swirl remover is a mild polish at best. Zaino products also tend to have some fillers in them which after a few washes the marring comes back. Just experience talking there.
Pending what dual action buffer you are using (if not a dual action you are not doing what needs to be done) and pad combinations, products similar to Menzerna FG400 for the cutting phase, and SF4k-4500k polish for the polishing phase. Doing the correct process and pressures, the vehicles paint should come out flawless. I would use this same process for a brand new car, however would use the SF4k with a cutting pad first to get a slightly better cut, before using a no cut application pad with the SF4500 to polish or jewel the paint.
This is why I mentioned some type of school on proper care and detailing process above. With spending the same type of funds, proper products and equipment can be purchased and used correctly to maintain a flawless finish. 99% of the vehicles out there do NOT have this flawless finish. My suggestions to new AM owners is to make the dealers put into writing they will NOT touch the car or wash it, then flatbed it to a specialist to have the paint perfected. Then the cars will be the best they can be. Factory car by far are NOT the best. A proper perfectionist paint correction detailing and coating would take longer than the car took to make. Around 50hrs plus for total perfection. But, that's not something most normal people do. That would included eveythign, interior, wheels, undercarriage, paint, engine etc....... All protected in a coating and/or clear wrap. Just some info, there is plenty of good articles on Detailers Image Ask a Pro. For me this is just therapy, and only try and help friends.
Sheriff
The Zaino Dual action piant cleaner and swirl remover is a mild polish at best. Zaino products also tend to have some fillers in them which after a few washes the marring comes back. Just experience talking there.
Pending what dual action buffer you are using (if not a dual action you are not doing what needs to be done) and pad combinations, products similar to Menzerna FG400 for the cutting phase, and SF4k-4500k polish for the polishing phase. Doing the correct process and pressures, the vehicles paint should come out flawless. I would use this same process for a brand new car, however would use the SF4k with a cutting pad first to get a slightly better cut, before using a no cut application pad with the SF4500 to polish or jewel the paint.
This is why I mentioned some type of school on proper care and detailing process above. With spending the same type of funds, proper products and equipment can be purchased and used correctly to maintain a flawless finish. 99% of the vehicles out there do NOT have this flawless finish. My suggestions to new AM owners is to make the dealers put into writing they will NOT touch the car or wash it, then flatbed it to a specialist to have the paint perfected. Then the cars will be the best they can be. Factory car by far are NOT the best. A proper perfectionist paint correction detailing and coating would take longer than the car took to make. Around 50hrs plus for total perfection. But, that's not something most normal people do. That would included eveythign, interior, wheels, undercarriage, paint, engine etc....... All protected in a coating and/or clear wrap. Just some info, there is plenty of good articles on Detailers Image Ask a Pro. For me this is just therapy, and only try and help friends.
Sheriff
The Z-PC product is not a cutting polish but is also not a mild swirl remover. As I'm sure you know, you never start with an aggressive product if you want your clear coat to last. You may not be familiar with Z-PC as it is not a wax and has no fillers. In fact, Zaino warns that it may leave a haze, indicating that it is abrasive enough that it isn't an ideal finishing polish.
Hmm, I have to disagree with a few statements. The issue isn't a soft paint. The pinnacle products I use had nearly no effect on the surface. Too mild for the hardness of the paint.
The Z-PC product is not a cutting polish but is also not a mild swirl remover. As I'm sure you know, you never start with an aggressive product if you want your clear coat to last. You may not be familiar with Z-PC as it is not a wax and has no fillers. In fact, Zaino warns that it may leave a haze, indicating that it is abrasive enough that it isn't an ideal finishing polish.
The Z-PC product is not a cutting polish but is also not a mild swirl remover. As I'm sure you know, you never start with an aggressive product if you want your clear coat to last. You may not be familiar with Z-PC as it is not a wax and has no fillers. In fact, Zaino warns that it may leave a haze, indicating that it is abrasive enough that it isn't an ideal finishing polish.
Yes, cutting process should not be done all the time and eventually you would eat through the layer of clear. However, pending on how aggressive, to include wet sanding (the factory even does this) most cars can see numerous full corrections in their lifetime. Hitting the clear with a light polish several times a year with a very light cut pad or no cut, will or typically is just fine. If you take care of it, then it does not need that for the most part.
When I first started to use better products than what is purchased at your local store, Zaino was my go to. When I finally worked into the DA Buffer stage, I then went to specific high line products to produce perfection. Most high line products do not cost more than normal, but they are made specifically, rather than something that is an inbetween.
Zaino ZPC is a paint cleaner and mild polish that is water based. While when using a machine it will clean mild swirls, it is not the same as a menzerna SF4000 polish. People get varied results with the Zaino, and if you are happy with the result you get then awesome. If not, then there are plenty of great products that can produce what you want. Paint should be flawless when done. No hazing, no micromarring, just plain perfect clear coat.
My experience was Zaino recommends for the LSP to be applied directly after the ZPC. All other polishes recommend a ISP wipe down to remove all the oils and contaminants before applying the LSP. However the ZPC is water based. Thus in the swirls or marring that is left, minute product is left in those crevices and then the LSP goes on top. This in affect is like a glaze where the clear coat is leveled by a filler. This produces a perfectly smooth surface (that washes out over time) and gives the appearance of perfect paint. Again this is my observation and experience. I do not use anything that is like this any more. I just use specifics for what I am trying to achieve.
Pinnacle products are great. But, like I said AM paint leans towards soft, but the polishing phase is very difficult. Porsches are the harded to work of all cars due to this. Especially Black. Cutting phase is also not like butter. Appropriate pads and "compounds" (hate that word, Leveler is better) will take the clear to the level you need. For me Menzerna FG400 is a go to product for most cars.
Like you said, take the least amount off to level the paint. But different buffers work best with different pads. My Flex 3401 worked well with LC pads, but when I switched to the 5" backing plate and the LC Hybrid pads, the machine totally changed and worked so much better. So combinations of pads, cutting or polishing levels, and machines do make the difference. Every machine has its sweet spot for pads and size.
Products are the same. Some work only on some cars, but exceptional on others. Unfortunately to the normal person, having an inventory of all types is difficult. I leaned by spending much money and trying all types out. I should have just learned by the forums and what others have tried.
AM magic combo--- Rupes with MF cutting pad, AMMONYC Leveler. AMMONCY green Jeweling pads and his Jewel polish or Menzerna SF4500.
I like to cut only as much as I need, but vary by using different pads. Lets say a compound (leveler, MZ FG400) and could use a orange cutting, MF Cutting for really going to it, or could use a White or Yellow light cutting and not go as far.
Polishing---- I do a normal white pad polish, then will do a No cut red pad with the same SF4500. Then will Jewel the paint with a Black pad, lowish speed, Rupes Diamond polish (but that is mixed 50/50 with water and is in a spray bottle) and no pressure. The paint is then flawless.
Coatings------- I love glass coatings such as 22ple, Modesta etc.... It is a must have for Wheels!!!!!!!!!!!. But I do the paint, interior parts, wheel well liners, trim etc.... The increased gloss is a huge plus, but the care and protection is superior to anything out there.
AMMNYC is the perfect youtube learning video. Larry knows his stuff, doesn't push his personal product line, and really wants to teach people. He is also a good person to boot. I have always gone to him for my questions and learning. The only thing I have not discussed with him is Coatings vs Standard protectants. I will have that discussion sometime, just been busy. Used almost all his products, and my favourite is the PLUM iron deposit remover and SPIT, but most of all the one that you use when drying with towels. Cant remember but that is a must have item for most anyone. I dry with a Master Blaster air, but have used the product and love it.
Hope all this helps, Blu2000 I was only trying to help you some.
Sheriff
Hi all, I have a small scratch on rear bumper. Only I would notice but on a Silver car, it’s difficult to hide. You can run a finger nail and it will catch it spots too deep to remove. I hesitate to use touch up paint because it is too small and it make it worse. Some people said you can use compound or polish to reduce the edges of the scratch to make it less noticeable. I found products like Megiuar’s M150 Ultra Cut compound or Meguiar's Scratch X. Not sure if anything could minimize the scratch.
In a similar but not that similar vein, what do you guys do about interior dust? I have an Obsidian leather and Piano Black ski slope in my 06, but good gravy the dust is annoying. I have yet to find a 'dust repellent' furniture polish or similar to defeat this scourge.
Any tips?
Any tips?
In a similar but not that similar vein, what do you guys do about interior dust? I have an Obsidian leather and Piano Black ski slope in my 06, but good gravy the dust is annoying. I have yet to find a 'dust repellent' furniture polish or similar to defeat this scourge.
Any tips?
Any tips?
In a similar but not that similar vein, what do you guys do about interior dust? I have an Obsidian leather and Piano Black ski slope in my 06, but good gravy the dust is annoying. I have yet to find a 'dust repellent' furniture polish or similar to defeat this scourge.
Any tips?
Any tips?
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